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WTF?! Body mounts rusted off front clip


PetesPonies

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The repair looks tidy. Seal the seams well before paint.
 


shane96ranger

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The repair looks tidy. Seal the seams well before paint.
Agreed. It looks nice. I am going to fill mine with expanding foam and then POR-15 and paint it to keep the rust away.
 

PetesPonies

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DO NOT fill with foam; DO NOT. Painting with a good product is helpful. Let me suggest Master Series as opposed to POR. I do not liker the results of POR,
 

PetesPonies

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It attracts and captures moisture.
 

shane96ranger

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It attracts and captures moisture.
I'm not trying to be a douche, but do you have something I could look at to show me evidence of that? I've used the stuff in my house, and shed with zero ill effects - some of it has been applied for over 5 years. It says it's waterproof right on the can.
 

PetesPonies

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I've been restoring cars and taught autobody for over 30 years. Your house is different. Rust starts mainly from an area in which it not not given the opportunity to dry out. take a bare piece of steel and throw it out in the yard. It will get surface rust quickly, but not rust through. It is given a drying time after moisture times. In closed areas on a car, the moisture never gets out. That is why areas rust easily on some designs. I didn't say foam was bad for a house . we are talking about a car. Do what you want . . the internet is for opinions. I gave mine.
 

shane96ranger

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I've been restoring cars and taught autobody for over 30 years. Your house is different. Rust starts mainly from an area in which it not not given the opportunity to dry out. take a bare piece of steel and throw it out in the yard. It will get surface rust quickly, but not rust through. It is given a drying time after moisture times. In closed areas on a car, the moisture never gets out. That is why areas rust easily on some designs. I didn't say foam was bad for a house . we are talking about a car. Do what you want . . the internet is for opinions. I gave mine.
I think you've taken me the wrong way. I wasn't saying you were wrong, I was only asking how you gained that knowledge - hoping you could explain your experiences. I know you've done great body work that I really admire. I wasn't trying to sound like I knew more, just giving examples of my experience. Sorry if I came off like that, but I tried to explain in my first sentence that it was not my intent.


Have you by chance used this stuff from Eastwood?

http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coating-w-spray-nozzle.html
 

PetesPonies

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I didn't take it wrong. Was just pointing out that from my experience, I would not do that.
 

88B2EB

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The repair looks tidy. Seal the seams well before paint.
As always Pete thanks for your good comments.

I laughed a bit though when you wrote "before paint", and I don't mean any offense to you, but painting that new panel is like trying to polish a turd. It just doesn't make sense. The truck is too old, has too many miles, and is waaay too rusty to care what the paint looks like inside the engine compartment. The new rad support has a good finish from the factory that I have to believe is better than the rusted out panels I connected it to. When I get back to working on the Bronco that'll be a different story but as far as the Ranger it's always been more of a 'make it work' approach.

As an Architect I'll say that closed cell foam does not attract and capture moisture. Some builder's even use expanded foam in lieu of a traditional moisture barrier on exterior walls. I can also see though where it might trap moisture on metal. Walls breathe, car panels don't.
 

killj0y

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Threads like that's make me glad I live in south Texas, the only salt I see is from the beach :cool:
 

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I fixed mine so it wont happen again. I simply replaced the entire core support with box tubing.lol












I managed to get the hood latch to line up perfect on my first try. Poppe the rubber bumper off the stock hood stops and popped them over the head of a 5/16 bolt to make the new ones.

 

Mark_88

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I fixed mine so it wont happen again. I simply replaced the entire core support with box tubing.lol












I managed to get the hood latch to line up perfect on my first try. Poppe the rubber bumper off the stock hood stops and popped them over the head of a 5/16 bolt to make the new ones.

Awesome job on that....

May I suggest, perhaps, turning on a light when you take pics...lol...I could see everything but not as clearly as I'd like to...you know I can't copy that work without seeing the fine details...:icon_thumby:
 

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I'm not trying to be a douche, but do you have something I could look at to show me evidence of that? I've used the stuff in my house, and shed with zero ill effects - some of it has been applied for over 5 years. It says it's waterproof right on the can.
I've been restoring cars and taught autobody for over 30 years. Your house is different. Rust starts mainly from an area in which it not not given the opportunity to dry out. take a bare piece of steel and throw it out in the yard. It will get surface rust quickly, but not rust through. It is given a drying time after moisture times. In closed areas on a car, the moisture never gets out. That is why areas rust easily on some designs. I didn't say foam was bad for a house . we are talking about a car. Do what you want . . the internet is for opinions. I gave mine.
I think you've taken me the wrong way. I wasn't saying you were wrong, I was only asking how you gained that knowledge - hoping you could explain your experiences. I know you've done great body work that I really admire. I wasn't trying to sound like I knew more, just giving examples of my experience. Sorry if I came off like that, but I tried to explain in my first sentence that it was not my intent.


Have you by chance used this stuff from Eastwood?

http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coating-w-spray-nozzle.html
I completely agree, do not use expanding foam. I've only been in the collision business for 8-9 years and I've seen enough. Manufacturers use expanding foam (better quality than great stuff of course), and thats always where the cars rust first. Many cars, when you remove the rear quarterpanel, will have some sort of foam somewhere, and its always starting to rust around there because it traps the moisture. I think the best example of expanding foam failure is Dodge Stratus'...they fill the rocker panels with foam, and those suckers all rusted out within a few years. Proper seam sealer, and good weld-through primer will do tons in keeping the rust away, I also suggest painting the core support BEFORE installing it, and touching it up after installing it if you weld it in.

For rust proofing between the panels and such, I would go with a product like "Honey Coat" from Crest, or "Rust Figher" from 3m, they're both a wax based product that will run into every little nook and cranny, that stuff from eastwood just looks like a self etch primer to me, though I'm sure it helps!
 
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PlumCrazy

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Those were pics I took with my old cell phone.lol.

-PlumCrazy
 

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