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1994 Ranger low on power


RangerShane97

Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2020
Messages
8
City
Wilmington, NC
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Automatic
So I have been fixing up a 1994 Ranger that sat parked for about a decade. I have gone through the thing pretty thoroughly, but it still has a slight miss at idle, hesitates when you first step on the gas, and is really low on power. Occasionally it runs super rich, but other times its fine, and the only code it has thrown is for the Spark Out circuit being open. I really am out of ideas at this point. So far what I have tried is:

-Replaced fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs, gave it fresh 87 octane gas, and even tried 93 octane.
-Replaced the coolant temp, oxygen, and MAF sensors, and verified that the TPS works.
-Eliminated all vacuum leaks I could find, and replaced the intake tube.
-Ran a wiggle test which showed no problems, and also checked the continuity of the Spout circuit (good from ICM to PCM).
-Checked the fuel pressure(~35 psi KOER), and the fuel pressure regulator(~40 psi KOER with the vacuum line off).
-Verified all the spark plugs are firing, and all the injector circuits are working according to a noid light.
-I also pulled the upper intake off, and cleaned it and the lower(didn't pull the lower intake off). Also tightened the lower intake down a bit.

At this point all I can think is an injector issue is causing the hesitation and A/F issues, but I'm not sure about the Spout circuit as I can not find any shorts or breaks anywhere in the circuit. I figured I'm going to have to pull the lower intake and clean/replace injectors, but that still won't give me ignition advance, and without that it is super lazy. Any advice or ideas are greatly appreciated.
 
what motor is it? if 4.0 Maybe the IAC valve (try unplugging it while running). Also possibly coil pack?
 
You have no spark advance for engine load, that's what SPOUT(SPark OUT) code means

On 1994 4.0l the Ignition module should be on FRONT side of rad support, drivers side, you can see it if you look UP under the bumper
EDIS-6 Module with 12 wire connector
The wires run thru the rad support

The PINK wire is the SPOUT wire
Look on the engine side of firewall for the wires and a SPOUT Connector, 2 PINK wires, this wire runs to the computer and allows computer to change spark timing based on engine load, if its disconnected then all you have is RPM base spark advance
It would be like running an older engine without Vacuum Advance, hesitations and low power

And it could be the PINK wire is broken some where, pink wire connects to pin 36 on the computer(PCM)

The 1994 4.0l is distributorless(no distributor) so never needed a SPOUT "connector", it was used to set base spark timing when spark modules were first being used
But connector was still on some wiring harness's, if your connector is missing you just need to cut the holder out and connect the two pink wires together, solder is best but crimp splice is fine, weather proof it
 
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Thanks for the replies, and I forgot to mention it has a 4.0 OHV motor, and the IAC valve is working as far as I know. If I disconnect the IAC valve while it is idling, it immediately starts sputtering and sometimes dies. The coil appears to be working fine, as all cylinders are receiving spark.

As for the Spout circuit, that is whats confusing me the most. The truck still has the shorting bar, and there are no breaks in the wires. I even went so far as to unplug the Ignition Module and the PCM, and check between them with a multimeter. The Spout circuit has perfect continuity between the PCM connector, and the Ignition Module connector. I don't know if maybe I have a faulty Ignition Module, but I don't want to spend $200 for a new one, only for it to not solve my problem.
 
So the PINK wire checked OK from EDIS connector pin 3 to Computer pin 36?

There are only 3 SPOUT codes I think, which one was it?

Used EDIS6 modules are a safe bet, they run $40-$70

Have you cleared the codes and has that SPOUT code come back?
 
So the PINK wire checked OK from EDIS connector pin 3 to Computer pin 36?

There are only 3 SPOUT codes I think, which one was it?

Used EDIS6 modules are a safe bet, they run $40-$70

Have you cleared the codes and has that SPOUT code come back?
Yeah, every inch of the pink wire is perfect, no breaks or high resistance. It is throwing is code 213, I tried clearing the code, and even had my battery die a couple times, the 213 code is always there when I do a KOER test. What are the chances that it is a faulty Ignition Module? Is it possibly a PCM issue or something else?
 
I don't have the specs on the EDIS6 module to see what the Computer is looking for as far as a connection with Key on

With engine running this page shows 7volts should be seen on pink wire: http://www.auto-diagnostics.info/ford_eec_iv
SPOUT signal is FROM the computer

I can't find a test for EDIS-6 pin 3, there should be an OHM test for internal connection just can't find it

But my money would be on the EDIS-6 being the problem

If computer was the problem then there probably wouldn't be a code
213 (R) Ignition SPOUT or SAW circuit open or shorted

So computer is expecting some type of connection/circuit which is missing

And computer didn't use 212 SPOUT circuit fault, meaning there is a circuit its just not doing what its suppose to
 
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I don't have the specs on the EDIS6 module to see what the Computer is looking for as far as a connection with Key on

With engine running this page shows 7volts should be seen on pink wire: http://www.auto-diagnostics.info/ford_eec_iv
SPOUT signal is FROM the computer

I can't find a test for EDIS-6 pin 3, there should be an OHM test for internal connection just can't find it

But my money would be on the EDIS-6 being the problem

If computer was the problem then there probably wouldn't be a code
213 (R) Ignition SPOUT or SAW circuit open or shorted

So computer is expecting some type of connection/circuit which is missing

And computer didn't use 212 SPOUT circuit fault, meaning there is a circuit its just not doing what its suppose to
Thanks for the info. Ill check tomorrow to see if I'm getting 7 volts on the spout circuit. Seeing as how the ICM is probably the issue, I'll look into getting one on payday. The other issue is still my fueling. Some days it runs fine, some days its dead rich. I've been through most of the fuel system, and the only thing really left is injectors. My main questions with that are if I'm missing something simple, and if its possible to verify if they are stuck open/closed without removing them? Also is it possible to rebuild the injectors, or should I just replace with new if they are faulty?
 
