• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

Crank no start 1989 bronco 2


jonesy6228

New Member
Joined
Dec 23, 2018
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Age
42
Location
Bean Station Tn
Ok, I'll try to keep it as short as I can , I pulled my 1989 bronco 2 into my garage about 2 weeks ago and when I put it in park the idle reved high, it done this a few weeks ago and I give the iac a light tap and it went back to normal and was fine until now , at that point I cut it off and when I went back to start it it didn't wanna start until I pressed the gas some and it fired, it idled high then died, I started it back and reved it and had a bad miss and upon letting off the throttle it died again. Pulled the codes and had a tps code so I decided to just order some parts , I ordered all this new , iac, tps, fuel pressure regulator , complete distributor, cap button and all with new tif, map sensor , plugs and wires, valve cover gaskets , new oil pressure sending unit, temp sending unit , temp sensor , alternator( mine was going out ) , new belt and I'm sure I'm missing something but it had been along time since replacing some of it and I wanted to get it all over with. When I got the parts I replaced the iac and tps first just because they were easy and I wanted to see if that was my issue , well it wouldn't start at all, since I had an oil leak around the distributor ( which is why I ordered a new distributor , that and for the new tif, I just went ahead and replaced all my parts , still no start. It would get to a point that it would almost start and even run on like 2 or 3 cylinders for about 10 seconds if I kept the gas pedal floored. So I moved the distributor a tooth forward , no change , a tooth back and one past that and nothing , out it back exactly where it was when I took it out and no change . Checked compression and it's good , worst cylinder was 125, best was 135 or so, fuel pressure is 39psi koeo, 38psi while cranking , good spark at the coil and good blue spark on all six wires and plugs , I've traced all the wiring and found nothing bad, it will not start on starting his either so I don't think it's a fuel issue . Today I checked the timing chain slack, and I have almost 9* of slack in the chain. Could that be my issue ? I am new to this forum so I hope I've posted this I'm the right place . Thanks and sorry for being so long winded.

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
 


RonD

Official TRS AI
TRS Technical Advisor
Joined
Jun 2, 2012
Messages
25,291
Reaction score
8,296
Points
113
Location
canada
Vehicle Year
1994
Make / Model
Ford
Transmission
Manual
Welcome to TRS :)

Yes, your IAC Valve was sticking, needed to be cleaned

With key on the computer boots up and opens the IAC Valve all the way for start up, to let in more air.
If it stayed closed then engine would flood out a bit, this is why pressing down on the "Air Pedal" got it to start, you let in enough air for the richer fuel mix on startup
(Carburetor engines had gas pedals, gasoline was actually pump in when you pressed pedal down, fuel injection doesn't do that, so its an "air" pedal, lol)

TPS(throttle position sensor) is used as a reference so computer can calculated engine Load using RPM and throttle position.


You have now done too many changes to pin point why it won't start now
Yes compression is low, expected would be 150psi, but could just be the gauge or battery condition, slower cranking.
It should start with compression above 120psi

If it doesn't fire up by spraying starting fluid(ether) into the intake then Spark is the first thing to address.
You will need to retime distributor
There are TWO TDCs, the wrong one and the right one
Pull out #1 spark plug, install compression gauge
Manually turn the crank until compression gauge starts to go up, thats the compression stroke for #1, keep turning crank until you get TDC mark at 0deg(10deg BTDC is best)
Now you can time distributor

Rotor needs to be pointed at #1 spark plug wire on the cap, so pull up distributor and put it back down so when seated all the way rotor is pointed at #1
Put a mark on distributor for #1 on the cap, then you can have the cap out of the way for timing
And make sure distributor can be turned in both directions in this position so you can fine turn spark timing with a timing light.

Firing order here: https://therangerstation.com/tech_library/images/2_9_firingorder.gif
Rotor turns clockwise

If engine doesn't fire up then TFI spark module or coil itself is not working
TFI system doesn't need the fuel injection computer to work, it is autonomous for start up

TFI system info here: https://therangerstation.com/tech_library/TFI_Diagnostic.shtml

Once engine starts you can disconnect SPOUT connector and use a timing light to fine tune spark, 10-12deg BTDC is suggested


Timing chain tensioner for the 2.9l runs about $25, so replace it if you can now, if you have front cover off, if not the slack is expect when engine is not running
 
Last edited:

jonesy6228

New Member
Joined
Dec 23, 2018
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Age
42
Location
Bean Station Tn
I have retimed it several times , cap off and the button pointed at number one on the cap, I was without a doubt on a compression stroke at tdc, I've moved the distributor a tooth forward and backward and nothing changes except when I had it too far out and it wouldn't when try to fire. I've put it back where it originally was and still nothing . As I said I've swapped the old distributor back in just to see and no change there either so I put the new one back in. I've checked the coil , all tests pass on it , 12v power on one side and test light flashes on the other side during crank . I have good spark on the coil as well as on all 6 plugs and the wires are in the correct place . Thanks for the reply


Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
 

jonesy6228

New Member
Joined
Dec 23, 2018
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Age
42
Location
Bean Station Tn
Before I replaced all the parts I only replaced the iac and tps to begin with , and it wouldn't start. So I proceeded to change the rest of my parts thinking that it was most likely the distributor tfi , that's why I bought a complete new distributor. The only time I've gotten it to start was when I had the garage warm and I had cranked enough for the heat hand to be showing some heat in the engine . It would fire and run on about 2 or 3 cylinders for close to 10 seconds and die. I was keeping the "air peddle" completely pressed to the floor in order for it to stay running for that 10 seconds .


Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
 

Paulos

Active Member
Joined
May 7, 2018
Messages
479
Reaction score
210
Points
43
Location
North Carolina
Vehicle Year
1987 STX
Make / Model
Ranger
Engine Type
2.9 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
If you have spark and fuel (and the injectors aren't clogged up) I would check the ignition module connector. I've had them go bad. You can have someone try to start the truck while you push in or slightly pull out the connector. The terminals get sloppy and loose over time, and I have personally found that the male spade connections on some modules are thicker or thinner than others.
 

jonesy6228

New Member
Joined
Dec 23, 2018
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Age
42
Location
Bean Station Tn
I haven't removed the injectors but I know they are fueling from the plugs being wet, that doesn't mean they aren't clogged but I would think if they were and it were a fuel issue it would start on starting fluid but won't. As far as the connector , your referring to the one on the back of the distributor?? The tif ? And I'll try and check that, the wires in and out of it. Is there anyway to check the plug in on the distributor? Like with a meter ? Thanks for your reply

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
 

RonD

Official TRS AI
TRS Technical Advisor
Joined
Jun 2, 2012
Messages
25,291
Reaction score
8,296
Points
113
Location
canada
Vehicle Year
1994
Make / Model
Ford
Transmission
Manual
I was the IAC Valve at first, that's the only RPM control there is besides the throttle pedal
TPS doesn't control idle, it can shut off injectors, but only air flow can change idle

If all cylinders tested at 125-135psi and engine started but misfired alot then I would revisit firing order on the cap, easy to get that wrong, either on the cap or at the spark plug, Ford cylinder numbering is different than GM


Yes, temp does matter for engines
A spark can't ignite gasoline, yes movie guys get that wrong, lol
Only gasoline VAPOR can be ignited by a spark
And thats the point of having compression above 100psi
The compression heats up the liquid gasoline so some of it vaporizes
You need about 30% vapor in the cylinder for spark to ignite air:fuel mix
Thats also why gasoline engines all need to be CHOKED when cold, yes fuel injection too.
CHOKING means more fuel is added than "normal", this increases the vapor level in the cylinder if gasoline is cold
If gasoline is at 32degF then it may only have 10% vapor, so computer adds twice as much to get 20% and then compression adds another 10% to get the 30% needed.
A weak spark might need 50-60% Vapor

This is why ether is used as a Starting Fluid, it vaporizes at low temps, so it can get a cold engine to start well below freezing temps, and once engine starts the cylinders heat up fast and gasoline will warm up and vaporized as it enters cylinders.

Open up gas cap, if you can smell gas then it has some vapor, if its very hard to smell it then almost 0% vapor is present

Try some ether

Also check battery voltage WHILE cranking the engine
If it gets below 9.8volts that can make for a weak spark

Yes, in the link I posted there are tests for distributor and module: https://therangerstation.com/tech_library/TFI_Diagnostic.shtml
 
Last edited:

jonesy6228

New Member
Joined
Dec 23, 2018
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Age
42
Location
Bean Station Tn
The iac valve is new but I can test it , I will double check my plug wires but I've went over then so many times I'm sure they are correct , and I have tried ether and it acts no different as far as trying to start . Thanks for the reply

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
 

jonesy6228

New Member
Joined
Dec 23, 2018
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Age
42
Location
Bean Station Tn
Would anyone happen to have a picture of the direction your rotory button is pointing at tdc ? I'd like to compare mine just because . Like I said I've put it back exactly where I took it out and moved it teeth backwards and forwards with no better result . Thanks

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
 

RonD

Official TRS AI
TRS Technical Advisor
Joined
Jun 2, 2012
Messages
25,291
Reaction score
8,296
Points
113
Location
canada
Vehicle Year
1994
Make / Model
Ford
Transmission
Manual
It points at #1 spark plug wire on the Cap

Look at the diagram I post in 2nd post: https://therangerstation.com/tech_library/images/2_9_firingorder.gif

Or #5

As said there are two TDCs, one for #1 compression stroke and one for #5 compression stroke, distributor turns at 1/2 the speed of the crank, so crank rotates two times for one turn of distributor
 
Last edited:

jonesy6228

New Member
Joined
Dec 23, 2018
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Age
42
Location
Bean Station Tn
Thanks again . I understand it points at one on the cap . I could still be off a tooth and it be pointed in the general area. I guess I was just looking to compare a picture of the actual rotor itself without the cap . I just don't think this problem is timing, not as far as tdc compression stroke , rotor pointed the right way kinda thing , I feel good about all that stuff for the most part as being right . I'm gonna try my best to test the tif plug and see what I kind find .

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Staff online

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Truck of The Month


Kirby N.
March Truck of The Month

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Events

25th Anniversary Sponsors

Check Out The TRS Store


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Top