1993 Ranger 4.0 XLT 4WD Frame Repair Questions

[ryanthevan]

Hey everyone. This forum has already been so helpful in my quest to restore my new (to me) Ranger. The frame is generally solid, but a ton of flaky rust, so removing the bed this weekend to see what I'm working with. My plan is to hit it with an air chisel, maybe a needler, to get down to the bare frame. From there, we'll see how much patching/repairs will be needed. (Afterwards planning on doing a rust treatment, maybe POR-15 to keep it all healthy)

I am considering doing some welding myself after watching some videos (example:

) but I was wondering if there were any companies that still make cross members or other frame parts for the Gen 2 model. I am in rural Alaska so can't access too many scrapyards etc. I am new to frame repair, and have heard of "frame kits", just not sure if anyone can point me in the right direction in case I find some cross members etc need complete replacement. I cannot see any holes etc from below right now, but I'm guessing there will be plenty of thin spots that will bust through when i hit it with the chisel/needler.

Thanks!

 

[ryanthevan]

I am seeing frame kits for next gen ranger, but not for 1993: https://www.rustbuster.com/collections/98-03-ranger

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I’m not sure how similar the frame shape would be, I’ve never owned a 3rd Gen. But I’ve welded lots of repairs on frames over the years and it’s not that hard. Just take your time and avoid 90* corners on any patches, I clip the corners of my patches on a 45* because of that. Recently built a crossmember for my dad’s truck, used C-channel and 1/8” bar stock. Just have to think a little outside the box.

 

[holyford86]

It may open up some additional options for you to know that the rear section of the frame on a ranger stayed pretty much the same from 83 to 97 other than some very minor cross member differences. I just used a bunch of cross members from a 96 4x2 short bed regular cab to replace rotten ones on my 86 long bed, there were a couple differences as far as holes for rivets on one and not the other but the parts were either functionally identical or could be easily made to work (the 96 cross members even had all the holes needed to bolt my gas tank skid plate back on). The main difference I found was how the front gas tank cross member mounts the tank strap but all it took was the 86 strap flipped around and a 4 inch bolt to reach the cross member. Spring shackles and mounts are the same from 83 to 2011, so repair sections for that area of the frame for 98 to 11 may be usable on an older truck. shock mounts are also identical from 83 to 11, front spring hangers 83 to 97 are the same. other than the radiator support mounts, the cab mounting brackets are also identical from 83 to 97. A big thing to note, if you're cutting out and patching holes, try to use a similar thickness of metal to avoid creating a stress riser which could cause cracking. (1/8 is usually pretty close)

 

[racsan]

gen 3 frame patching? yep, this was on a 94, When I had air-chieseled off the spare tire carrier the frame from the rear spring hangers back looked like cardboard that had seen shotgun fire, it also had a hole where the left rear shock mounted (and that mount broke in two) I just flat-plated it on both sides with silicone goop between the mating surfaces & I had a section on drivers side framerail between front shackle mount & cab mount I flat-plated. (I dont have any pictures of that repair) If you do replace rear shock mounts, drill a small hole for drainage, thats why we have some of these problems, water gets in & cant get out. My passenger side had similar damage but not as bad, I patched it /new shock mount too. Por-15 is a excellent product, they aint kidding about using gloves, took over two weeks to wear off what little bit got on me, prep right and it stays great on steel.

 

[holyford86]

gen 3 frame patching? yep, this was on a 94, When I had air-chieseled off the spare tire carrier the frame from the rear spring hangers back looked like cardboard that had seen shotgun fire, it also had a hole where the left rear shock mounted (and that mount broke in two) I just flat-plated it on both sides with silicone goop between the mating surfaces & I had a section on drivers side framerail between front shackle mount & cab mount I flat-plated. (I dont have any pictures of that repair) If you do replace rear shock mounts, drill a small hole for drainage, thats why we have some of these problems, water gets in & cant get out. My passenger side had similar damage but not as bad, I patched it /new shock mount too. Por-15 is a excellent product, they aint kidding about using gloves, took over two weeks to wear off what little bit got on me, prep right and it stays great on steel.


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That's a good idea with the shock mounts, both sides of mine also rotted the frame behind them

 

[ryanthevan]

Great tips. And awesome pics. Doing my rocker arms and rods first to fix a ticking. Then maybe the lifters if needed. Then frame will be next on my list. Thanks for the advice.