1993 2.3 starts runs then dies only dtc's 116 and 114

[daytona88]

i just bought a 1993 ford ranger 2.3 5peed that overheated and was parked i got it running but it runs for just a bout 30 seconds and the dies the check engine light comes on but the only dtc coded my scanner gives me is a engine coolant temperature higher or lower than expected and a 114 air charge temperature sensor higher or lower than expected runs good no smoke just shuts down

 

[Earl43P]

Welcome to The Ranger Station!

Now that the welcome is out of the way, and since you have a 93, consider sending me your e-mail address in a Private Message (< click on my user name and select "send private message") and I will e-mail you the pages from the EVTM that I have saved in .pdf. It's very useful electrical info (trust me, you want it) straight from Ford.

Next, we have to determine whether you are losing fuel pressure or spark, causing it to die.

Once it starts, runs and dies, will it start right back up?
Describe the length of cranking required for restart and the # of attempts before it restarts. I suspect a fuel problem.

Try this: Turn the key to Run (Check Engine light should come on)
Do not crank over the starter, but wait 3 seconds with it in Run.
Listen for the fuel pump to run during that 3 sec and then shuts off
Turn the key back to Off.
Repeat, Run, 3 sec, Off
Repeat, Run, 3 sec, Off
THEN crank the starter. It should start right up, with very little starter cranking.

Wait for it to die.

Go to the engine fuel rail and find the test port (it looks like a tire stem with a plastic cap). www.youtube.com/watch?v=XbQwNaJhtW8
Take off that cap and depress the valve (like letting air out of a tire) with a small screwdriver tip. Use a rag to catch it because fuel should spray STRONGLY out of that port.

If fuel does NOT spray strongly, you are losing fuel pressure.
Either the fuel pump is not staying on or the fuel filter is clogged or the fuel pickup sock strainer in the tank is clogged.

So, lets assume you did get a strong fuel spray, so pressure is good.
Must be losing spark.
You can verify that by removing one of your (8) spark plug wires. I suggest using one from the LH side of the engine (those do NOT get spark during the cranking over, ONLY when the engine is running). Clamp a spare spark plug to a bright piece of the engine so that it is grounded and attach the spark plug wire to it. Watch its spark the next time you start it up and wait for it to die. You should be able to tell that the spark is diminishing and stopping.

If that is the case, I suspect that your ICM (ignition control module) is bad. Many parts stores can test that part. It also needs to have all its screws installed and be properly grounded along with a light coat of dielectric grease when you reinstall it.


As for the two codes, you can test both of those temp senders, or simply replace them both. Here's links for testing them:

http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=28
http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=29

Note that the engine must have reached somewhat of a normal operating temperature for those two sensors to pass the tests. They may not be bad at all if you tested a dead cold engine and it's cold wherever you are (<50 degrees).

Report back your results.