1985 Ranger - Valve Spring Compression Tool

[swingjunkie]

I've concluded the valve seals in my Ranger must be replaced. I'm going to do this two weeks out but need this special tool to do the job. For specialty tool
T74P-6565-A here is a link

http://*******.com/Special-Valve-Spring-Tool

Cheapest one I could find. I hate to buy it for a one time use. Is there any place you can rent or borrow one?

Thanks

 

[swingjunkie]

Not sure why the URl is not showing up. It is
*******

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Interesting url; the main part is all stars > ******

 

[veefer800canuck]

If the heads are on the truck, you need a tool.

If the heads are off the truck, I made my own. A large C-clamp, and a 1" diameter pipe nipple which I cut a v-shaped chunk out of to use over top of the spring. The cut in the nipple allowed me to remove and reinstall the valve spring keepers.

It worked OK for a one-use type of thing, and I changed all 12 valve seals sucessfully plus cleaned up each valve as I went along.

 

[tomw]

Cylinder head still on the engine, you need a length of rope and a manual transmission. Rotate the crankshaft so the cylinder in question has the piston down, add rope, leaving a tail, through the spark plug hole, and rotate the engine back close to TDC on that piston.
Engage 4th gear, and the engine will stay still while you mess with the seals.
A fitting is available to perform the same function using air pressure to hold the valves closed.
Wear gloves, and if you didn't get it the first time, wear glovs. The edges of everything on the top of the head will cut normal peoples' skin as they are not rounded at all. Wear gloves.
With the head off, you can 'jury rig' a Chevy style valve spring compressor to release the keepers. Set the head on a bench with a chunk of wood under the valve you want to release. Use the tool to compress the spring, and thump it gently with a plastic hammer or mallet to release the keepers. Remove them, and release the compression. Exchange seals, etc. You might take a look at the seats to determine if they need to be cleaned up using compound. Should be crater free and show a clean sealing line.
You can mark the front pulley with chalk to note which pistons are where. 1&4 cycle together as do 2&3. If the chalk is at TDC (noon) then 1&4 are at top. Move the chalk to 6PM and 2&3 will both be at TDC.
tom

 

[XLTsplash]

I have that tool and it works great for replacing the valve seals on a non roller 2.3L with the head still on the engine. I used compressed air to hold the valves up. For my roller cam 97 2.3L I bought T95T-6565-A . Having the correct tools makes the job much easier. I tried a few different universal spring compressors from auto parts stores and none of them worked so I went with the correct Ford tool.

 

[scotts90ranger]

I used the correct tool once but like noted it only worked on the non roller followers, roller were too big for it to work... I've done it several more times with just simple pry bars (the type with the screwdriver type handles) going between the valve spring cap and the main trunk of the camshaft, works just fine. First use a prybar to compress the valve spring to remove the followers from one cylinder at a time (or all of them, whatever). If you have an air compressor find a compression tester with the same fittings as your air compressor, remove the valve core from the compression tester core (VERY important step) then air up the cylinder to hold the valves closed and use two pry bars or a couple screwdrivers to compress the valve spring and get the retainers out of one valve at a time, if you find a stubborn one take a socket that fits over the cap and tap it with a hammer...