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front driver side shakes when braking at high speeds


91stranger

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So just like the title says. This happened a few months ago so I ordered a caliper and the caliper was actually not right and wouldn't fully bleed. So I put my old caliper back on and there was no more shaking... This was a few months ago. I drive this truck 5-7 days a week on a 40 mile round trip (daily) for work. So it is very odd that this severe shaking stopped without really doing anything. I did bleed all four brakes when I put my old caliper back on and that was it. So I am thinking I have a bad rubber brake line. Anyone else have this issue or can confirm what the issue is?
 


pjtoledo

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I see no mention of the slider pins, clean and lube them and the holes.
try purging the caliper. remove it leaving the hose connected. open the bleeder and use a big C clamp to fully compress both pistons. then close bleeder and pump until the pistons are extended. put a piece of wood in there to keep the pistons even. rinse and repeat a couple times. when finished the caliper should loosen its grip on the rotor when the brakes are released. remove the clips and chip away at the rust on the bracket where the pads contact it. the pads should move with minimal effort.

if the front lines are originals, there is no shame in replacing them "when they still work"
 
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91stranger

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I see no mention of the slider pins, clean and lube them and the holes.
try purging the caliper. remove it leaving the hose connected. open the bleeder and use a big C clamp to fully compress both pistons. then close bleeder and pump until the pistons are extended. put a piece of wood in there to keep the pistons even. rinse and repeat a couple times. when finished the caliper should loosen its grip on the rotor when the brakes are released. remove the clips and chip away at the rust on the bracket where the pads contact it. the pads should move with minimal effort.

if the front lines are originals, there is no shame in replacing them "when they still work"
That's what I did a few months ago when I went to replace the caliper. once I realized I was given the wrong caliper and it wouldn't build pressure I treated it like a brake job where I pulled both front calipers and pressed both of them in all the way and then pumped the brakes up evenly. I lube everything when working on it and clean anything with rust really good with a scraper and a wire brush. Once I did that everything was fine for literally 2-3 months. So I put about 1000-1200 miles on since then with no issues and now today it started back up. I am putting on a new rubber line. Hoping that's all it is.
 

black_demon69

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Try turning or replacing the rotors
 

Denisefwd93

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Replace both rubber hoses, just out of age you should have done it, they really aren't that expensive
 

black_demon69

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Replace both rubber hoses, just out of age you should have done it, they really aren't that expensive
There
are 3 hoses 1 in the Rear about center top of the diff and the 2 front ones:yahoo:
I would also replace the rear one
 

Denisefwd93

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There
are 3 hoses 1 in the Rear about center top of the diff and the 2 front ones:yahoo:
I would also replace the rear one
And there is brake fluid and all the lines too
 

Dirtman

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Brakes slow the truck down.
 

Uncle Gump

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I really don't see how a caliper could cause "severe" shaking? I would be thinking more of a tie rod... ball joint... control arm bushing type repair. Even the alignment being off when you try to stop fast at highway speeds. If a rotor was warped... you would feel it all the time... at least I would think.

I'm also confused about the new caliper not being able to fully bleed. Was it that you weren't getting fluid to it?
 

Macneil87

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I would put money on your caliper slides starting to seize which caused your rotors to warp.

How did the pads look when you tried to put a new caliper on?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

adsm08

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I'm also confused about the new caliper not being able to fully bleed. Was it that you weren't getting fluid to it?
If it was the wrong side it could mount up and fit, but the bleeder would be at the bottom, and then it won't bleed.
 

Uncle Gump

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If it was the wrong side it could mount up and fit, but the bleeder would be at the bottom, and then it won't bleed.
LOL.... I guess that could be it. That would have made it the wrong caliper... not that it wasn't right and wouldn't completely bleed.
 

Dirtman

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Or this... :icon_rofl:

Actual truck I fixed... Pulled into my shop like this. I couldn't find the words to explain why this dude needed new tires. His complaint was a vibration after replacing his calipers....
 

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Uncle Gump

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I really miss seeing things like that... especially when someone else is paying the bill.
 

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