1954 F-100 on a 1986 Ranger 4x4

[BlacksmithSteve]

But the rear fenders are still about 2" to far forward when bolted to the running boards.

I am going to flip the rear spring perches to lower the rear, then I might be able to slide the front axle forward without modifying the drive shaft OR maybe I'll re drill the spring Axle locating hole... I'll let you all know.

 

[BlacksmithSteve]

I was going to install aftermarket gauges, but instead could 12V replacements for my F100 factory cluster from Mid-Fifties Ford in Arizona. AWESOME, but how am I going to hook up an old style threaded speedometer cable to the Borg Warner Transfer case? Advice appreciated. I did learn in another forum here that a Dorman 917-614 will be needed, but pictures on the internet show that some kind of cable end that pins in place might also be needed. Not sure...

 

[BlacksmithSteve]

So we got the rear end taken car of this week. First, we flipped the rear shackles. This brought the bed down for a more level stance. Of course, now they protrude a bit above the frame, but no more than the sweep over the Axle. We'll weld a new angle on the bed sides to establish the height of the bed floor about 2" higher than stock. I don't think it will be noticeable.

 

[BlacksmithSteve]

Just noticed pictures are too big. I'll resize and post later.

Once the rear spring rear perches were flipped, we undid the spring plates and moved the Axle forward until we were out of driveshaft play. That ended up being the two inches we needed to meet the factory F100 running boards.

That new alignment forced us to drill new holes in the Ranger frame for the left rear shock.

 

[BlacksmithSteve]

Adsm08 helped me out with finding a speedometer sending unit for the Borg Warner 1350 transfer case that will accept a mechanical cable...BUT now I have to figure out the speedometer cable. The Dorman 917-614 takes a Ford Ranger cable end that locks with a wire clip. The other end will need the old threaded connection for the stock 54 speedometer. I bought a universal cable from Lokar. Both ends are threaded. Unless one of you knows of a better idea, I'm going to cut off the nut and either slot the cable end sleeve or weld a keeper plate for the wire clip to grab. Any advice appreciated.

 

[BlacksmithSteve]

Pictures for first of last three posts

 

[BlacksmithSteve]

Pictures for second of last three posts

 

[BlacksmithSteve]

Picture for the third post - speedometer cable

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Silly me, I would have drilled new holes in the springs to move the axle....Your idea is much simpler and easier on drill bits.

Looking good so far.

 

[bobbywalter]

i would have drilled a offset hole in the perch and plate and used the shorter slip yoke if possible to move the axle 2 inches. taking 2 inches out of the shaft is easy enough if that didnt work.


makes it easier to run 150 springs in my ranger....they hold almost the same weight as my bastards but are cheap to replace and easy to get.




just put the ranger end on the t case side of the cable...pretty easy to do.

 

[BlacksmithSteve]

Are new uncrimped Ranger speedometer cable end available? Search on the internet didn't give me any hits.

 

[bobbywalter]

ranger? 150 ? mustang....they are out there

this is the style you want....


https://www.cjponyparts.com/ron-morris-speedometer-cable-for-efi-conversion-1964-1968/p/SC50/

they have a good page here...


https://www.cjponyparts.com/tech-speedometer-cables/a/156/


anything with a vss can be cut up an used..

you have to molest the end you have or fawk with a few at the junk yard you can split and collar it as well with some hose and clamps.

i have used various methods over the years.....the jeep t case or gm stuff in the ranger requires it along with all of the other crazy shit i have worked on...i used to be able to buy the parts from bobs speedometer but not anymore as they were gone when i went there last to get gears last year......call some speedo shops and you can get new stuff...

 

[BlacksmithSteve]

Thanks! I may have found a speedometer drive that will fit into the Borge Warner transfer case direct instead of the Dorman unit that will couple direct to my cable. Texas Industrial Electric shows something for Ford on the website. I'll call them tomorrow and check back in.

Meanwhile, I've started working on the e-brake. I'm using the three standard Ranger cables - working on hooking them to the stock 1954 handbrake lever. Pictures later.

 

[Jim Oaks]

Cool build!

 

[BlacksmithSteve]

Quick update - the truck runs and drives now, but it's just a mock up. I'll be tearing it all down this winter for body work and paint in the spring. I'll be farming that out. While the body is off, I'll be scraping and painting the frame and drivetrain and will start a wiring harness from scratch.