Yes, turn key on, hold the gas pedal down all the way and try to start, it should NOT start, or fire at all
This is called "Clear Flooded Engine" routine, all fuel injection computers have this, not a Ford thing

With key on and 0 RPMs, and throttle Wide Open(pedal to the floor) computer will shut off fuel injectors, spark is still on
So you can crank the engine over to "clear a flooded engine"

Any injector leak would cause the engine to fire, if RPMs get up to 400 injectors will restart, or if you release the gas pedal they will restart

Just FYI, I use this every morning to start my high mile 4.0l, I want to get oil circulating before I let it start up


Check the vacuum line on the FPR, if it has gasoline in it then replace FPR, that gas is sucked into intake causing the rich running
Computer should set RICH code if FPR leaks or Fuel injector leaks


How old are the O2 sensors?
They run out of chemicals after 125k miles or so and cause richer running, and wouldn't throw a code because computer thinks the air/fuel mix is correct, the O2s are its only way to tell if the mix was OK
 
Yes, turn key on, hold the gas pedal down all the way and try to start, it should NOT start, or fire at all
This is called "Clear Flooded Engine" routine, all fuel injection computers have this, not a Ford thing

With key on and 0 RPMs, and throttle Wide Open(pedal to the floor) computer will shut off fuel injectors, spark is still on
So you can crank the engine over to "clear a flooded engine"

Any injector leak would cause the engine to fire, if RPMs get up to 400 injectors will restart, or if you release the gas pedal they will restart

Just FYI, I use this every morning to start my high mile 4.0l, I want to get oil circulating before I let it start up


Check the vacuum line on the FPR, if it has gasoline in it then replace FPR, that gas is sucked into intake causing the rich running
Computer should set RICH code if FPR leaks or Fuel injector leaks


How old are the O2 sensors?
They run out of chemicals after 125k miles or so and cause richer running, and wouldn't throw a code because computer thinks the air/fuel mix is correct, the O2s are its only way to tell if the mix was OK
First off thanks for all the help today. The O2 sensors are only about a month old, and the FPR isn't leaking as far as I can tell. I will post an update tomorrow with what I am able to find out.

Edit: So, I got curious, and just tried the flood clear mode, and it didn't fire. I'm almost thinking I might have have an injector stuck closed, and the PCM is thinking its running lean and adding fuel to the other cylinders. Aside from the issues with the Spout circuit, my ignition system is working perfectly, so I think my only other remaining issues are on the fueling side of things.
 
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check compression the 4.0l ohv likes to suck valves because of the soft valve seats in the heads.. if that is the case then it is possible to grind out old seats and insert new hardened seats provided heads are not cracked...
 
Your 1994 is running Batch Fire injection, not sequential
So computer opens 3 injectors on each revolution of the crank, next revolution it opens the other 3
2 on one side and 1 on the opposite side, usually ODDS and EVENS, so 1 3 5, and 2 4 6 alternating
 
So I have a bit of an update. On the Spout circuit I measured the voltage while the engine was running, and got ~0.1V, instead of 7V. I checked the resistance to ground from the shorting bar connector. I got 12k Ohm on the Ignition Module side, and about 0.7k Ohm on the PCM side. I'm not sure what those values should be, but they aren't a dead short either. Also, the fact I have continuity to ground through both, eliminates the possibility that I have an open circuit internally on either the PCM or ICM. At this point I'm not sure what else I can't test without having known good parts to swap in. I think Ill throw it on a obd1 scanner after work and see what info I can gather. Let me know if there is anything specific you would like to know from the scanner.
 
Update: I hooked it up to the scan tool, and the only new code is for bank 1 running lean, however I can tell it is running rich by the smell of the exhaust. The other thing I found out is that I can disconnect the spark plug wires from cylinder 1 and 2, and the idle doesn't change. I double checked and all 6 spark plugs are still firing, and compression is good on all 6 cylinders.
 
Your 1994 is running Batch Fire injection, not sequential
So computer opens 3 injectors on each revolution of the crank, next revolution it opens the other 3
2 on one side and 1 on the opposite side, usually ODDS and EVENS, so 1 3 5, and 2 4 6 alternating
I ended up pulling the injectors. Had 2 that are completely siezed, cylinders 1 and 2. I think the computer saw each bank running lean, and tried to compensate by adding fuel as each bank showed +50% on the short term fuel trims. Im going to throw in 2 new injectors when I get paid, and that should solve the air/fuel mixture issues. Still have no idea about the Spout circuit though.
 

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