wont stay running in gear

[88mudder]

i just got a 289v8 powerer ranger with a c4 automatic slapshift. I was told the trans has a higher stahl converter. The truck runs when i start it up, electric fuel pump works great. It seems to idle okay but kinda stumbles here and there. As soon as i depress the brake then put it into drive gear or reverse the truck stalls out. Ive ran a stock 2bbl and a 4bbl and they both run the same. Any ideas here?

 

[thomasakehoe]

Not positive of anything but had a similar situation with the first Ranger I ever owned was a 2.9L V6 with auto trans and ended up being a problem with the stall converter not unlocking I ended up driving back and forth from high school having to start it in Neutral rev it up and drop it in drive for about a week til I had the cash to get it fixed

 

[88mudder]

Not positive of anything but had a similar situation with the first Ranger I ever owned was a 2.9L V6 with auto trans and ended up being a problem with the stall converter not unlocking I ended up driving back and forth from high school having to start it in Neutral rev it up and drop it in drive for about a week til I had the cash to get it fixed

right right. Do u mean the torque converter right? Some ppl have been tellin me thats the problem so im thinkin about replacing it! Thx for the reply.

 

[baddad457]

C-4's don't have lockup converters. Crank it back up and take a can of spray carb cleaner and spray all around the intake and carb, I'll bet you've got a vacuum leak somewhere. The carb cleaner will find it for you. You'll know when that happens. If nothing happens doing this, spray where the vacuum line goes into the power brake booster. There should also be another vaccum line down behind the intake to the right rear of the transmission. This is the modulator valve line, the modulator valve regulates the shift points when the transmission in in drive. The modulator valve screws into the rear of the main case and the line plugs into this from the rear. One more vacuum leak source is a busted diaphram inside the power brake booster, only way to find it is to listen for it.

 

[88mudder]

C-4's don't have lockup converters. Crank it back up and take a can of spray carb cleaner and spray all around the intake and carb, I'll bet you've got a vacuum leak somewhere. The carb cleaner will find it for you. You'll know when that happens. If nothing happens doing this, spray where the vacuum line goes into the power brake booster. There should also be another vaccum line down behind the intake to the right rear of the transmission. This is the modulator valve line, the modulator valve regulates the shift points when the transmission in in drive. The modulator valve screws into the rear of the main case and the line plugs into this from the rear. One more vacuum leak source is a busted diaphram inside the power brake booster, only way to find it is to listen for it.

my c4 has a manual vlave body and a slap shift. Im not sure if it has that trans vac hose, it might. I will try the carb cleaner idea tomorrow thx!

 

[mudranger]

Yep, that sounds EXACTLY like the vacuam leak I had when I had my 4 banger. The carb was loose at the base, so check that. Also, check all those little vacuam hoses for cracks or splits.....the carb cleaner trick works very well, and you can also listen very carefully for the leak....You will know right away you fixed it because the second you plug it the hissing will stop and the idle will smooth right out.

 

[88mudder]

i dont wanna buy a new torque converter and have it not work...is there a way to test it off the car? With my 4bbl on there it doesnt make any hissing noises but do u think i still could have a vac leak somewhere?

 

[baddad457]

No way to test a converter off the transmission. Vacuum leaks seldom make hissing noises. Use carb cleaner.