1954 F-100 on a 1986 Ranger 4x4

[BlacksmithSteve]

Long story, short version: I built a 1947 REO Speedwagon on a 94 Silverado 3/4 ton. Took 3 years. The day before it was to get painted, the body shop got struck by lightning... I lost everything. Insurance company battled me and I settled for much less than I had in it. Pictures later (I need to figure out how....newbie).

So, starting over! Bought a 1954 F-100 out of Akron with 71 Scout 4x4 running gear. Little motor runs like a watch. BUT, after getting it home, found the frame has many, many tiny stress cracks.

Found a 1986 regular cab long bed 4x4 Ranger with a 302V8 swapped in West Virginia. It was to be a mud truck, jacked up 8" at the suspension and 4" body lift - but the truck was already mostly gutted - good for me! Got it home and found the rear end weld- locked... bad for me!

So here's the project: I want to build a daily driver resto-mod! A daily driver in Western PA with road salt, snow, ice, mud, stone chips, the works.

Basic plan:
Bullet-proof the Ranger drive train at original road height.
Keep it simple: automatic, locking hubs and manual shift 4x4.
8.8 rear end and disc brakes would be better.
Still weighing carburetor vs fuel injection on the 302.
Dip the body at MEC in Nancy-Glo, PA
Line-X underside
Paint for durability primarily, show secondary
Interior and exterior have to look original
Recycled hickory barnwood bed
Figure out a true canvas tonneau
VintageAir conditioning
Ok... small departure from stock: Bomber jack distressed leather bench seat from Springfield Ohio

We'll I have lots to do, better get busy.

 

[Captain Ledd]

Oh man, that SUCKS!!! Could we get at least a few pics of the Speedwagon while at the start of the thread?

 

[BlacksmithSteve]

Here's the REO

 

[planeflyer21]

Bummer about that REO! Those kids are going to remember that truck the rest of their lives.

 

[BlacksmithSteve]

So... on to the next project...1954 F-100 on an 86' Ranger. Following pics are what I'm starting with.

 

[BlacksmithSteve]

I'm obviously having some issues with picture orientation - sorry!

 

[Doofy]

Beautiful ol' Ford! Can't wait to follow your build.

 

[BlacksmithSteve]

Been working all winter - getting close to blowing it apart again for paint. Some details:

After stripping the body off the chassis, I had to rework the 302 swap a little. Upgraded the motor mounts mostly. Changed to a mini-starter for exhaust clearance.

Then tackled the suspension. New shocks, bushings everywhere, went to Moog Heavy load front coil springs for the heaving F100 cab.

Then it was time to set the cab using the measurements from the original chassis front wheels to reference points on the cab

 

[BlacksmithSteve]

I was pleased to see the cab line up perfectly. I was able to use the factory Ranger mounting locations on the rear of the cab by eliminating the F100 scissor arms. I just used universal urethane body bushings ala Jeep Wrangler. I boxed over where the bolts dropped through the cab floor.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

subscribed.

 

[BlacksmithSteve]

I was able to use the factory 54 front cab mounts after fabricating and welding outriggers on the ranger frame.

By the way - this was a 114" ranger wheelbase - about 3" longer than the F100 - more about that later.

 

[BlacksmithSteve]

Replaced the whole floor and toeboards because of rust - no clearance problems at all.

I DID have to cut the transmission cover and raise the middle section up about 1/2" to clear the C5 automatic transmission. Maybe I should have swapped for a manual.... oh well.

Lokar shifter worked awesome.

 

[BlacksmithSteve]

I replaced the floor and toeboards purely for the rust - no clearance issues.

I did have to cut the center out of the transmission cover and raise it 1/2" to clear the C5 automatic. Maybe I should have converted to a manual...

The Lokar shifter worked out awesome.

 

[rangerenthiusiast]

Hot damn! Grew up with the band on the radio all the time (whether I wanted it or not), but never saw an actual Speedwagon before!

 

[BlacksmithSteve]

So the Ranger is a 114" wheelbase and the F100 was 112". I tried the F100 bed on for size. The rear fenders have to line up with the running boards - they are off center from the rear wheel by about 2". I could slide the fenders back, but that would leave a gap between them and the rear of the running boards. Also, the frame horns would need to be cut off - about 4" worth.

The bed was rougher than I thought, so I bought a reproduction from Mid-West Early Ford in Springfield, OH. I purposely bought an 8-footer. I was able to cut about 5" out of the sides and re-weld the end cap... and it's a perfect fit for the frame. I'll keep the Ranger receiver hits, although I'm going to have to lower it an inch for the rear bumper.