87 fuel Canister, figuring out if it has a filter

dccarpenter · Jan 19, 2019

I am trying to track down some backfiring and low power on hills/throttle issues and starting with fuel and electrical systems. I seem to smell some gas at the tailpipe and in the filter area after hard driving, i could somewhat smell gas around the canister this evening (did not drive it today) and was not getting any gas smell off the tank itself.

I have both an inline high pressure filter and the canister on my 1987 single gas tank 2.9l ranger. I'm not sure if my canister has a filter in it or not, parts sites list both filters available for my model year. Is there anyway to determine if my canister has a filter? It looks to be about 3" overall, it is not the very short hockey puck sized one I see in some photos online. I saw a photo at some point in my googling showing the 2 types of canisters but I can't seem to find it again.

If my canister does not have a filter is it still possible it could be clogged inside at all?

My issues seem to have started after running a few batches of injector cleaner (probably overdosed on them too by accident). Wanted to check the fuel filters first before I tore into the injectors.

This Ranger is my daily driver at the moment so taking it off the road for injector cleaning is going to be tough. I may have to suck it up and pay a Valvoline type place for mechanical injector cleaning.

adsm08 · Jan 19, 2019

Backfiring is a timing issue, or a firing order issue. Assuming that you have not messed with your plug wires recently you need to check your timing.

On all three of the 87s I have owned that piece did not come apart or have a replaceable filter inside. I think that 87 may have been the year they stopped doing that. The 87s I had all had a screen in there, that can plug up, but it isn't common.

If you suspect the fuel module I'd just replace it. I think Napa can still get them.

dccarpenter · Jan 19, 2019

Thanks for the reply it is appreciated.

To be more specific about the problem it only really occurs at times of high throttle, specifically between 2k and 3k rpm during hilly highway rides.

If I stay out of overdrive and keep the RPM up around 3000 it will be fairly happy. These are mild hills or inclines by the way that it could previously handle in overdrive, it has been a noticable decrease in power recently.

For the sake of being thorough I will try and find that housing on Napa's site and get it ordered, I have a new high pressure filter to put in as well. I'll pick up another timing light (misplaced mine) and see what I can do about timing the 2.9 as well

alwaysFlOoReD · Jan 19, 2019

To rule out fuel pressure, buy, rent, or borrow a high pressure fuel pressure gauge and hook it to the schrader valve on the fuel rail. You will probably have to take off your hood in order to secure the gauge so you can see it while driving. See what happens to pressure....

dccarpenter · Jan 20, 2019

As a brief update I changed the high pressure fuel filter today, I also opened that canister. it did not have a screen...I either damaged the o ring pulling it out or it was already going bad but leaked when i put it back together.

So a call to my neighbor for a ride and an Autozone trip later and it is temporarily deleted with two pieces of metal line in its place until I can source the gasket (hopefully it is the same size one that comes with the filter kit available for the truck for the canister..).

Going to pickup a high pressure gauge and timing light at Harbor Freight along on my way home from work tomorrow and test both of those next.

The Fuel pressure regulator had no fuel in the vacuum hose and it looks very new as if it was replaced recently( I've only had the truck a year). I've replaced Idle Air, throttle sensor, and egr myself since owning.

Fuel filter was not the culprit so the hunt moves on but planning to keep at it. At the least I now know the fuel filter is changed and the reservoir was not clogged. Appreciate everyone's help so far.

Paulos · Jan 20, 2019

The o-ring for the fuel reservoir should be the same as the one that comes with the filter. In fact, it probably had a filter originally. I got tired of having to change those filters in my '87, and read somewhere that they really weren't necessary, and the later models did away with them. This is the replacement part that I bought for mine, and it is sealed (no filter or o-ring). It's a direct replacement. Expensive at $50, but I'll never have to deal with it again.

I hope you find something simple and cheap that is the problem. I just solved a year long problem, and I threw every part at it except the ones it needed; injectors. These older Rangers don't do too good on ethanol, especially if the truck sits for any length of time. I read that the ethanol attracts moisture, which causes corrosion after time. And then dumping fuel injector cleaners (like I did) breaks loose the corrosion and clogs the injectors - if they weren't already. I replaced both pumps, fuel reservoir, the filter after the high pressure pump, the FPR, acid washed the fuel rail, and then a few days ago put in new Accel 15lb injectors. Only after changing the injectors did all the issues go away (but I have no doubt that servicing the complete fuel system helped). Some of the old injectors worked better than others, which would cause a rich/lean condition that would make the O2 sensor act erratically.

