Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and wallywonks
Member
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2014
- Messages
- 6
- Vehicle Year
- 1994
- Transmission
- Manual
Hi everyone.
I had an issue develop last Wednesday. I was driving home and the engine light lit up and my idle dropped from 900-1000 to 500rpm. The idle wasnt erratic but you could tell something happened.
The engine would bog down when depressing the fuel pedal. As I let up it would kick a little and allow it to speed up. I got it home. It started and went back to work 1 hr later. (It was my lunch break). The truck still acted same. I left work and it started and got it back home. Thats as far as it gets.
I have a crank no start issue. When you turn ignition to KOEO position the fuel pump turns on and hums. It never shuts off after a few seconds like its supposed to.
I bought an OBD I code reader. I had already tried the paper clip trick to read engine light flashes but it never worked. So I plug the code reader in and follow the directions and no codes. Just 000.. No link to EEC extablishes. I tried grounding the one wire to the body and plug the 6 pin harness in and no codes or link. It is like the EEC is dead.
I tested the EEC and Fuel Pump relays today. I clipped pins 85 and 86 to the battery and used multimeter to test pins 30 and 87a. Both relays click and I get positive continuity on pins 30 and 87a and nothing on 87. So based on my research this means both relays are good. Only issue I have is when I was testing the Ohm reading on pins 85 and 86 on the one it flashed like 147 ohms and then goes to OL but seems to work fine when testing with the car battery method.
I had an issue 18 months ago where the truck acted this way but didnt didnt die. I cleaned the Mass Air Flow sensor with MAF cleaner and the problem went away. It never left me with a No start condition though. I sprayed the MAF sensor again but this time i noticed some staining around where the IAC is bolted to the Intake manifold. I took it off and there looked to be oil all inside it. I unscrewed the solenoid and sprayed the IAC valve some. I also took out the PCV valve which was gunked up pretty good. It was sticking when shook. I cleaned it real good and it rattled when shook. So i put it back in.
Now after I did this It started Engine light went off then back on with same idle issue. I took it up the road a little and it stalled. I restarted it and drove it around the block back to my house. Based on how it performed I thought I fixed the issue enough. So that evening I get in to start the truck and it gives me the Crank no start condition without changing or doing anything to it.
So I read online to test sensors by unplugging and trying to start the truck. First was the MAF sensor. So I unplugged it and the truck started although I had to depress the gas pedal to floor and it wasnt like the usual turn key vroom start. It cranked about 5-7 times before it fired up. Drove it around again. This time it seemed to drive fine. The engine sounded normal so I was thinking the spark plugs are ok. There was just slight power issues and idle due to MAF being unplugged. The next morning I get up to go to work and it gives me Crank no start condition. It never started up again.
Now the funny thing is the fuel gauge is broken. The day I unplugged the MAF sensor I did add a little more than 1 gallon of gas to the tank just in case. I also noticed that this truck seems to be getting some decent blowby as you can see oil trail inside the plastic air housing between air filter and intake. Also with the oil in the IAC. I was wondering if the PCV valve was stuck open and caused enough blowby to coat the inside of the Intake and mess up the fuel injectors. I have not gotten that far to ripping the upper intake off. I have not checked the fuel pressure from the valve on the fuel rail as Advance Auto is out of stock so I'd have to order them online.
I have seen online that people were told if the fuel pump doesnt shut off and you cant read codes that the EEC is bad and I have to replace the engine computer.
I have had a co worker tell me maybe the crank position sensor may be bad. All I know is I cant pull codes and I have bought $120 in DIY testing equipment already.
I was wondering what you guys on here thought about this issue?
Thanks for your input in advance.
Chris Johnson
I had an issue develop last Wednesday. I was driving home and the engine light lit up and my idle dropped from 900-1000 to 500rpm. The idle wasnt erratic but you could tell something happened.
The engine would bog down when depressing the fuel pedal. As I let up it would kick a little and allow it to speed up. I got it home. It started and went back to work 1 hr later. (It was my lunch break). The truck still acted same. I left work and it started and got it back home. Thats as far as it gets.
I have a crank no start issue. When you turn ignition to KOEO position the fuel pump turns on and hums. It never shuts off after a few seconds like its supposed to.
I bought an OBD I code reader. I had already tried the paper clip trick to read engine light flashes but it never worked. So I plug the code reader in and follow the directions and no codes. Just 000.. No link to EEC extablishes. I tried grounding the one wire to the body and plug the 6 pin harness in and no codes or link. It is like the EEC is dead.
I tested the EEC and Fuel Pump relays today. I clipped pins 85 and 86 to the battery and used multimeter to test pins 30 and 87a. Both relays click and I get positive continuity on pins 30 and 87a and nothing on 87. So based on my research this means both relays are good. Only issue I have is when I was testing the Ohm reading on pins 85 and 86 on the one it flashed like 147 ohms and then goes to OL but seems to work fine when testing with the car battery method.
I had an issue 18 months ago where the truck acted this way but didnt didnt die. I cleaned the Mass Air Flow sensor with MAF cleaner and the problem went away. It never left me with a No start condition though. I sprayed the MAF sensor again but this time i noticed some staining around where the IAC is bolted to the Intake manifold. I took it off and there looked to be oil all inside it. I unscrewed the solenoid and sprayed the IAC valve some. I also took out the PCV valve which was gunked up pretty good. It was sticking when shook. I cleaned it real good and it rattled when shook. So i put it back in.
Now after I did this It started Engine light went off then back on with same idle issue. I took it up the road a little and it stalled. I restarted it and drove it around the block back to my house. Based on how it performed I thought I fixed the issue enough. So that evening I get in to start the truck and it gives me the Crank no start condition without changing or doing anything to it.
So I read online to test sensors by unplugging and trying to start the truck. First was the MAF sensor. So I unplugged it and the truck started although I had to depress the gas pedal to floor and it wasnt like the usual turn key vroom start. It cranked about 5-7 times before it fired up. Drove it around again. This time it seemed to drive fine. The engine sounded normal so I was thinking the spark plugs are ok. There was just slight power issues and idle due to MAF being unplugged. The next morning I get up to go to work and it gives me Crank no start condition. It never started up again.
Now the funny thing is the fuel gauge is broken. The day I unplugged the MAF sensor I did add a little more than 1 gallon of gas to the tank just in case. I also noticed that this truck seems to be getting some decent blowby as you can see oil trail inside the plastic air housing between air filter and intake. Also with the oil in the IAC. I was wondering if the PCV valve was stuck open and caused enough blowby to coat the inside of the Intake and mess up the fuel injectors. I have not gotten that far to ripping the upper intake off. I have not checked the fuel pressure from the valve on the fuel rail as Advance Auto is out of stock so I'd have to order them online.
I have seen online that people were told if the fuel pump doesnt shut off and you cant read codes that the EEC is bad and I have to replace the engine computer.
I have had a co worker tell me maybe the crank position sensor may be bad. All I know is I cant pull codes and I have bought $120 in DIY testing equipment already.
I was wondering what you guys on here thought about this issue?
Thanks for your input in advance.
Chris Johnson
