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Yet another axle swap


1freaky1

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Made up the new tie rod yesterday now I just have to ream the mounting holes to fit the chevy 1 ton TREs.



 

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kris97ranger

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Very colorful. lol
 

1freaky1

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For the last two days I have been hitting it pretty good as I have to have the truck out of the garage by this coming Friday. Things done are steering gear box mounted, Steering column shaft & knuckles, Hi-press steering line is welded up(two lines made in to one) Got me reamer so I can do the 1 Ton TRE cross over now. Things left to do are front brake lines, double check pinion angles before final welding, make new track bar mount on D44, and lastly install front shocks.






 
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dangerranger83

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My gf looked at my computer screen and saw the pictures and said "wtf is all that bullsh!t'. I told her "to the average person it would be just that".

She just doesnt understand.

Keep up the good work.
 

1freaky1

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My gf looked at my computer screen and saw the pictures and said "wtf is all that bullsh!t'. I told her "to the average person it would be just that".

She just doesnt understand.

Keep up the good work.

That is typical of a lot of females none the less. Hey still got to love'em tho.
 

dangerranger83

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Like a bad cold maybe.
 

1freaky1

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Well on Saturday morning it was driven out of the garage for the first time since starting the swap, still need to do the front shocks. Also am having a problem with the 9", the drivers side is locking up like it is the brakes but cannot find anything wrong with them, so not sure what it could be causing it.



 
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SAY789

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Nice!! def time for a wash on her lol
 

1freaky1

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Well I have ran into a few problems with the brakes that is driving me crazy so I am trying to get them straightened out. Front passenger caliper is dragging and locking up and overhearheating. The rear drivers drum is dragging and as of yesterday there is brake fluid dripping out the bottom of the drum.
 

1freaky1

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Well I got the brake problem fixed, the cup inside the caliper was rusted to the caliper and it was out just enough to make contact between the shoe and rotor to where it over heated and locked up the rotor. Replaced the caliper and all is good with that issue, Also fabbed up a new high pressure line for the power steering since the old one was leaking also add a cool little oil cooler to the system. Now the truck is 100% back together and did a highway test drive and found it has some vibrations so now on to an alignment.



Had to break the cup to remove it and see if it was worth rebuilding the caliper.
 
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Josh40601

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truck looks great brother. You don't have any issues with your tierod hitting the Ballistic cover? I couldnt install mine on D because i hit the cover about a 1/4 turn before lock i hit it with the Tirod.
 

1freaky1

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Josh it does hit the cover at close to the same point. For now I just adjusted the stops out enough to stop it from hitting until I take the cover off to put in a locker. Then I am going to cut out the portion the hit and reverse it and weld it back in or get the high steer knuckles and go that route.
 

1freaky1

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Well after the last two test drives the rear brakes have been dragging. I had some time today and tinkered with the truck, had this idea as for the ABS light staying on since the three sensors are no longer used I would put a jumper wire on each of them and see what happens. That did take care of the light but also had another effect on the truck it released the rear brakes from dragging like they have been doing! So this tells me that the ABS module has to have a constant signal to allow the module to relieve the pressure from the brakes when the pedal is not pushed. Now wondering what will happen when the brakes actually do lock up since the sensors are removed from doing the SAS.
 

Ford78

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Why didint u just take all the abs out and go straight from the master. Mine seems to work pretty good with the big brakes up front and the disc conversion in the back.
 
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