1990 2.9 Auto to FM-132 Manual swap Questions.

[ChazOne]

Doing auto to Manual swap. I know the Mitsubishi Trans suck according to most people here, but its what I got for free. I also got a rebuild kit with it (syncros, seals, bearings, gaskets).
Anyone here know if the bell housing plate for the auto works? Also will the flex plate bolts work with the flywheel?

Any help is appreciated.

 

[RobbieD]

2.0 or 2.9?

 

[ChazOne]

2.0 or 2.9?

2.9, Thanks for pointing out my typo

 

[RobbieD]

I've done the A4LD to FM132 swap in a 1990 Bronco II. Glad to share any info I may have.

"Bell housing plate", same as separator plate between the engine and trans, right? I've used auto and manual plates without any issue at all. To my knowledge, the only difference is the little door on the auto plate to access the converter nuts.

The crank bolts are different between the auto and manual (pic below; manual left, auto right). I honestly don't know if the auto bolts can be reused in the manual, but I don't think so as the auto bolts lack threads for the auto's crank spacer. I suspect they'll bottom too soon with a flywheel. I used the crank bolts from the manual donor truck for mine.

By chance, did you just buy the rebuild kit? I'm needing to look at rebuilding my FM132, and I haven't checked the rebuild kit availability lately.

 

[ChazOne]

I've done the A4LD to FM132 swap in a 1990 Bronco II. Glad to share any info I may have.

"Bell housing plate", same as separator plate between the engine and trans, right? I've used auto and manual plates without any issue at all. To my knowledge, the only difference is the little door on the auto plate to access the converter nuts.

The crank bolts are different between the auto and manual (pic below; manual left, auto right). I honestly don't know if the auto bolts can be reused in the manual, but I don't think so as the auto bolts lack threads for the auto's crank spacer. I suspect they'll bottom too soon with a flywheel. I used the crank bolts from the manual donor truck for mine.

View attachment 113999

By chance, did you just buy the rebuild kit? I'm needing to look at rebuilding my FM132, and I haven't checked the rebuild kit availability lately.

That's exactly what I needed to know thank you for your help. I didn't have a donor Truck but I found the correct flywheel bolts online... I think HAHA.
Also, Yes I purchased a rebuild kit from link below. The only part it didn't come with was a countershaft bearing, the part is no longer made. Was going to inspect it when I break the Gearbox down and if I had to try and cross reference it against something else.

FM132 Standard Transmission Synchronizer Blocker Ring, Bearing, Gasket And Seal Kit | Compatible With Ford Bronco II, Ranger (2WD)

Welcome to Cobra Transmission, based in Sebring, Florida! We are Mercedes Benz and BMW Transfer Case Specialists, and your best source for transmission parts, both automatic and manual, transfer case parts, transmission tools and differential parts. Get the transmission parts you need for any...

cobratransmission.com

 

[RobbieD]

Thank you for the rebuild kit info!

Even though mine is a B2 and yours is a Ranger, the FM132 swap from A4LD behind a 2.9 will be identical. I took a few pics and have some notes from when I did mine, so any questions you have, hit me up and I'll try to help.

Good luck!

 

[ChazOne]

Thank you for the rebuild kit info!

Even though mine is a B2 and yours is a Ranger, the FM132 swap from A4LD behind a 2.9 will be identical. I took a few pics and have some notes from when I did mine, so any questions you have, hit me up and I'll try to help.

Good luck!

Yessir. I appreciate it

 

[gearfather]

I've done the A4LD to FM132 swap in a 1990 Bronco II. Glad to share any info I may have.

"Bell housing plate", same as separator plate between the engine and trans, right? I've used auto and manual plates without any issue at all. To my knowledge, the only difference is the little door on the auto plate to access the converter nuts.

The crank bolts are different between the auto and manual (pic below; manual left, auto right). I honestly don't know if the auto bolts can be reused in the manual, but I don't think so as the auto bolts lack threads for the auto's crank spacer. I suspect they'll bottom too soon with a flywheel. I used the crank bolts from the manual donor truck for mine.

View attachment 113999

By chance, did you just buy the rebuild kit? I'm needing to look at rebuilding my FM132, and I haven't checked the rebuild kit availability lately.

I have complete reman unit (cheap) i am retired and want this stuff gone. PM sent.

 

[RobbieD]

I have complete reman unit (cheap) i am retired and want this stuff gone. PM sent.

