Which is better: coil springs or torsion bars?

[Josh B]

I at least discovered I have a front sway bar that runs across the front to both sides, no torsion bar or twin I beams, and that the kingpin got cut in two to allow the front drive shaft to get through there

I also know it does great cornering

 

[cbxer55]

So,, now we have sway bars, anti-sway bars, and T-bars. I'm beginning to get dizzy trying to sort this out

They are truly anti-sway bars. They work to prevent the vehicle from swaying, or leaning. A lot of people are just too lazy to type the whole thing out, so they become sway bars. And it's a bar running side-to-side. When the vehicle leans in a corner, one side pushes down on it's arm, the other pulls up. So they are trying to twist the bar longitudinally in opposite directions. The bars resistance to twisting prevents the vehicle from leaning too much. The larger the diameter, the more resistance. Which is what Hellwig anti-sway bars are, considerably larger in diameter than the stock ones. Hotchkiss bars sound like they are stronger, because they are bigger in diameter. But, they're hollow. OOPS!! They're lighter, but not as strong. I have a chart at home, I'll post it tomorrow. Hellwig bars are smaller in diameter, but considerably stronger in their resistance to twisting, than Hotchkiss bars are.

 

[JohnnyO]

Do they both handle the same on the road?

Yes. I've owned both. No difference in daily driving. Off-road, coils will have more travel.
A torsion bar is essentially a straight coil spring and twists instead if being compressed.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Do they both handle the same on the road?

There is a ot more to a suspension than just the springs.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

So, my first Ranger was a 2000 extended cab 2wd 3.0 5-speed. Coils and A-arms in the front. Front sway bar, no rear bar. I liked it better after I beefed up the rear leaf packs and got a limited slip in it.

My green Ranger is a 2000 extended cab 4x4 4.0 auto, which if I can get it completed is now AWD 5.0 auto, has torsion bars and has front and rear sway bars. The rear leaf packs were shot and I thought it handled about like a pig compared to my first. Upgrading the leaf springs, which by itself would have been a big improvement, was in the plans when the 5R555 decided to puke. At the time it was believed that the 4.0 had a rear main leak, so I dove into the swap I wasn’t fully ready for. Turned out it was bad valve cover gaskets leaking down the back of the block but it was too late to go back then.

At any rate, I think it really depends on what you’re trying to do. Any suspension can be tuned to a particular purpose, but some types do better with certain things. What the auto makers build is nothing but a set of compromises. They have to be fit for the road and beyond that they cater to the mass market. That’s largely road comfort. All of the common suspensions can be tuned for road comfort. But some do it better. Struts are essentially cheap coil-overs.

Leafs are common in the off-roading world still, despite not being particularly flexible without some customizing. Coils and coil-overs are the preferred because flex and adjustment is easy. Don’t like it, swap it for a different one or adjust the mounts. Not much to them. T-bars work. They make for an alright ride on or off road, but they are a compromise for both. But where they shine is adjustability. From the factory you can dial up or down a couple inches and not significantly affect ride outside of being closer to the end limits of suspension travel. Keys to get more travel in one or the other direction just go on the ends and adjust with bolts like factory. Easy and cheap.

 

[19Walt93]

Both coil springs and torsion bars work fine it just depends on which one you have room for.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

They both do bouncy things.

T bars are cheap to lift a little. Coils are cheaper to lift a lot.

Leafs are cheap to lift alot alot if you dont care about spring wrap lol

 

[Lefty]

They are truly anti-sway bars. They work to prevent the vehicle from swaying, or leaning. A lot of people are just too lazy to type the whole thing out, so they become sway bars. And it's a bar running side-to-side. When the vehicle leans in a corner, one side pushes down on it's arm, the other pulls up. So they are trying to twist the bar longitudinally in opposite directions. The bars resistance to twisting prevents the vehicle from leaning too much. The larger the diameter, the more resistance. Which is what Hellwig anti-sway bars are, considerably larger in diameter than the stock ones. Hotchkiss bars sound like they are stronger, because they are bigger in diameter. But, they're hollow. OOPS!! They're lighter, but not as strong. I have a chart at home, I'll post it tomorrow. Hellwig bars are smaller in diameter, but considerably stronger in their resistance to twisting, than Hotchkiss bars are.

