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New Alternator Problems


ericbphoto

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I'm pretty sure the pump should cycle on briefly every time you turn the key on. I don't think there is any pressure switch to prevent it.

This message composed solely of recycled electrons. Go green!
 


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The pump will run every time the key is cycled, but once the system is purged of air and up to pressure it gets much quieter.

I have not been following this closely enough to know all the ins and outs of your issues.

If you aren't getting fuel, it will not start.
 

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Thr transmission shop going to let you have it towed out if they're not paid?

I think if there's pressure in the fuel lines you won't hear the pump because it's already up to pressure the experts would know better than me.
Tranny guy....He has been a pretty good person. I told what I was going to do and I am not paying to have it towed back. He agreed and will go to car when it is fixed for the test drive. Tranny will not be engaged unless it is him first and he does the test drive.

That car has been cranked over 50 times and everyone always heard the click and then hum. Lights are still strong and cranking still sounds steady. Possible but I am leaning no power to relay since there is no power going to coil or those injectors. A short since the get go. I did not have a helper for checking with noid light to see if computer was sending anything to injectors. I asked as mechanic from one of the shops who was walking past me to help with the spark light. And it a 2 person job unless it is dark.

Will try the jump and listen for pump before calling tow truck in the morning. Thanks again to All of you. You gave more than you realize.
 

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Over by the battery is a large relay with two large posts (it may be under a plastic cover). You can touch a screw driver to the two large posts and the engine will crank. If you do it with the key on you have a one-man spark test.
So this would be the "starter relay"? It is round ans sits between battery and the fuse box? Touch metal end of screwdriver to both posts and I should get spark? Then with key on, doing the same thing, it should start the car if I have gas going to engine?

BTW>>When I found out there was no longer power going to the coil or injector harness, I switched out PCM relay with a donor PCM relay and no change but.....when I gently had to flip the plastic unit the 3 relays are seated in to remove the relay, the short thick insulated wire coming from plug in, where it goes into fuse box(battery side), the black insulation kind of started flaking off by the plug going into box. (I think that plug is fixed?) Nothing is touching the wire where it is exposed. I put everything back as it is supposed to be and all fuses are showing good on both sides. Could that wire have been bad? I know old rubber and plastic cracks and starts falling apart But could that wire be the cause of any or all issues underneath the dry/brittle covering? What does it mean a wire is melted? Insulation does not appear to have melted. Just old and had a curve to it to fit there.

Hard to let this go. Money wise and brain wise. lol.

On my way to car and will try the screwdriver test. Tow driver is on call.
 

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jumping the two large terminals with a screwdriver will only kick in the starter and crank the engine if the starter is good

if you still have no electric to the PCM eec and other components it may still not run but that's how you can kick the starter over when I'm going back to the future.

Problems with relays and wiring on Broncos are pretty common apparently here's another discussion right here on TRS the guy found a bad fusible link underneath
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url=https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=450225&share_tid=450225&share_fid=33056&share_type=t
 
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PonyUp

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Ongoing...

Hello everyone. Still Thanking ALL of you for your help. Car is still not running but current mechanic checked quite a few things to verify fuel, spark and injector pulse. Weak spark still, 40 PSI and injectors pulsing. He has been busy and I agreed to leave car so he could do things as he gets spare time. He is cool and a good guy.

I sent him the link to this thread and he read all of it. He will be trying a few things from this thread. He will also call my brother. I am going to change out battery cables and maybe try another battery. Last shop said they put on two new grounds and when I tracked them down from the battery>>One was just laying against metal of tire well under fuse box. Grrrrr....

Will keep you posted. BTW, those of you who posted and I did not directly respond to, I apologize. Just so much was going on at that time and my brain was wonky too. Thank You and I meant no disrespect.
 

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Not over yet.

Without going into the total drama of a 5 month nightmare...I will post later about those), I finally got my Bronco back last week. Mechanic #5 finally got it running and wiring issues were resolved. (Maybe/Hopefully) It went back tranny guy where it had died months ago after rebuild installation. The selinoids and a plug had to be replaced due to wiring issues from the a previous alternator/harness installation.

Tranny guy redid his stuff, drove it and certified it working and he finally got paid. Electrical mechanic drove it from Transmission shop to his shop and certified it with no wiring issues.

I drive it to head home and I get a issue. When I slowed down to 10 mph to turn into a parking lot, tranny downshifted pretty hard. it had never done that prior to tranny rebuild.

Called tranny guy and he said it is probably the TPS going out. Does that sound right?

He said take it back to Mechanic #5 and he can test it.
 

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PonyUp you must be dizzy by now.
I had issues with finding correct parts for a Mustang. I think was a 2000 - 35th anniversary edition, V6. I kept getting wrong parts, until I told them it was an anniversary edition. He said that makes a difference. I thought they just slapped special badges on a Mustang
Instead they built some 2001's in 2000 and called them "anniversary editions"
 
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PonyUp

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Lawsuit on the way

Thanks for your reply. yeah...they all knew it was Eddie Bauer and I am on track to organize all costs, issues and parts replaced. The previous shop who put the 4th alternator with new plug/harness, ended up with my Bronco wiring, relays, plugs melting and some sensors shot. Also ruined the rebuilt tranny selenoids/plugs. Took mechanic #5 the alterntor of my same year donor and he got the correct replacement along with replacing everything that had melted. They traced every wire, harness, plug in the car for damage. I suppose more things might show up. but everything was testing good when I got it back. Aternator is finally working as it should have from the beginning.

Now the down shift issue and found out yesterday my cruise control no longer works. Taking it today to have the Throttle sensor tested.

Thanks again for sharing. It has been challenging and lawsuit is not the end result I was expecting due to a alterntor going bad. Yes...I am going to take meter lessons on my car after the first of the year. Read the original shop manuals. :)
 

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