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Youll probably wanna kick my teeth in...


pjtoledo

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in the true spirit of hot-rodding GO FOR IT :icon_thumby:

425 lbft of torque at 1750 RPMs,, better stock up on U joints 'n driveshafts
 


Brandoncw

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Do some research before spending a bunch of money.
If your state does OBD II testing with the Gordon Darby system that NH and many other states use, an engine swap will never pass inspection. Or if it does pass the tech will be in trouble. The tech enters or scans the VIN at the start of the inspection and the system reads the VIN in the PCM, they have to match. If you swap a later engine and all the emissions equipment into a vehicle it will most likely run cleaner but the VIN mismatch will prevent it from passing inspection. That's because the people making the laws and regs don't understand how things work, if they had enough knowledge to really understand, they could get jobs instead of running for office.
Also, I hate the way diesels sound, smell, and run.
No sort of emissions or fancy testing here, just a basic safety inspection 😁
 

Brandoncw

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What year of BMW Diesel? That thing is going to be heavily dependent on electronics. Not sure if it's feasible to try to run it mechanically like an old OM 617. I would expect that best results would be to use complete system from the donor - engine, transmission, ecu, wiring harness, maybe even the instrument cluster, which, even 9 years ago was heavily digital.

I work at the BMW manufacturing plant in SC. My first car in the employee lease program, about 9 years ago was a 335 diesel. That thing was sweet. Very peppy good performance. Excellent fuel mileage. I remember getting around 43mpg in that car with very little effort at driving conservatively.
Plan on using a 2011. I'm gonna try to get a complete donor off copart or something. Will use everything possible to both keep cost down and keep it as simple as possible even if it won't exactly be the cleanest install
 

Brandoncw

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in the true spirit of hot-rodding GO FOR IT :icon_thumby:

425 lbft of torque at 1750 RPMs,, better stock up on U joints 'n driveshafts
Fortunately in that regard, I don't think there's enough weight and traction at the rear of these trucks to break anything even if I used a match stick for a drive shaft :icon_rofl:
 

ericbphoto

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Fortunately in that regard, I don't think there's enough weight and traction at the rear of these trucks to break anything even if I used a match stick for a drive shaft :icon_rofl:
That’s the assumption that gets stuff broken.
 

Brandoncw

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Well, I'll keep you guys posted when stuff starts happening. Before I can get started I've gotta get the donor and I need another truck. Hopefully I can get the ball rolling within a couple of months
 

MISWFL

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Do some research before spending a bunch of money.
If your state does OBD II testing with the Gordon Darby system that NH and many other states use, an engine swap will never pass inspection. Or if it does pass the tech will be in trouble. The tech enters or scans the VIN at the start of the inspection and the system reads the VIN in the PCM, they have to match. If you swap a later engine and all the emissions equipment into a vehicle it will most likely run cleaner but the VIN mismatch will prevent it from passing inspection. That's because the people making the laws and regs don't understand how things work, if they had enough knowledge to really understand, they could get jobs instead of running for office.
Also, I hate the way diesels sound, smell, and run.
That could probably be bypassed, if it's only a quick OBD2 plug in inspection, without a; dyno, tailpipe and underhood visual inspection like California does. Have a fake test only OBD2 port that's tied into the original Ranger ECU that's been hacked/tricked into reading clean and good.

Politicians don't care about the little people, just who's paying them. The 13 families and Klaus Schwab don't want regular people to have the freedom and independence that privately owned ICE vehicles provide.

Diesel and propane are the only viable ICE fuels that can be stored long term. Even with stabilizers gasoline can't be stored very long without loosing octane and the additive package degrading. Diesel/Heating oil will still be around long after gasoline has been banned from production. Then there's BioDiesel and WVO. Don't you like the smell of French fries?
 

franklin2

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Then there's BioDiesel and WVO. Don't you like the smell of French fries?
Bio diesel and WVO have shelf life problems like ethanol fuel does. It can make a mess out of the diesel fuel system. I am fighting one as we post. I just ordered my 5th fuel pump yesterday.
 

MISWFL

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Bio diesel and WVO have shelf life problems like ethanol fuel does. It can make a mess out of the diesel fuel system. I am fighting one as we post. I just ordered my 5th fuel pump yesterday.
What's your extra filtration and water separator setup like? Are you heating your WVO?

I don't believe in modern common rail emission controlled diesels and would never own one. Vane type Diesel pumps are too sensitive to fuel lubricity and viscosity for long term WVO use, IMO. The Mercedes piston type Diesel pump is superior for that, because the pump body is lubricated by engine oil instead of the fuel. The pistons are easy to change out.
 

franklin2

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What's your extra filtration and water separator setup like? Are you heating your WVO?

I don't believe in modern common rail emission controlled diesels and would never own one. Vane type Diesel pumps are too sensitive to fuel lubricity and viscosity for long term WVO use, IMO. The Mercedes piston type Diesel pump is superior for that, because the pump body is lubricated by engine oil instead of the fuel. The pistons are easy to change out.
Where I work they use Biodiesel. They have equipment that sits around for several years, and it gets gummed up. I got one of their old diesel mowers,, and have been trying to clean it out and get it running. I finally got it last summer and was able to mow all summer with it. But it sat over the winter and when I went to start it up the other day, the electric fuel pump was locked up again.

I have pulled the complete fuel tank out and cleaned it. I tried anyway. Whatever this sticky stuff is that comes out of the Bio, diesel doesn't touch it. Brake cleaner has a hard time with it. The only thing that seems to dissolve it is 911 in the red can.

This tractor has a suction filter in the tank, the electric fuel pump, then a separator filter, then a cartridge filter and then it enters the injection pump, and then it has a return to the tank. I added a second suction filter and when I went to start it this season, the filter I added was totally plugged(it's the glass see through type). I cleaned it out and thought it would go but no, the fuel pump was stuck and it burnt it up.
 

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