wont start

[Briguy]

My trusty truck "Rusty" a 1987 2.9L hasn't started in three years. went driving in the field one day and it suddenly cut out and I haven't got it to start since. Changed fuel pump relay, fuel pump, computer, nothing seems to have done it yet. any help would be appreciated

 

[ericbphoto]

Start with the 50-50 test. Spray fuel or starting fluid into the intake and try to start. If it fires and tries to run, then you have a fuel issue. If it won't fire at all, then you have a spark/timing issue. This test tells you what direction to go with your troubleshooting.

 

[RonD]

Welcome to TRS

Spray some gasoline or Quick Start(ether) into the intake and see if it fires up, called 50/50 test
If it does fire then spark is OK and at the right timing(or close, lol), so its a fuel issue
If it doesn't fire then you have no spark
50/50 instant results

On 1989 2.9l the TFI module was the weak link in the spark system, on the side of distributor
This system does NOT need the engine computer to work
Engine computer just runs the fuel injection part up thru 1994 in Rangers

1989 Ranger should have a CEL(check engine light) on the dash
When you turn on the key the CEL should come on, that means computer has power(12volts) and has booted up, no CEL means computer is OFF, it usually also means Spark has no 12volts either

If there is a CEL then try to start engine, as soon as engine is turning the CEL should go OFF, that means the computer is getting a timing signal from TFI module
If CEL stays on then it isn't

When you turn on the key that activates the EEC Relay in engine bay, EEC Relay sends power to computer(EEC) and spark system
So no EEC activation = no start up

Starter motor is a totally separate system, no connection to spark module or computer

And as a heads up
There is NO gasoline in the gas tank after 3 years
What ever is in there quit being gasoline at least a year ago

 

[Briguy]

Start with the 50-50 test. Spray fuel or starting fluid into the intake and try to start. If it fires and tries to run, then you have a fuel issue. If it won't fire at all, then you have a spark/timing issue. This test tells you what direction to go with your troubleshooting.

Did that ran for a little then died

 

[Briguy]

Welcome to TRS

Spray some gasoline or Quick Start(ether) into the intake and see if it fires up, called 50/50 test
If it does fire then spark is OK and at the right timing(or close, lol), so its a fuel issue
If it doesn't fire then you have no spark
50/50 instant results

On 1989 2.9l the TFI module was the weak link in the spark system, on the side of distributor
This system does NOT need the engine computer to work
Engine computer just runs the fuel injection part up thru 1994 in Rangers

1989 Ranger should have a CEL(check engine light) on the dash
When you turn on the key the CEL should come on, that means computer has power(12volts) and has booted up, no CEL means computer is OFF, it usually also means Spark has no 12volts either

If there is a CEL then try to start engine, as soon as engine is turning the CEL should go OFF, that means the computer is getting a timing signal from TFI module
If CEL stays on then it isn't

When you turn on the key that activates the EEC Relay in engine bay, EEC Relay sends power to computer(EEC) and spark system
So no EEC activation = no start up

Starter motor is a totally separate system, no connection to spark module or computer

And as a heads up
There is NO gasoline in the gas tank after 3 years
What ever is in there quit being gasoline at least a year ago

Already replaced fuel pump and gas tank and replaced with new fuel this year. Did the ether test ran for two seconds then died

 

[Dirt Squirt]

Unsure if your year has fuel pump crash cut-off switch. If so check/reset. Had same problem with a Mustang 5.0 after a romp in a field.

 

[RonD]

Then fuel delivery is the issue, spark is working

Does the CEL work?


On passenger side of engine just below upper intake is the fuel pressure test port, looks like a tires air valve, works the same way, may still have screw on cap like a tire valve does
Remove cap
Cycle key on and off a few times, you should HEAR the fuel pumps run each time, if not then thats the problem, new pumps but not working, there are two pumps in 1987 Ranger

Test if there is pressure in the system, i.e. push in the center pin like you would on a tires air valve, but be careful, should be 30+PSI pressure in there so fuel should squirt out
If not then that's at least part of the problem, no fuel at the engine

If there is pressure, even a little then engine should have stayed running after 50/50 test IF................
the fuel injectors are working
The Computer runs the fuel injectors, so it may not be turned on(is CEL on?)

 

[Briguy]

Unsure if your year has fuel pump crash cut-off switch. If so check/reset. Had same problem with a Mustang 5.0 after a romp in a field.

Bypassed the inertia switch didn't help

 

[Briguy]

Then fuel delivery is the issue, spark is working

Does the CEL work?


On passenger side of engine just below upper intake is the fuel pressure test port, looks like a tires air valve, works the same way, may still have screw on cap like a tire valve does
Remove cap
Cycle key on and off a few times, you should HEAR the fuel pumps run each time, if not then thats the problem, new pumps but not working, there are two pumps in 1987 Ranger

Test if there is pressure in the system, i.e. push in the center pin like you would on a tires air valve, but be careful, should be 30+PSI pressure in there so fuel should squirt out
If not then that's at least part of the problem, no fuel at the engine

If there is pressure, even a little then engine should have stayed running after 50/50 test IF................
the fuel injectors are working
The Computer runs the fuel injectors, so it may not be turned on(is CEL on?)

Both pumps work. When I bypass on the fuel pump relay connector I can get the pump to run. Pump does not run when the key is switched on.

 

[ericbphoto]

On your data link connector is a port tied to the ground side of the fuel pump relay ground. Use a piece of wire to jumper that port to ground and see if the fuel pump relay energizes and pump runs. This test bypasses the computer to see if the relay works and verifies that the pcm power relay is supplying power to the fuel pump relay coil.

 

[RonD]

Fuel pumps only run for 2 SECONDS with key on, then will not start full time until engine is running, above 400RPM
You can cycle key OFF and then back on and pumps will run another 2 seconds, each time you do that

You can leave the fuel pump jumper in place, it won't hurt anything, and see if engine starts and stays running
If not then injectors are not opening, computer runs them

 

[Briguy]

On your data link connector is a port tied to the ground side of the fuel pump relay ground. Use a piece of wire to jumper that port to ground and see if the fuel pump relay energizes and pump runs. This test bypasses the computer to see if the relay works and verifies that the pcm power relay is supplying power to the fuel pump relay coil.

Tried that, I hear and feel a clicking from the ECM relay, pump still does not run.

 

[Briguy]

Fuel pumps only run for 2 SECONDS with key on, then will not start full time until engine is running, above 400RPM
You can cycle key OFF and then back on and pumps will run another 2 seconds, each time you do that

You can leave the fuel pump jumper in place, it won't hurt anything, and see if engine starts and stays running
If not then injectors are not opening, computer runs them

I jumpered it and the pump stays going I then had fuel in the fuel rail. Tried starting and would not start. Turned off pump right away because I'm scared it was gonna break a line or something lol

 

[RonD]

Can't "break a line", its OK to leave fuel pump running while testing.............it will use battery power though

 

[Shran]

Yeah the pump running will not hurt anything, the fuel pressure regulator will allow excess fuel to return to the tank.

Check the smaller ground wire that is supposed to be connected to your negative battery terminal. It should have a round connector about 6-8" down the wire and then split off into two wires... that's the ground for the ECM and fuel pump, if it's not connected or has corroded off, you will have this exact issue...seen it happen a lot.