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removing and installing 5R55E Trans. in 2000 4.0L Ranger


AXH_127

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I'm going to be removing and installing a new 5R55E Automatic Transmission in my 2000 4.0L Ranger. Main reason i'm posting a thread is to ask if anyone has a link or PDF to the WORKSHOP manual for this ranger. I'm trying to find the specific torque values for all the bolts involved in this job.

Also wanted to get some tips and advice from some more experienced mechanics on things to prepare for this job...any useful links to guides I should watch, documents, etc.

Thanks,
Austin
 


Dirtman

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Pm me iI'll send you a PDF copy.
 

RonD

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Applies to ALL automatic trans installs

Seat the torque converter on to the transmission's input shaft FIRST
Put it on the shaft then push it in, rotate it and continue to push it in, it should slide in 2 or 3 more times as the shafts and slots inside the transmission line up
When properly seated the torque converter will be fully inside the bellhousing
If you forget to do this you will break the front pump and you will be doing a full tear down to replace it, so an expensive goof

Bellhousing should slide on flush to engine with no resistance, torque converter can then be slid forward and bolted to the flex plate
Remove spark plugs so you can easily turn the engine to access the flexplate bolts/nuts


Dowel pins
The dowel pins on the engine are there to line up the crank's center line to the transmission's input shaft center line.
Make sure they are in good condition and bell housing holes are not worn out.
If these are not in good condition the flexplate can break and/or transmission front seal can leak because of an alignment wobble
 
Last edited:
adsm08

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To follow up on what Ron said, an oddity of the 5R series transmissions is that when the torque converter is in the whole way it will rub the pump/bell bolts. When it clunks in for the last time the converter will hit those bolts and make a clunky rubbing kind of noise. It will sound like you messed something up, but it is a good thing.
 
Transman304

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Just to add to the tips, be sure to flush the cooler and lines before installing new transmission. There is a product called Kooler Kleen that is used as a cooler and line flush.
 

AXH_127

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Quick question if anyone knows also, but the issue I'm having is the "Drive" and "Reverse" gear's won't engage however when put into "first" or "second" the transmission does engage.

I did some quick research and read from a few places it might be a broken band but I am new transmission rebuilds and might just end up replacing it with one already rebuilt, depends on what I find.

Anything common that causes this? Simple fix or should I just swap transmission's entirely...

EDIT: Thanks for the replies
 
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adsm08

adsm08

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AXH_127 said:
Quick question if anyone knows also, but the issue I'm having is the "Drive" and "Reverse" gear's won't engage however when put into "first" or "second" the transmission does engage.

I did some quick research and read from a few places it might be a broken band but I am new transmission rebuilds and might just end up replacing it with one already rebuilt, depends on what I find.

Anything common that causes this? Simple fix or should I just swap transmission's entirely...

EDIT: Thanks for the replies
Click to expand...
I have found the leading cause of automatic transmission problems of any sort to be having an automatic transmission.
 
Transman304

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If you can’t fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem
Very common problem with this unit is a OD sprag failure. Will cause the symptoms you describe. Not going to be a band.
 

AXH_127

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the bolts going to the exhaust manifold are rusted on good. If I can't get them off is it fine to cut the exhaust off? If so where would be the best place so I can weld/band it back together
 
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