will a hot alternator kill an engine

[Shran]

Coil is easy, test voltage to it hot and cold by probing the connector that plugs into it... then test the coil itself by seeing if you have spark. Power to the coil and no spark = bad coil.

Think you need an oscilloscope to test the EDIS module accurately, it is basically just an electronic distributor that tells the coil when to fire. They rarely fail but it's possible. I believe you could test the crank sensor with a scope too, it generates AC voltage, you would want to see pulses there...an analog multimeter on AC mode might also give you an idea if it's working or not.

I don't know why issues with those parts would show up warm at low idle. May end up having nothing to do with those things, just throwing out what comes to mind first. If you're sure it's not fuel related... I'm not sure what else would cause it, especially not starting again after it dies.

I've had some really weird issues over the years. One was a seemingly random zero voltage at the fuel pump, would just not work occasionally. I finally traced it down to a relay that would soak up moisture from who knows where and stick open. Had an F250 that would try to start itself with nobody in the truck and the ignition off... horn button on a Ranger that would start honking the horn in sub zero temperatures by itself.

 

[bobbywalter]

Hot or cold absolutely affects ignition issues.

It's classic

 

[4x4prepper]

Sometimes the easier way to test a coil is to look at the epoxy for cracks or tracking.