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Which auto-locking hub technology was used on Gen 3?...


fixizin

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... call it 1993-97... The Tech Library is all about Gen 4/PVH/1998-2000, but which hubs did the previous models use, and if they didn't use vacuum, how DID they engage/disengage?
 


RonD

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Pre-PVH Auto Hubs were torque driven/engaged

When the front driveshaft was Powered by shifting transfer case to 4H or 4L the front axle would start to turn, this torque caused the front Auto Hubs to engaged the wheels
When you shifted back to 2WD the axles lose power which caused the unlock...........but not always
It was recommended to stop and back up 50-75 feet to unlock the Auto Hubs

The mechanics of it come down to, the axles could turn the wheels but the wheels couldn't turn the axles

Think of a bicycle chain drive that can "coast", if you pedal you power the rear wheel(its locked to pedals) but if you stop pedaling the pedals don't keep turning because the rear wheel is turning, so rear wheel is unlocked from the pedals at that time allowing "coasting"
 
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racsan

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Great analogy, I never thought of it that way. My ‘93 had those but got replaced with mile marker manual hubs, the auto hubs didnt always work , the manuals always did.
 

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Yes, manual was/is always more reliable than "auto" anything, lol

But most people want convenience over function and car makers make what sells, and automatic anything sells better than manual.
So we are our worst enemy on this, lol

The 1997 and earlier Auto Hub parts can be found but are disappearing, manual conversion is a better way to spend your money, in my opinion

And because the front differential is an OPEN type if only 1 Auto hub locks then you don't have 3WD you still just have 2WD because the unlocked wheel's axle gets all the power from transfer case, none goes to the Locked wheel
 
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fixizin

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I still like the PVH jobbies, lots of metal-to-metal engagement, it's mostly the upstream vac hoses that go bad.

... because the front differential is an OPEN type...

Strangely, happily, back when my hubs worked, my D35 behaved like a LOCKER--pulled like a tractor, both front wheels, even in sandy soil, AND... when I would roll backwards downslope in neutral, on pavement, and turned the wheel to back into an alley, the front wheels would skid, and almost to a stop!... is it "pinned" 'cause I got the "Sport" pkg??:dntknw:
 

RonD

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Yes, but the problem is they DO GO BAD, lol, and you only find out when you NEED 4WD
Generally manual hubs just work, so are more reliable

All Rangers, and most 4x4s, have OPEN front differentials, there was no limited slip or locker option

OPEN doesn't mean only 1 wheel gets power all the time, it means the easiest to turn or fastest spinning axle gets the power
Most rear differentials are OPEN and they do just fine :)
Not as good as limited slip or lockers but also don't cost as much
 

fixizin

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A properly suspensioned Ranger can be safely airborne for up to 4 seconds at a time! =:O
The prob with manual hubs on Rangers--at least my 4th Gen--is they're so easy to STEAL with that lame snap-on arrangement, and most of the fake center caps won't fit and thus conceal them.

The PVHs on the other hand are kind of a pain to get off with those 12 separate tabs, plus... NOBODY WANTS THEM, home safe and dry, lol...
 

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Just keep the factory plastic covers on the manual hubs and nobody even knows you have them. I forget that I have them on mine.
 

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