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When Was the Timing Chain Rattle in the SOHC 4.0 Fixed?


gw33gp

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I don't remember removing the thermostat housing and idler pulley the first time I replaced the driver side tensioner. I did remove the throttle body and the temperature sensors in the thermostat housing. It has been a long time ago so I may have forgotten everything I did.
 


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sgtsandman

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I never tried the removal with the thermostat housing in. With how little room there is, even with my small hands, I'm not sure I could do it. All the videos I saw on the subject did either what I did or removed the intake manifold like the Service Manual recommends.

Someone on here had a heavily modified deep well socket for the job. With that, it may be possible but not with standard off the shelf tools.
 

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Depends on year\model intake manifold; some have better\worse clearance than others for getting to that Left TimingTensioner.
I may be that guy with modified 27mm DeepSocket; ground length short & extension end narrow with bench grinder; simple but takes a little time.
It allowed getting at that Tensioner without removing the Manifold & reduced interference with the Tensioners Gasket\Seal\Washer.
Also relocated\replaced Left TempSensor to get it out of the way; requires an Aluminum TStatHousing, not the stock plastic.
Detailed info at
 

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Now that you mention it, I think I did remove the intake manifold with the throttle body. I was thinking removing the throttle body would give enough room to take out those sensors. I took a quick look at it and can see the intake manifold does have to come off if you don't remove the thermostat housing.
 

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Has anyone had a shop replace their timing chain tensioners? If so, how much did it cost? I would like to know how much money to hold back for this when/if I get a 4.0. There is a 2008 on the market I would like to buy, but the seller hasn't yet got back to me weather it is a 3.0 or a 4.0 lol.
 

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I never tried the removal with the thermostat housing in. With how little room there is, even with my small hands, I'm not sure I could do it. All the videos I saw on the subject did either what I did or removed the intake manifold like the Service Manual recommends.

Someone on here had a heavily modified deep well socket for the job. With that, it may be possible but not with standard off the shelf tools.
Bull-shevick. I've done it removing nothing else (albeit in an Explorer, so the throttle body is in a very different spot). All you need is a 27mm wrench.


Has anyone had a shop replace their timing chain tensioners? If so, how much did it cost? I would like to know how much money to hold back for this when/if I get a 4.0. There is a 2008 on the market I would like to buy, but the seller hasn't yet got back to me weather it is a 3.0 or a 4.0 lol.
I've never paid to do it, but I've been paid to do it. Last one I did was in an 04 or 05 Explorer with about half a bazillion miles on it (cop cruiser) and the book time on the job was 24 hours. Plus parts.
 

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Depending on the year model & IntakeManifold style, how easily the left OilPressurized TimingTensioner is removed/replaced.
 

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Bull-shevick. I've done it removing nothing else (albeit in an Explorer, so the throttle body is in a very different spot). All you need is a 27mm wrench.
Throttle body location and the intake manifold design is the key element here. Both sit right over the tensioner.

On the wrench comment. I did indeed have to use a wrench to get the crush washer to seal as it should and stop leaking oil into the block valley. I don’t know about the OEM washers but specified torque wasn’t enough for the ones supplied by Cloyes.
 

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Throttle body location and the intake manifold design is the key element here. Both sit right over the tensioner.
On the wrench comment. I did indeed have to use a wrench to get the crush washer to seal as it should and stop leaking oil into the block valley. I don’t know about the OEM washers but specified torque wasn’t enough for the ones supplied by Cloyes.
Considering the space\slop between Tensioner OD & WasherSeal ID, it's a struggle to keep the Washer\Seal centered,
& depends on how smooth the seat where it lands.
I ended up right at the 49FtLbsMax on the right Tensioner,
but another 10FtLbs+ more plus TeflonSpririlWrapped WasherSeal on left Tensioner to get leak stopped on a scarred seat.
 

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Throttle body location and the intake manifold design is the key element here. Both sit right over the tensioner.

On the wrench comment. I did indeed have to use a wrench to get the crush washer to seal as it should and stop leaking oil into the block valley. I don’t know about the OEM washers but specified torque wasn’t enough for the ones supplied by Cloyes.
I used OEM parts and didn't actually torque it because I was using a wrench.
 


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