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2.3 Lima block 94 ranger runs rich, possible compression issues I've tried it all


Audiotech80

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Hoping i may be overlooking something but I'm sure the rings are bad or the valves . I've done new plugs wires coil packs multimeter and scoped the injectors did a cylinder balance test cylinder 1 is off doesn't change in idle when i pull injector power or #1 plug wire . Replaced #1 injector same issue changed temp sensor changed pcm
I did a smoke test for vacuum leak.

Just burns gas and no power and sometimes a hard start and obvious idle shake issue. But don't stall at all.

Only thing i haven't done was a leak down test , cyl 1 compression seems low but so do all the rest and I never can get a good reading tried 3 diff test kits .
Another member from a diff ranger forum said cyl 1 injector could be grounding out between the pcm and harness but , if I'm pulling power from 1st injector and no change in idle that would yield no combustion or no clogged injector and the #1 injector is new and all are ohm out at 15ohms.
 


tomw

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Depending on ignition system, you may also be killing #4 when you pull #1 plug wire. FWIW.
I would suggest getting compression readings with the ignition disabled, throttle wide open. Then plop a bit of motor oil into the cylinders, and repeat the compression test. If the rings are failing, the oil will help temporarily improve the seal and compression results would rise. If no or little change, look more closely at the valves.
Given you can get the engine to run, you might also want to check the manifold vacuum looking for the needle to pulse if one cylinder has leaky valves. If you open the throttle quickly and then let it snap closed, the vacuum should drop and then quickly increase, if things are working properly.
The Lima is pretty good unless abused and given poor maintenance. The bottom can easily run for 300,000 miles. Unless it has been overheated, or the oil changed twice a decade... it should be good.
Get the compression readings and see what they show. You might also use a timing light with a clamp on pickup to check that each plug is getting spark. Run the engine at idle and place the clamp on each plug wire in turn observing the timing light flashes for regularity and proper flashing. If one cylinder seems to be irregular, check more into that.
tom
 

Audiotech80

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Depending on ignition system, you may also be killing #4 when you pull #1 plug wire. FWIW.
I would suggest getting compression readings with the ignition disabled, throttle wide open. Then plop a bit of motor oil into the cylinders, and repeat the compression test. If the rings are failing, the oil will help temporarily improve the seal and compression results would rise. If no or little change, look more closely at the valves.
Given you can get the engine to run, you might also want to check the manifold vacuum looking for the needle to pulse if one cylinder has leaky valves. If you open the throttle quickly and then let it snap closed, the vacuum should drop and then quickly increase, if things are working properly.
The Lima is pretty good unless abused and given poor maintenance. The bottom can easily run for 300,000 miles. Unless it has been overheated, or the oil changed twice a decade... it should be good.
Get the compression readings and see what they show. You might also use a timing light with a clamp on pickup to check that each plug is getting spark. Run the engine at idle and place the clamp on each plug wire in turn observing the timing light flashes for regularity and proper flashing. If one cylinder seems to be irregular, check more into that.
tom

Interesting feedback, I know the only odd indication i see on the rpm gauge while coasting to a stop light or stop sign as i usually do with the clutch engaged the rpms fluctuate 1000-1500 ,1000_1500 until the coast is almost to a stop then it settles at normal rpm idle during a complete stop. I never could under stand that phenomenon but i read others explain a similar situation .
I know the iac and tps sensors are clean and I multi tested them. But when I unplug either at an idle I get no change .
I put on a new upper intake gasket during the injector change just to do it . But all I know is i did a real good smoke test on the engine and i didn't get any leakage in sight .
It's really strange . RonD has been helpful for a good 4-5 weeks with good info but the more ideas the better . I have tried over and over to get a good compression test but it's like the cylinder or all four cylinders flood out during or prior to the test. Ans i have been pulling ecu and fuel relay prior to cranking just to be sure .The numbers I been getting on all 4 banks are ridiculous low and so off that it should not even start or run , it's like im not getting a seal on the 14mm adapters from 3 diff rental kits or there's some flooding causing false readings ..but i drive it just has like go kart power and eats gas like a v10
 

icetherice

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I had a similar fluctuating idle condition when I originally build my engine. Had a lean code and after a few data logs and multiple tests I figured it had to be a faulty MAF. When I replaced it the idle high coasting to a stop stopped. It hunts when its cold sometimes but I just chalk that up to the o2 sensors being 18 years old. :shrug: my .02

I know you're pre-obd2 but there's a way to pull codes from the computer, usually involves a paperclip jumper and watching the check engine light flash.
 

