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Updates on the P0171 and P0174 codes after replacing the intake gaskets


Matt300ZXT

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Ok, I finally defeated the 4.0 OHV motor in regards to doing the upper intake plenum gaskets, as well as the fuel rail gasket even though it showed no evidence of coming apart and being sucked in towards the lower intake manifold, but I replaced them anyways.

Soooooo after following the guides, torquing everything down in 2 stages in the proper order, and finally getting all the hoses and sensors hooked back in (only broke 2 brittle old hoses that I repaired), she finally started back up after the fuel system finally reprimed itself. Luckily, there wasn't fuel spraying everywhere so the new injector o-rings worked out just fine and the injectors seated.

So, the engine hasn't been running long enough for any CELs to come back on if there is still indeed an issue but it is still doing one of the same things it was doing before.

When the issue first started a few weeks ago after doing the thermostat/coolant temp sensor/coolant job to fix a code for that, it started idling rough on the drive home. I ran codes on it when I got home and the P0171 and P0174 showed up. I sprayed carb cleaner and the only place it affected the idle was the front of the plastic intake. Aside from rough idling, sometimes worse than others, in reverse the truck wanted to stall or run reaaaallllllly rough. It'd only be in reverse a few seconds at a time, but it was still pretty bad, and long enough for it to stall sometimes. It is still doing that, but not quite as bad as it was before I did this work.

I'll have to drive it a few days to let it run through some heat cycles to see if any codes come back, but it is still doing that thing in reverse. I'm curious if maybe something to do with the EGR system was also causing an issue and needs to be replaced.
 


Craig0320

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V8 Engine Swap
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Still sounds like a vacuum leak.When is the last time you changed your pcv valve? It can fail open and becone a vacuum leak.When it stumbles unplug your maf sensor. The computer will run the engine on preset conditions or limp mode. If it runs better plug it back in and tap on it with the handle end of a screwdriver and if it runs better it is bad. If you have a scanner you can read your o2's, maf sensor, etc to see a problem. How long of driving does it start to run rough. Could be a bad sensor when it goes into closed loop.
 

Matt300ZXT

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It's my gf's truck so I don't drive it on a daily basis. When I did the coolant parts swap, I drove about 10 minutes before I got to the restaurant and was waiting in the drivethru when it started idling pretty rough but it never stalled. It may have done it sooner but I don't think I hit any red lights in that time to notice it at idle. After a couple weeks of it running like that, if I recall, it wants to do the reverse gear dying thing pretty much right off the bat. Since I'm not using it daily, I can't say if it started doing that sooner or not.

I do have a scanner that'll do all kinds of stuff that I'll probably never use, so if I know what procedures I'm supposed to run and what I'm supposed to be looking for, I could report any value it shows. As far as the PCV valve, I haven't replaced it yet on the truck.

I did take the IACV back out and cleaned it liberally with contact cleaner this time instead of carb cleaner like I used when I was putting everything back together. I also took the plastic cap off and there was a wee bit of crud in the felt filters but not a lot. I sprayed everything out well, hit it with compressed air and put it back on. I put it in reverse a couple times, pulling forward then backward in the driveway and it didn't seem to do it as bad, but I do still plan on changing the PCV valve as well.

It's at my parent's house right now, so after work tomorrow I'm going to drive it around quite a bit and some more later this week and after it gets some miles on it, see if the CEL comes back on and then hit it with my code scanner.
 

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