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1988 ford ranger 2.3 need help


xlt88ranger

Active Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2015
Messages
40
Vehicle Year
1988, 87, 85
Transmission
Manual
So I bought a 88 ford ranger back in January and had ran very well other than the air bypass valve acting up. I was driving back on my property and my truck died without warning. So I bought a new bypass valve and still nothing. Truck will turn over but won't start. It is getting fuel and has a spark. So I am completely lost on what is wrong any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Check the timing belt...they are notorious for breaking and the engine will turn over as if nothing wrong, but it won't start.

The cam gear can be seen through the crack between the hood when open...if that gear is not turning when you crank the engine then the timing belt is broken...
 
Thanks I'm hoping that's all that is wrong with it.
 
Well, I just thought a bit more on this and realized your engine is fuel injected...so there might be a bit more stuff in the way of seeing the cam gear...if so, you might need to either jump the solenoid relay on the side or have someone crank while you look...

I don't like jumping the relay too much because I've actually fried one when the screw driver got welded temporarily to the posts...lol
 
I don't like jumping the relay too much because I've actually fried one when the screw driver got welded temporarily to the posts...lol

Don't be frying doobs when screwing noids...lol
 
You could pull the plastic plug from the cam belt cover and observe the cam timing directly, or if it moves. At TDC, the triangle on the cam sprocket would be at the pointer, around 4:00 o'clock.
tom
 
I haven't had a chance to look at it but if it is the timing belt I wouldn't be surprised I've already gone thru two since January.
 
If you have already replaced two timing belts this year, find out what's wrong. Something isn't right, timing belts should last 10 years if not more.
 
If it is the timing belt again I am going to convert it over to a timing chain and eliminate the problem all together.
 
I don't see why you couldn't convert it to a chain...hypothetically...but most of the belts last way longer than what you've experienced so I suspect a possible issue with either jagged metal edges on one of the gears...or, perhaps, applying pressure to the tension pulley excessively...

The cam gear can be removed fairly easily to inspect and the others would take only a bit more work and a puller. I would pull all three gears and give them a very close inspection for rough spots or even spurs and remove those if present. You can probably do this without even removing the lower two gears...provided you either have a hydraulic lift or don't mind working upside down from a creeper.

The timing belt should have absolutely no excessive pressure applied via the tension pulley...the spring in that system will naturally apply all the tension needed to keep the belt as tight as necessary. If the spring is not functioning or otherwise absent it will cost you far less to replace that than to go through all the expense of modifying the belt into a chain.

My rule of thumb on the amount of tension is to actually restrict it once the belt is pulled tight...by tightening the 10 mm bolt to keep it from pushing further inward or creeping outward should there be any unusual movement in the belt.
 
Turns out that it was not the timing belt the distributor came loose. Thank you everyone for taking the time to help!
 
Ok I still need help I have replaced the air bypass valve, spark plugs, spark plug wires, rotor, rotor cap, sending unit, inline pump, fuel filter, injector wiring harness, and the ecu. Timing is right, getting fuel and still nothing.
 
Check for spark~!

But before you do anything, remove the distributor cap, and have someone crank the engine and watch to see if the distributor moves...if not, you may have broken or lost the pin on the shaft that holds the gear in place...or some such thing...

Had this happen to me and took me a week to figure it out...so if the distributor turns you're ok...then check the spark...you can do that by using a timing gun if you have one...just clamp the end on one of the plug wires and if the timing light lights up you've got spark...maybe not at the plug, but in the wire...

Make sure all the plug boots are snapped on the cap of the plug...and also check inside the wires...I put on a set of plug wires and one or two of them the connector cap was pulled way back and not connecting to the plugs...
 
All of that is working or was went to start working on my truck a little while ago and now absolutely nothing electrical works. Battery is fully charged and I have no blown fuses.
 

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