That's what I was wondering, why not drop it out of the way.
I start at the back tube and just start breaking it down and getting it out of the way.
If you live in the city don't leave the cat laying around (I live in the country and stash that away soon as the last bolt comes out)
Work your way to the Y-pipe in the front.
If it's never been off you best have some good ratchets, breaker bars, cheater pipes and legs when necessary.
They can sometimes be tough.
Clean them up going back, and use liberal amounts of Anti-Seize Lube
I've found the two on each side of the engine to be the toughest ones, usually requiring so good extentions to reach a clearing below the engine, with a good breaker bar and an additional extension pipe, one your boots fit well
First step for those is some PB blaster from top side at least a couple hours before you get there, this alone is an important step for old dry bolts
The last ones I broke loose were on my 96 Explorer and I don't believe they'd ever been off before.
I used PB blaster and only a couple hours time used extensions from below and long handle Williams 1/2 ratchet. Had to really push on it but without further extensions it broke loose both 28 year old bolts. I only broke one side to see what it did