Audiotech80

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I had a similar fluctuating idle condition when I originally build my engine. Had a lean code and after a few data logs and multiple tests I figured it had to be a faulty MAF. When I replaced it the idle high coasting to a stop stopped. It hunts when its cold sometimes but I just chalk that up to the o2 sensors being 18 years old. :shrug: my .02

I know you're pre-obd2 but there's a way to pull codes from the computer, usually involves a paperclip jumper and watching the check engine light flash.


I back probed and tested the maf during running the voltage raised and dropped in accordance with the throttle gradually open and closed plus I cleaned the sensor .
Not really sure testing with multimeter seems to be just a myth you test sensors for correct ohm readings and voltage and all checks put then you hear stories of people just changing them anyways and it fixes it .

Throwing good parts over good parts SMH!
 

icetherice

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I guess the sensor can get pitted and corroded over time. I did the same thing. Cleaned it, back-probed it with a DMM. Looked good. Engine was still screaming for fuel as soon as I cracked the throttle. I had datalogs with STFT as high as 30% and my lean code. Good fuel pressure, new fuel filter, etc. All I can assume is that the sensor wasn't following the response curve that it had 18 years ago.

Do you have a CEL?
Post compression #s

You said the idle didn't change AT ALL after you pulled injector power and spark? Do the other cylinders behave the same?
 

Audiotech80

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I guess the sensor can get pitted and corroded over time. I did the same thing. Cleaned it, back-probed it with a DMM. Looked good. Engine was still screaming for fuel as soon as I cracked the throttle. I had datalogs with STFT as high as 30% and my lean code. Good fuel pressure, new fuel filter, etc. All I can assume is that the sensor wasn't following the response curve that it had 18 years ago.

Do you have a CEL?
Post compression #s

You said the idle didn't change AT ALL after you pulled injector power and spark? Do the other cylinders behave the same?
No cel ever. Balance test cylinders Bank 2 3 4 all drop idle when i pull plug wire or Injector power plug cyl 1 is the only one that don't change

. I changed injector #1 weeks ago same stuff and scoped and metered all the voltage and ohms.
I've swapped 5 speed computer I've did plugs new coil packs "Both" new temp sensor new upper intake gasket new vacuum line setup from a donor truck , cleaned iac cleaned maf plugs wires New everything even ICM module . New fuel regulator new fuel filter Checked timing belt new thermostat new dpf sensor .
Compression checked cyl 1-4 , get odd #s 30psi for cyl1 line 90 cyl2 90s cyl3 and 125 cyl4 all crazy as numbers that wouldn't even allow the truck to run let alone drive. But it starts runs idle never stalls just go kart power and eats gas like a v10 maybe 5 miles gallon.

No real blow by no antifreeze mix in the dip stick no blue or gray smoke , just a little condensation on cold start. But when cranking you can hear like the 4th compression stroke sound is off like not there like to explain the sound is like the Rwrrr Rwrrr Rwrrr "blank tthen it starts .
I swear it's in the rings or head gasket or valves
 
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icetherice

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30psi on number 1 oof.

Pull the head off and check for cracks? If it's not in the head or a burnt valve seat it's rings or a gasket. Have you tested for exhaust gas in the coolant?

When I bought my truck the head gasket was blown between #1 and #2, and was sucking in coolant from the other side. Chunks were missing from the #1 crown and she still made it around the block on two cylinders :shrug:

Sounds like you just need to rebuild it or get a junkyard motor and swap it. It's not that bad of a job.
 

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