@gearfather, I didn't receive a PM from you. I sent you a PM.

 

[ChazOne]

Thank you for the rebuild kit info!

Even though mine is a B2 and yours is a Ranger, the FM132 swap from A4LD behind a 2.9 will be identical. I took a few pics and have some notes from when I did mine, so any questions you have, hit me up and I'll try to help.

Good luck!

Hey Robbie,
Quick Question. The Pedal bracket has a thin round mounting bracket that bolts to the side of car by fuse panel. How the Eff does one reach that nut that holds it on? The manual pedal assy I have its still on and cut in half. But in my car. I don't see how I can reach it without removing the dashboard. Gauge Cluster is out, Steering colunm is unbolted. Pondered cutting mine, but I have never been a hack and didn't want to start today. LOL If its needed I want it. Thanks in advance.

 

[RobbieD]

Are you trying to swap the pedals as complete assemblies?

When I did mine, it looked to me that I'd have to pull the dash completely to access all of the bolts. I didn't want to do that unless I absolutely had to.

What I did instead was just swap the pedals and leave the original cast aluminum bracket. To do this you have to unbolt and disconnect the main wiring bulkhead connector, and unbolt and shift out of the way the parking brake pedal assembly.

That gives enough room to slide the auto pedal pivot shaft clear of the pedal mounting bracket, and slide in the manual pedal shaft.

I'll see what pics I have.

 

[ChazOne]

Are you trying to swap the pedals as complete assemblies?

When I did mine, it looked to me that I'd have to pull the dash completely to access all of the bolts. I didn't want to do that unless I absolutely had to.

What I did instead was just swap the pedals and leave the original cast aluminum bracket. To do this you have to unbolt and disconnect the main wiring bulkhead connector, and unbolt and shift out of the way the parking brake pedal assembly.

That gives enough room to slide the auto pedal pivot shaft clear of the pedal mounting bracket, and slide in the manual pedal shaft.

I'll see what pics I have.

Thats exactly what I was doing. Initially I Was wondering if the clutch pedal would slide in to replace the pivot shaft,, then I assumed no and proceeded as if I had to remove entire bracket. Man, OK that's great A lot less work than what I was intending to do. Thanks again. I was scratching my head and sweating my ass off in this Florida heat trying to come up with a solution.

 

[RobbieD]

I think that I was too busy cursing, to take a lot of pics.

Here's the manual pedal parts laid out:

And this shows the position and angle that you need to get the manual pivot shaft into the bracket:

There's JUST enough room. You can see the round bulkhead connector firewall hole, the engine side peeking through, and the cab side in the lower left right corner.

I'm pretty damn sure I had to drop the parking brake assembly, but I didn't get that in the pics.

Anyway, that's how I did mine, and I feel for you having to work in this heat.

P.S. - new pedal shaft bushings are readily available at a good parts store; look on the Dorman "Help" rack.

edit- corrected connector reference

 

[ChazOne]

I think that I was too busy cursing, to take a lot of pics.

Here's the manual pedal parts laid out:

View attachment 114255

And this shows the position and angle that you need to get the manual pivot shaft into the bracket:

View attachment 114256

There's JUST enough room. You can see the round bulkhead connector firewall hole, the engine side peeking through, and the cab side in the lower left right corner.

I'm pretty damn sure I had to drop the parking brake assembly, but I didn't get that in the pics.

Anyway, that's how I did mine, and I feel for you having to work in this heat.

P.S. - new pedal shaft bushings are readily available at a good parts store; look on the Dorman "Help" rack.

edit- corrected connector reference

Awesome, That's perfect. The photo with the bushings and shaft laid out is a huge help. Took the donor one apart, not knowing where the thrust washers went back. Huge Help. Thank you

 

[ChazOne]

I think that I was too busy cursing, to take a lot of pics.

Here's the manual pedal parts laid out:

View attachment 114255

And this shows the position and angle that you need to get the manual pivot shaft into the bracket:

View attachment 114256

There's JUST enough room. You can see the round bulkhead connector firewall hole, the engine side peeking through, and the cab side in the lower left right corner.

I'm pretty damn sure I had to drop the parking brake assembly, but I didn't get that in the pics.

Anyway, that's how I did mine, and I feel for you having to work in this heat.

P.S. - new pedal shaft bushings are readily available at a good parts store; look on the Dorman "Help" rack.

edit- corrected connector reference

Hey Robbie,
What Drive Shaft did you use when you swapped?