When Was the Timing Chain Rattle in the SOHC 4.0 Fixed?

[gw33gp]

I don't remember removing the thermostat housing and idler pulley the first time I replaced the driver side tensioner. I did remove the throttle body and the temperature sensors in the thermostat housing. It has been a long time ago so I may have forgotten everything I did.

 

[sgtsandman]

I never tried the removal with the thermostat housing in. With how little room there is, even with my small hands, I'm not sure I could do it. All the videos I saw on the subject did either what I did or removed the intake manifold like the Service Manual recommends.

Someone on here had a heavily modified deep well socket for the job. With that, it may be possible but not with standard off the shelf tools.

 

[DILLARD000]

Depends on year\model intake manifold; some have better\worse clearance than others for getting to that Left TimingTensioner.
I may be that guy with modified 27mm DeepSocket; ground length short & extension end narrow with bench grinder; simple but takes a little time.
It allowed getting at that Tensioner without removing the Manifold & reduced interference with the Tensioners Gasket\Seal\Washer.
Also relocated\replaced Left TempSensor to get it out of the way; requires an Aluminum TStatHousing, not the stock plastic.
Detailed info at

Engine Oil Pressurized TimingTensioners

As of this 2020 writing, I'm just dumb lucky, not having had any TimingChain component failure with this 20yr old V6-4.0L~SOHC engine; only issue noticed is momentary rattling during very cold morning starts. The recent removal of the lower Oil Pan & Pump Screen was clean, without any...

2001fordexplorersporttrac.fandom.com

Engine Coolant ThermoStat

In early 2019 & 19+ years, the FactoryOE ThermoStat Housing on my 2001 Ford ExplorerSportTrac started to leak per the pics below; at first just an irritation, this leak steadily grew much worse. Under the Throttle on the V6~4.0L~SOHC engines TopFront in several 1997~2012 models, the FactoryOE...

2001fordexplorersporttrac.fandom.com

 

[gw33gp]

Now that you mention it, I think I did remove the intake manifold with the throttle body. I was thinking removing the throttle body would give enough room to take out those sensors. I took a quick look at it and can see the intake manifold does have to come off if you don't remove the thermostat housing.

 

[Arolsma]

Has anyone had a shop replace their timing chain tensioners? If so, how much did it cost? I would like to know how much money to hold back for this when/if I get a 4.0. There is a 2008 on the market I would like to buy, but the seller hasn't yet got back to me weather it is a 3.0 or a 4.0 lol.

 

[adsm08]

I never tried the removal with the thermostat housing in. With how little room there is, even with my small hands, I'm not sure I could do it. All the videos I saw on the subject did either what I did or removed the intake manifold like the Service Manual recommends.

Someone on here had a heavily modified deep well socket for the job. With that, it may be possible but not with standard off the shelf tools.

Bull-shevick. I've done it removing nothing else (albeit in an Explorer, so the throttle body is in a very different spot). All you need is a 27mm wrench.

Has anyone had a shop replace their timing chain tensioners? If so, how much did it cost? I would like to know how much money to hold back for this when/if I get a 4.0. There is a 2008 on the market I would like to buy, but the seller hasn't yet got back to me weather it is a 3.0 or a 4.0 lol.

I've never paid to do it, but I've been paid to do it. Last one I did was in an 04 or 05 Explorer with about half a bazillion miles on it (cop cruiser) and the book time on the job was 24 hours. Plus parts.

 

[DILLARD000]

Depending on the year model & IntakeManifold style, how easily the left OilPressurized TimingTensioner is removed/replaced.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

When the mechanic was paid.

 

[sgtsandman]

Bull-shevick. I've done it removing nothing else (albeit in an Explorer, so the throttle body is in a very different spot). All you need is a 27mm wrench.

Throttle body location and the intake manifold design is the key element here. Both sit right over the tensioner.

On the wrench comment. I did indeed have to use a wrench to get the crush washer to seal as it should and stop leaking oil into the block valley. I don’t know about the OEM washers but specified torque wasn’t enough for the ones supplied by Cloyes.

 

[DILLARD000]

Throttle body location and the intake manifold design is the key element here. Both sit right over the tensioner.
On the wrench comment. I did indeed have to use a wrench to get the crush washer to seal as it should and stop leaking oil into the block valley. I don’t know about the OEM washers but specified torque wasn’t enough for the ones supplied by Cloyes.

Considering the space\slop between Tensioner OD & WasherSeal ID, it's a struggle to keep the Washer\Seal centered,
& depends on how smooth the seat where it lands.
I ended up right at the 49FtLbsMax on the right Tensioner,
but another 10FtLbs+ more plus TeflonSpririlWrapped WasherSeal on left Tensioner to get leak stopped on a scarred seat.

 

[adsm08]

Throttle body location and the intake manifold design is the key element here. Both sit right over the tensioner.

On the wrench comment. I did indeed have to use a wrench to get the crush washer to seal as it should and stop leaking oil into the block valley. I don’t know about the OEM washers but specified torque wasn’t enough for the ones supplied by Cloyes.

I used OEM parts and didn't actually torque it because I was using a wrench.