Formulating a plan

drivepirate · Jan 14, 2019

Hello everyone. I am doing a bunch of work to my old 99 ranger 2wd 3.0l, so that I can give it to my daughter when she turns 16.

On the list are ball joints, rotors, valve cover gaskets, timing chain, and probably oil pan gasket.

I only have basic jackstands and handtools so my question is this, what is the best way to go about all of this? Is it possible that removing some of the suspension parts will give me easier access to the oil pan? I know that removing the radiator and fan, along with the intake manifold and valve covers will give me a lot of extra room around the engine compartment as well.

Any ideas are welcome.. thanks

Rearanger · Jan 15, 2019

drivepirate said:
On the list are ball joints, rotors, valve cover gaskets, timing chain, and probably oil pan gasket.

I only have basic jackstands and handtools so my question is this, what is the best way to go about all of this?

I have done ball joints, rotors, with ordinary jack stands/supports and ordinary tools. I think your year may require a lower ball joint remover/press that you can borrow from a parts store. However you'll need an impact wrench (air recommended) to use it.

The rotors come with installed races so I would advise new axle roller bearings as well.

The valve cover gaskets can be done leaning over the engine. I'd recommend sending out the injectors for test/cleaning while you're in there. I use Witchhunter.com.

Why do you think you need a timing chain?

Get a Haynes Manual to guide you through the process.

Pan gasket will need engine removal - at least that's the accepted method commented on here.

drivepirate · Jan 15, 2019

Rearanger, thanks for your input.

I’m familiar with the suspension and top end stuff. I didn’t know that I should pay attention to the injectors so thank you for that. Though I did replace the injector o-rings.

I need to do the timing chain cover because it’s leaking, and I figured that I might as well replace the chain and sprockets while I’m in there. Also the oil pan gasket is seeping so that needs to be buttoned up as well.

I now have access to a cherry picker but no covered area to work under. I know I can fashion a shelter with poles and tarps along with some cinder blocks for tie downs, but the wind here in the gorge has been relentless for several weeks, discouraging my will.

Side note: I replaced the valve cover gaskets 3 weeks ago and it’s now seeping oil from one area near a valve cover bolt.. I think I lost a grommet. I wonder if I can reuse the new silicone gasket or if I need to buy a new one again.

Thanks again for anyone’s input, everything helps.

adsm08 · Jan 16, 2019

The silicone gasket should be ok to be reused at this point.

I would do all your other work now, and leave the oil pan gasket until spring. If it isn't pouring out you are OK for now.

txgocartB3000#2 · Jan 16, 2019

While at it you should consider cam synchro Assy.

Ray

drivepirate · Jan 26, 2019

Well I’ve decided that this next few days will be the time. I’ll build a temporary carport with poles, blocks, and a tarp. After that I’m going to follow my Chilton book in removing the motor now that I have access to a hoist. If I cannot borrow an engine stand, we will buy one. I think that a 750lb stand will be adequate.

After the removal I plan on doing the bare minimum, concentrating on replacing any gaskets within reason. This is just a project to make the truck dry, not a rebuild.

Having the engine out should make it easier for sure. I know that the “while you’re in there” opinion is quite valid but money is a factor and it can be hard where to draw the line.

Most of the work will be done alone.. wish me luck.

alwaysFlOoReD · Jan 27, 2019

With the engine out I would definitely replace all the frost plugs I could reach. Don't forget the ones in the heads. I've had pinhole leaks on the head plugs and they are a bear to change out when the engine is installed.

drivepirate · Jan 27, 2019

Ran into a problem posting on my computer, apparently I have unfilled profile information that doesn’t allow me to post, so I lost a long well typed post. So now I am using my phone and voice to text, I apologize if it isn’t coherent.

I was reading the Chilton guide today and one of the 1st things it states, is to have the AC unit removed by a professional. This goes against what I’m trying to do here. I have found a few posts online regarding leaving the AC unit in the engine bay while removing the engine. I can only assume that the manual suggests removing the AC unit for either safety or clearance.

Any ideas?

If indeed I need to have the AC discharged and removed by a professional mechanic, I may just decide to let the oil pan gasket sleep while doing the rest of the work with the engine remaining in the truck.

Thanks all

pjtoledo · Jan 27, 2019

that's if the AC is discharged. you should be able to move the compressor out of the way without opening the lines.

2000 is way overkill for an engine stand. a huge 514 cu in big block is only 670 shipping weight.

RonD · Jan 27, 2019

Yes, AC fluid is not suppose to be vented to the atmosphere, pollution, so you should have an AC tech drain it, there's a machine that sucks it out, before separating the lines.

But as said you can work around the lines usually so they can stay connected.

It doesn't hurt anything to drain it yourself, just not good environmental practice, like dumping old motor oil down the drain or ??
If you drain an AC system you do need to replace the drier before refilling, not an expensive part

drivepirate · Jan 27, 2019

Just to be clear, I wouldn’t discharge any freon purposely. If possible I’ll just remove the compressor from the engine leaving all the lines intact.. unless I’m missing something.

drivepirate · Jan 29, 2019

I don’t see much information about leaving the ac unit in the engine bay on the 1999 ranger. The book says to remove it but... here we go lol

drivepirate · Jan 29, 2019

Started disconnecting everything from the motor today. The Chilton doesn’t really put things in the right order [emoji849].

If anyone has any tips on disconnecting the wiring on the backside of the motor/transmission, I’d be appreciative. They are difficult to reach because the tabs are accessed from the top and it seems I need to pull them down. I might need to remove the wheels which isn’t noted in the manual.. It gets hard knowing when to follow the book and when to improvise.

Ideas welcome,
Thanks

ericbphoto · Jan 29, 2019

Improvise until you get stuck. Then check the book and this forum for answers as needed. Take your time and don't rush. If something looks like it might be tricky to reassemble, take pictures with your phone as you disassemble it. Most wiring connectors will only fit in one place. So that usually works out ok.

This message composed solely of recycled electrons. Go green!

drivepirate · Jan 31, 2019

Good advice eric. Still looking for any info regarding leaving the ac in the truck on the 99 ranger 3.0l. I don’t see any major hang ups removing the motor, but I’m sure there is a reason that the book recommends taking the ac out before removing the motor..

Formulating a plan

New Member

Active Member

New Member

Senior Master Grease Monkey

Member

New Member

Forum Staff Member

New Member

Well-Known Member

Official TRS AI

New Member

New Member

New Member

Overlander in development

New Member

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Member & Vendor Upgrades

Truck of The Month

Recently Featured

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Events

25th Anniversary Sponsors

Check Out The TRS Store

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Amazon Deals