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Which one is alternator output connection at starter relay?

tw205

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What's the battery voltage key OFF?

Just after startup Voltage regulator will use +2volts, so 12.8v battery would see 14.8volt

After a few minutes voltage regulator should drop it down to +1volt, so 13.8volt

There is not an actual "number" the voltage regulator uses "push back" voltage/AMPs
Just after starting, the battery is drained so low "push back"
As battery gets recharged "push back" goes up so voltage regulator lowers voltage, actually AMPs, but in this case you measure the voltage

When you turn on all the lights "push back" in the system drops a bit so voltage regulator increases the AMPs, so you would see a voltage drop and then voltage would come back up once the lights were on, so AMPs were increased to match system "push back"

The Yellow wire on voltage regulator reads the "push back" in the system, I would test that it reads EXACTLY battery voltage with Key OFF
If it reads a little less then there is corrosion in that wire or at is connection to battery, which can be a fuse or fusible link
The corrosion cause low "push back" all the time so higher voltage all the time, which is bad for the battery, but it makes the lights brighter, lol

You can do this test after engine has been running for at least 10min
Engine on
Lights off
Heater fan off or Low
Test battery voltage, lets say it is 14.2volts
Turn on all the lights, turn fan to HIGH
test battery volts
Should still be 14.2volts
If its lower, like 13.9volts then voltage regulator is "stuck", its not adjusting voltage/amp output to the system
Right now key off battery is 12.92. Yellow wire at regulator is same 12.92. I’ll take her for a run and do that second test you gave. I’ll hit you back with results. Thanks.
 


tw205

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What's the battery voltage key OFF?

Just after startup Voltage regulator will use +2volts, so 12.8v battery would see 14.8volt

After a few minutes voltage regulator should drop it down to +1volt, so 13.8volt

There is not an actual "number" the voltage regulator uses "push back" voltage/AMPs
Just after starting, the battery is drained so low "push back"
As battery gets recharged "push back" goes up so voltage regulator lowers voltage, actually AMPs, but in this case you measure the voltage

When you turn on all the lights "push back" in the system drops a bit so voltage regulator increases the AMPs, so you would see a voltage drop and then voltage would come back up once the lights were on, so AMPs were increased to match system "push back"

The Yellow wire on voltage regulator reads the "push back" in the system, I would test that it reads EXACTLY battery voltage with Key OFF
If it reads a little less then there is corrosion in that wire or at is connection to battery, which can be a fuse or fusible link
The corrosion cause low "push back" all the time so higher voltage all the time, which is bad for the battery, but it makes the lights brighter, lol

You can do this test after engine has been running for at least 10min
Engine on
Lights off
Heater fan off or Low
Test battery voltage, lets say it is 14.2volts
Turn on all the lights, turn fan to HIGH
test battery volts
Should still be 14.2volts
If its lower, like 13.9volts then voltage regulator is "stuck", its not adjusting voltage/amp output to the system
So I took her for a run. Got home left it running battery 14.70. Turned on headlights battery 14.68. Turned fan on high and left lights on battery jumping 13.8 then down 13.6 back up then down 13.5 then back up and down 13.4. Then I turned it off. Dash gauge allway runs on high side until you hit the fan and then it dives
 

RonD

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That's an odd one for sure

Turn off engine, key on, then test battery voltage with fan on high, also with lights on
Want to see if its the fan circuit or alternator circuit
Looking for steady voltage no up and down even a little
 

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In the photo you can see where I have the nylon cable tie around the alternator and the black and white pigtail connector. I'd like to use a stainless steel cable tie or a little metal screw clamp instead. Would either of these cause any electrical interference with the alternator?P_20211018_185211.jpg

I'm going to start making consumer complaints about these plastic retainer clips. I'm tired of these things breaking.
 

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In the photo you can see where I have the nylon cable tie around the alternator and the black and white pigtail connector. I'd like to use a stainless steel cable tie or a little metal screw clamp instead. Would either of these cause any electrical interference with the alternator?View attachment 67193

I'm going to start making consumer complaints about these plastic retainer clips. I'm tired of these things breaking.
You're probably better off just making a proper wiring repair here. We all have done quick repairs to get home or rig it until it can be repaired properly. Sometimes they even last forever... others they fail again when you least need it too.

Most connectors have a sweet spot... they usually jump apart when you find it. Maybe try going at disconnecting things with a bit more finesse and thoughtfulness.
 

tw205

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That's an odd one for sure

Turn off engine, key on, then test battery voltage with fan on high, also with lights on
Want to see if its the fan circuit or alternator circuit
Looking for steady voltage no up and down even a little
Key on engine off 12.4 lights on 12.2 lights off fan on 12.2 both lights and fan 12.1.
 

RonD

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If no jumping around then I would say voltage regulator in alternator is the issue
 

tw205

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If no jumping around then I would say voltage regulator in alternator is the issue
I replace the alternator with a used one, no change. Ran her into town and had the one I took off tested. Passed twice.
The blower motor I have is a replacement unit I bought from bronco graveyard. I have two of them. Swapped them with no change. Could this blower motor type just pull more than this rig can handle?
I’m a bit confused in that with no load and warmed up she never charges less than 14.3. Is that normal? I thought is should drop closer to 13.8. 1/2 volt is likely moot.

I pulled the fuse at the power distribution for the fuse panel as well thinking something could be drawing power keeping it at a higher output but no change either.
I’m going to clean the posts on the solenoid and then I’m lost. Kinda am already.
Thanks for your assistance. I’ll keep after it till the cows come home.
 

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There is no way I could have removed that alternator connector more carefully without breaking the clip.
 

Paisano

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Those plastic clips will break no matter how careful you are. I no longer go to service garages. But when I did, I used to find where mechanics broke the connector retaining clips without bothering to repair or tell me about it,

I was looking again at Robbie's suggestion of removing the wedge and wire terminals from the pigtail connector. I am a bit leery........but open-minded about trying this in the future.

1. How do you remove the wire leads from the connector
2. Is there any soldering involved?
3. Is the wedge the one with the clips?
4. When replacing the part with the retaining clips, do you simply push the wire leads back into the connector? What makes the wires stay in the terminal?
 

RonD

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Most automotive connectors use single tab, some double
Each wire has a metal pin crimped on to its end, this pin has the tab/barb

When pin is slid in all the way the tab springs out and holds the pin in place inside plastic connector
You can use a small flat blade screwdriver to push the tab back while pulling on the wire and pin will slide back out

Seen here: https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71LqhgzeE9L._AC_SL1500_.jpg
 

Jazzer

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If you save the stainless steel flat rods from worn out wipers, they’re about 1/32” thick and 1/8 “ wide and make a good tool to unclip wire terminals, clean out caulking tube nozzles, pull wires through grommets, and many other uses.

-Jazzer
 

Paisano

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I also learned there is something called a de-pinning tool for re-installing the clip retainer
 

RonD

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Good to disconnect 1 battery terminal when working with any connectors but especially alternator connectors since the yellow wire has 12volts full time
 

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I have a 92' Ranger XLT with 2.9 V6. I need to test my alternator/voltage regulator for excessive voltage, with my multi-meter. The instructions in the manual say connect the positive lead to the alternator output connection at the starter relay. I included a photo of the starter relay. Which one is the alternator output connection?

View attachment 66506
It is the big black wire coming out of the fuse box. The yellow wire comes directly of the alt to the inside of the fuse box, 40 amp fuse. The black and orange wire comes off the alt to the front side of the fuse box , 60 amp fuse. Those 2 wires run all the way across and behind the radiator support. I have a picture of that harness because I used those wires on a 88 that is giving me fits.
 

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