Good to know. But even with the sway bars, oops anti sway bars, I noticed that the rear end was still prone to sway and also suffered from axle wrap. That's why I mounted leaf spring clamps on the rear. You bolt them on to the the spring pack 5-6" in front of the axle. I will also look up Hellwigs,

 

[Lefty]

I see that SD Truck Springs.com is selling 11/8" sway bars for $292.00 and free shipping.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I just put a 34mm front bar on my green Ranger from an Explorer. 98-01 Explorers had those and they fit exactly like the Ranger one. 95-97 Explorers have a 36mm front bar but it mounts different. Not saying it can’t be made to work though, but I had the 34mm already and it was bigger than the Ranger bar.

 

[Lefty]

I just put a 34mm front bar on my green Ranger from an Explorer. 98-01 Explorers had those and they fit exactly like the Ranger one. 95-97 Explorers have a 36mm front bar but it mounts different. Not saying it can’t be made to work though, but I had the 34mm already and it was bigger than the Ranger bar.

I read you had a little set back. You haven't had a chance to try it yet. Correct?

 

[cbxer55]

Good to know. But even with the sway bars, oops anti sway bars, I noticed that the rear end was still prone to sway and also suffered from axle wrap. That's why I mounted leaf spring clamps on the rear. You bolt them on to the the spring pack 5-6" in front of the axle. I will also look up Hellwigs,

Look closely at the pic I posted on Page 1. You can barely see a black Lakewood traction bar extending forward from the tire. These clamp to the spring also. These are specifically made for the Ranger, oddly enough. They mount perfectly, and place the snubber about one half inch from the lower surface of the spring, right behind the eye, which is ideal. It's not ideal to have the snubber hit the eye. And so, when things start to wrap up, that half inch disappears in a New York City Minute, and no wrap. Mine used to have horrible wheel hop. Not anymore. Those traction bars have been on there since I put the Hellwig anti-sway bars on it in 2002.

 

[scotts90ranger]

I don't think it makes a huge difference in stock form, it REALLY depends on what you are going for... Just taking Ranger suspensions into play it would make more sense to just separate them into beam style suspension and short and long suspension arm style suspension (all non Edge 4x2's are coil spring and Edge 4x2 and all other '98 up 4x4 are torsion bar but all have two suspension arms on both sides) and they behave very differently. Torsion bars by themselves are basically a coil spring stretched out into a straight line with a linkage on the end to push on the suspension arm... it's just a spacial thing in that it takes up less room going behind the axle than above it, leaves a little more room for underhood junk...

In stockish form it doesn't really matter, my two V8 Explorers are fully stock with torsion bars and both sway bars and they handle and ride great as they are, either are 1500 pounds heavier than my '97 Ranger and handle better... but they both have two sway bars where the Ranger just has one and the weight balance on a sploder is way better so it's apples and potatoes . For me I like the beam style suspension better than A arms because it's easier to modify and do what I want... Both the Explorers are beat to death and one is a Limited with rear air shocks and one an Eddie Bauer with 4 wheel air shocks so both have lighter leaf springs and I think one has lighter T bars but haven't looked for labels... I have cranked the T bars on both to adjust things which you can't do with coil springs so there's that...

 

[Lefty]

Look closely at the pic I posted on Page 1. You can barely see a black Lakewood traction bar extending forward from the tire. These clamp to the spring also. These are specifically made for the Ranger, oddly enough. They mount perfectly, and place the snubber about one half inch from the lower surface of the spring, right behind the eye, which is ideal. It's not ideal to have the snubber hit the eye. And so, when things start to wrap up, that half inch disappears in a New York City Minute, and no wrap. Mine used to have horrible wheel hop. Not anymore. Those traction bars have been on there since I put the Hellwig anti-sway bars on it in 2002.

Like this? Or like this?

 

[Josh B]

So now we have anti sway university. Intentional or not, great job guys, thanks!