I agree with adsm08 regarding the backfiring; it sounds like timing or ignition. But, it is possible that an injector that is stuck open can result in unburned fuel passing into the exhaust and detonating there also.

dccarpenter · Jan 20, 2019

I'm wondering if I should just bite the bullet and buy injectors. If verifying timing and pressure doesn't clear things up I probably will.

I know my vehicle did a little sitting before I got it and I dumped in injector cleaners just like you. Ever since I ran them I've had problems.

How was installing the new injectors? Did the fuel line to the rail come out easily enough? I've had problems getting the old Ford fuel lines to disconnect , on my old '86 f150 I was having zero luck with the disconnect tool to get them apart.

I saw these injectors on PartGeek, my engine has either 218,000 or 318,000 miles. The less money I have to put into it the better as its longevity is in question..several oil leaks, some oil consumption between oil changes. Maybe worth doing for only $90, surely not as nice as your Accel ones.

https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/AC/5513-02543622.html?utm_content=TTC&utm_term=1986-1994+Ford+Ranger+Fuel+Injector+Kit+Replacement+86-94+Ford+Fuel+Injector+Kit+1992+1990&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIn4K1jOb93wIV0eDICh0ExQucEAQYASABEgJr-fD_BwE&ad=218792243757

Paulos · Jan 20, 2019

Have you pulled codes from the ECM? Codes, fuel pressure with engine off and running, and compression is where I would start, with fuel injectors last. But looking back at my experience with my '87 I would guess that the injectors are the thing most often overlooked; just my honest opinion.

The problem with taking your truck in to Valvoline for an injector cleaning, is if they are clogged due to corrosion in the fuel system, the micro-filters in the inlet side of the injectors may be clogged with the junk that was released into the system with the fuel injector cleaners you used. You would have to ask them if their treatment will work in that case.

If you changed the injectors, I would recommend that you at least flush the inside of the fuel rail with Berryman B12 Chemtool carb cleaner #0117. I could only find it at AutoZone, and it has to be #0117, not #0116 (different ingredients). I used this to clean my old injectors and it did a pretty good job, but there was just a hint of a miss, so I bought the Accels. I got this kit and this tester to clean them (I've spent a LOT of money on this old truck the last year).

As far as the fuel rail spring lock connectors are concerned, spray some PB Blaster or equivalent in the spring area and let it soak. After that it helps to take a couple pairs of channel locks to gently rotate the two halves of the connector in opposite directions so it will loosen up. After sitting in one position for 30 years they tend to not want to twist or brake loose when you use the tool on them.

dccarpenter · Jan 21, 2019

I bought timing light today and braved the 10 degree weather along a windy road for half an hour trying to time the truck but my decal is long gone from the pulley. Any suggestions for how to find timing marks that I can reference to find 10' ? I can see the pointer but when I aim the timing light at it there is nothing I can really make out on the pulley. I had some lacquer thinner in my truck and wiped the area with a napkin and that just removed some oil residue and showed me bare metal.

I've always timed my old carburated trucks with a vacuum gauge so not at all proficient with a timing light. I bought a $50 induction one from Autozone, the digital was $100 and they don't rent them there.

adsm08 · Jan 21, 2019

You need to crawl under and find the marks, clean them up well, then use some sort of paint, preferably white, to mark the line you want.

dccarpenter · Jan 31, 2019

I wanted to update for informational purposes.

Looks like blown headgasket is my issue. I was driving it home the day after the attempt at reading the timing (I never got that sorted completely) and noticed the temp reading was at 50% and it normally reads pretty cool. I drove it back keeping temp low as I could and coolant was low. I'd been getting small white smoke but after this getting more significant white smoke at tailpipe.

Filled up the coolant and took it for a short drive and engine was making more pronounced tick(or knock of sorts I guess?, not horrible sounding just loud tick as if it was low on oil even though it wasn't). Still drove the same. Once the loud tick started 3 miles from home I turned right around and headed back.

Used my napa block tester that fits in radiator the next day to test and the liquid changed color so head gasket is definitely blown.

Tried some blue devil today and let it run for an hour and that did not solve the problem.

Body is somewhat rough so not sure what I'm going to do now, purchased an '02 f150 for $1200 to drive for now. This 2.9 block has either 215k or 315k on it so not sure new heads/head gaskets are a good idea ...no junkyard local had a 2.9 when I called around. I like the little ranger and prefer driving it to the f150 but the parts for a carb 302 swap are numerous and expensive and I'm not good enough with fuel injection and computers to attempt a 4.0 swap.

87 fuel Canister, figuring out if it has a filter

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