1988 Thunderbird turbo 2.3 - question about distributor

[borlax]

I found a 1988 Thunderbird turbo 2.3 engine and manual transmission. The engine may need a rebuild but the trans is good. It has 150K on it. I'd like to know if I can use my HEI ignition on it. Maybe the 2.0 or 2.3 Duraspark distributors will work? Will the dizzy gear need to be changed? I'd also like to use the OMC marine intake manifold. I don't know much about how this turbo works, but I know its made for EFI, so maybe a carb wont work? And as far as the transmission goes, will there be any modifications needed, like the driveshaft perhaps? Or does anyone have any experience/ideas on how the stock transmission would work with this setup and the 3.73 gears? I have 215/75/R15 wheels and tires. Thanks for any input

 

[Mark_88]

I think many of your questions boil down to whether the turbo actually works and whether you can make it work.

If it does work and you go turbo FI then the distributors from the 2.0 and 2.3 (non FI) will not work...directly the same...because of the TFI module on the FI dizzy. But many have moved that off the shaft and put it on a heat sink away from the heat. But you can probably buy one like this as needed...if you have the cash...(8 cylinder shown).

http://www.carid.com/1986-ford-must...0171097.html?gclid=CNegzsvsj78CFRQ1MgodmSQAcw

The drive shaft on the T-Bird is probably too short for a Ranger wheel base (extended cab, anyway) but I "believe" the transmission could be used...just matching the spline from the drive shaft to the tail may be needed...but they can be swapped to fit if needed.

If the bottom end of the engine needs rebuilding that would be another "decision" point because the pistons are forged and can be quite expensive to replace...so...either you build it right for the turbo application or you can use just about any 2.3 in good condition and go either FI or carb.

Carbed would be least expensive and has the least amount of wiring to work with. I like the carb setup for that very reason...no sensors, no complicated splicing and matching...and you would need the complete wiring harness and ECU for the turbo...or either buy or find one.

I would think that the main restriction of all of this would be how much $$$$$ you have to spend...it can be very expensive even with all the parts kicking around...not to mention a bit frustrating depending on your skill level...but it is a good learning experience

 

[scotts90ranger]

Carbing a turbo engine is a bad idea, don't do it... leave it FI!

If your Ranger has a M5OD, use it instead of the T5, most people say the T5 is better, I don't think it's worth the hassle as the M5OD is plenty sufficient. Engine mounts and everything are the same, and if you use your stock transmission everything will be in the same place...

 

[borlax]

Thanks for the answers. I definitely want to keep the carbed setup. So nevermind on that engine. If i install a roller cam from a 2.3 or swap the 2.3 head onto my 2.0 will that cause any problems with the "non-interference" aspect of this engine?

 

[Mikel89us]

No, unless you do a massive roller. I would shave .100" off the head. It will make it an interference engine, but its worth it in gains.

 

[Kenneth S]

I use the OMC boat intake on mine with a 350cfm Holley 2bbl, in the carb I'm running a Holley 25 power valve along with Holley 55 main jets. Get 27 mpg on the hwy, 22 in the city with it. No milled head with a stock Ford roller cam/followers, runs plenty good enough for me, and can run cheap 87 octane gas.

 

[borlax]

2.3 head swap

I've heard that the bottom end may be stressed extra if the 2.3 head is put onto a 2.0. I'm not completely sure on what the bottom end exists of. pistons and such? The 2.0 I have has 76000 original miles on it and runs very smooth. It fires right up. should it be able to last up to a head swap for a long time? Maybe some maintenance along the way? I don't want to mess it up and have to rebuild it or something.

 

[Kenneth S]

The only real differences between the Ranger 2.0, and the 2.3 is the bore diameter, and pistons. All the 2.3's (except for the turbo coupe 2.3's) have cast pistons just like a 2.0 does (and no you can't bore your 2.0 block to take 2.3 pistons). The block on the 2.0 is cast with smaller bores (that is the only difference with a 2.0 block), other than that the 2.0 uses the same crankshaft, and connecting rods as a 2.3. The Ranger 2.0, and 2.3 blocks are all the same externally. You will gain more airflow with a 2.3 head (make sure you get the D-port 2.3 head (the intake ports have a flat bottom), but the 2.3 has bigger combustion chambers so you may loose some compression ratio (but you can mill the head some to get it back). I think either Mark_88, or Mikel89us may have done this swap.

 

[borlax]

Okay. I'd rather not have to do any milling on the head. I think my best bet would be to install the 2.3 roller cam onto my 2.0 head. Will I need the 2.3 lifters or 2.0 lifters? I understand I need the cam and followers, and I assume the retainers are the same. Thanks again. I'm trying to sort through what I'd like to do to this engine completely and this is helping a lot.

 

[Mark_88]

Yes, initially I put a 2.3 head on a 2.0 and it worked perfectly.

It isn't so much putting 2.3 head on the 2.0 engine that stresses them...it's finally getting the power you should have had and pushing it to the edge...like I did when I had the head milled, a racing cam, and a fresh rebuild including valve grinding and all that (that cost me $600 when done).

I would just reinforce the idea that you should consider rebuilding anything and everything if you can...the engines last a long time and will give you years of good service if you do that and take care of it...especially be careful about the cooling system...the heads don't like heat at all.

 

[borlax]

Makes sense. Are there any specific areas of care I should keep in mind? just to be sure, do I use the 2.3 lifters or the 2.0 lifters? Also the vacuum advance pot on my distributor is broken. Does anyone know where one can be purchased?

 

[Mark_88]

That is called the Stator...and I believe you can buy them but you may need to buy the entire distributor...if you were close by Canada I would sell you mine...it was purchased about 10 years ago and has only about 50,000 km on it...but the stator is loose for some reason.

I haven't stripped the engine down yet but just listed it for sale...they are getting harder to find and I would rebuild it myself but don't have the time or expertise to do so. I'm selling the long block (head rebuilt recently) but not sure if I cracked the head when the gasket blew...anyway...the wreckers want $300+ for an engine that needs rebuilding so I figured I might as well try to sell mine...hot markets!

 

[Kenneth S]

On the roller cam swap you just need the roller cam, and roller followers from a 1989 - 1994 Ranger (you use your 2.0 lifters, they are the same as the 2.3). The stator can be replaced, but you need to take your distributor apart to change it. I usually just buy a remanufactured distributor if the shaft has a lot of wobble to it.