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Ranger Axles Dana 28, Dana 35, Ford 7.5 & Ford 8.8

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Old 10-01-2010, 12:25 AM   #11
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your stock E brake cables should fit, either that or swap the 9" brakes onto the newer axle...
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Old 02-06-2019, 09:04 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scotts90ranger View Post
ranger to ranger is a direct bolt in, no mods needed... pull the drums and look at the pads, with 20k on it in cali the brakes probably look new...
Found this thread and created an account (hello everyone!) as I'm interested in doing the same swap but I have a 86 ranger. Mine is a 4x2 with an open 7.5 with 15in rims, I would to put in a LS rear with 4.10 gears but I am having a hard time finding a F7 rear (7.5 LS) in the yards around me. That's when I found this thread about swapping in a ranger (not explorer) 8.8 rear. I direct bolt in is what I'm looking for but would any year ranger with an R7 rear (ranger 8.8 Las/4.10s) work for me or only certain years? I've looked over what I could find in the "How to Tech' section but I didn't find anything specific.

Last edited by Kellogg; 02-06-2019 at 09:11 AM. Reason: Poor grammar
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Old 02-06-2019, 09:36 AM   #13
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Any Ranger axle will bolt in, but any 8.8 and 7.5s made after 1990 will not have the correct bolt spacing on the companion flange. You will need a spacer or a conversion joint and a later yoke.
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Old 02-06-2019, 09:45 AM   #14
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Kellogg:

Did you read the following:
https://www.therangerstation.com/sto...er-rear-axles/

It specifically describe the differences in width/tube diameter (neither which change it from being a direct bolt in; you just need the correct u-bolts/spring plates for the '10-11 axles).

If your truck was newer, we would have more detailed discussion on the 8.8 having tone ring with more teeth (which affects speedo) for '98-09 and the '10-11s which have ABS sensors on both wheels instead of the ring gear tone ring.

What isn't mentioned, but is identical, is the brake pilot dimension is 2.525" for both as well. The Explorer's is 2.775" (which means some gen 1,2 4x2 wheels don't mount correct on Explorer axles).

Several individuals run the 10" rear drums where they previously had 9". You get more braking from the rear axle, but you also run risk of rear wheel lock up. If your ABS/RABS is functioning correctly, no issue. If not, it can be exciting in a panic situation.
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Old 02-06-2019, 01:23 PM   #15
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Thanks adsm08 for the info! Two of the yards i checked out told me that only 7.5's between 1983-1988 would work for my 86, although they couldn't tell me why... Maybe the shock mount being narrower as mentioned above.

I will look more into that conversion joint and later yoke for after 1990, but my best bet seems to be to find a pre 1990 (or 1988?) F7 or R7. Is anything else different between 1990 and 1992 on the ranger 7.5s and 8.8s besides the bolt spacing on the companion flange and shock mounts? I know after 1992 the axle lengths increase from 56.5 to 58.5in (not sure if thats an issue)

Don4331 I did see that page on rear axles. I knew that the axle tube on the 8.8 was larger but like you said that's just a matter of larger U-bolts and plates for 2011. And thanks for the info on the disc rears. My truck doesn't currently have ABS so if i end up with 10in drums i am already well accustomed to wheel lock ups lol. Keeps things interesting!
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Old 02-06-2019, 05:37 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adsm08 View Post
Any Ranger axle will bolt in, but any 8.8 and 7.5s made after 1990 will not have the correct bolt spacing on the companion flange. You will need a spacer or a conversion joint and a later yoke.
I drilled and tapped the smaller pattern in my 8.8 flange. I guess Mustang flanges can be had with the smaller pattern too.
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Old 02-07-2019, 08:34 AM   #17
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So I found a post 1990 7.5 open with 4.10 gears for $150, would I be able to to swap my current companion flange onto this newer 7.5?
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Old 02-11-2019, 11:45 PM   #18
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I have a 2002 short bed with the 7.5 and I was simply going to do the Mustang disc brake swap. With all of the brake line rework , I decided to go to the local yard and ended up with a 2001 8.8 with 4.10s ( same as the 7.5) and convert it instead , then roll it under the truck. 10" drum brakes and factory sway bar. I already had a Mustang 8.8 t lock unit so while the axles were coming out anyway, I pulled the open and the pinion to install a solid pinion bearing spacer and the Mustang t lock. Pulled the anti lock ring off of the open and pressed it onto the t lock and popped it back into place. Back lash was spot on. I took this opportunity to install the Ford Racing ( production part too) aluminum finned cover. The instructions say it will not fit a diff that has the anti lock ring , and unless you use a die grinder to remove the offending internal fin , it won't . After ten minuted of "persuasion" from the die grinder the offending fin was lowered enough to allow the cover to bolt on perfectly. Another option ( which I did test fit) is the cover from a T bird IRS and that gives a mounting provision for a bolt on snatch hook.

Do I have to recallibrate for the 8.8 anti lock ring versus the 7.5 piece?

Started doing the disc conversion and it looks like I have to space the caliper toward the wheel a bit to "center the caliber " over the rotor. I believe that is normal and nothing to worry about. Once that is sorted , I will move to the brake line adjustments and finally the spacers to allow use of the stock e brake cables. Then I'll roll it under and start spinning wrenches to bolt it in. That will leave the 7.5 4.10 open with 9 or 10" ( or both) up to a needy person here in So Cal for pick up only . Nothing removed and the 10" brakes will be included.
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Last edited by GT350HR; 02-11-2019 at 11:50 PM.
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