Wheel popped off while driving (!!!) Serious lesson learned. Now replacing manual lock hubs + rotors. Could use some purchasing advice…

[eightynine4x4]

Yeah i think I’ll do regular re torquing for the rest of my life. This could have been the end of that.
I’ll keep my torque wrench and 13/16 sockets in my truck from now on. Maybe I’ll torque them every time i hop in the truck. It’s a 1 minute affair and i use the truck a few times a month.
I’ve looked up some bulge shaped lug nuts. There are a few options. I also measured my wheel bolt cavities size and shape. They’re certainly a little weird. There is no way some lug nut is going to be shaped exactly like their shape, but the bulge design certainly adds a lot more surface area contact. Unless I’m missing some information, like maybe lug nuts were designed to go with these exact wheels. I see these wheels all over the place so i wonder if that’s the case.

I’m going to get some new rotors and pads from rock auto. I figure it’s time to start fresh with safety at this spot, and plus my one rotor is in rough shape now. I had already done my brakes last year but I’ll just get a kit with the pads too. Thinking one of these two below. Anybody have any opinion on either? Seems they are both decently reputable.

More Information for DYNAMIC FRICTION 651299284

More Information for RAYBESTOS 249MH66416R

 

[superj]

i have had lug nuts come loose on one vehicles and i knew something was wrong because it started making noise and had a weird feeling. i got out and looked and you could see the wheel leaning so its was close to the nuts coming completely off the lugs, just not there yet.

i was able to tighten them, and thinking back, probably should have replaced the lugs since they were probably starting to work harden from the wheel moving back and forth but didn't because that is a teenager not knowing about that stuff.

i did have a front wheel lock up on the highway though and thats a ride too. on old vws, there was a washer with a tongue that sat in a groove on the axle stub for the front bearings. that tongue broke off and the wheel just tightened the bearing nut till it locked the bearings up. that was a heck of a surprise at 65mph on a raised road with no guard rail crossing from the island back where i live.

 

[4x4junkie]

I agree that something looks wrong with those nuts. Aluminum wheels often take a different style lug nut than steel wheels. Maybe someone with the original Alcoa wheels like those could chime in.

My BII had those wheels on it originally... It had these dumb Ford nuts with the thin tin shells that the shells tended to fall off after tightening them a few times (hex size is ¾"). I reused those lugs on a set of ProComp Rock-Krawler D-hole steel wheels for years, and briefly on the set of AR Baja something-or-'nother (8-hole) aluminum wheels I have on it now.

But yeah, something about the lugs on eightynine's pic doesn't appear correct (like they're too big/fills up the recess in the wheel too much). We would need to see the seat type to know for sure though.

Yeah i think I’ll do regular re torquing for the rest of my life. This could have been the end of that.
I’ll keep my torque wrench and 13/16 sockets in my truck from now on. Maybe I’ll torque them every time i hop in the truck. It’s a 1 minute affair and i use the truck a few times a month.
I’ve looked up some bulge shaped lug nuts. There are a few options. I also measured my wheel bolt cavities size and shape. They’re certainly a little weird. There is no way some lug nut is going to be shaped exactly like their shape, but the bulge design certainly adds a lot more surface area contact. Unless I’m missing some information, like maybe lug nuts were designed to go with these exact wheels. I see these wheels all over the place so i wonder if that’s the case.

I’m going to get some new rotors and pads from rock auto. I figure it’s time to start fresh with safety at this spot, and plus my one rotor is in rough shape now. I had already done my brakes last year but I’ll just get a kit with the pads too. Thinking one of these two below. Anybody have any opinion on either? Seems they are both decently reputable.

More Information for DYNAMIC FRICTION 651299284

More Information for RAYBESTOS 249MH66416R

I'm also in the camp that you shouldn't have to constantly re-torque your lug nuts (maybe once after 100 miles, then you should be good).
Raybestos was always a good name for brakes in the past, although it's been some years since I last purchased any. Whatever you do get, be sure to also get quality replacement wheel bearing sets and punch out the cheap junk race (with no cone) that these companies still insist on pre-installing into the rotor and replace it with the one from the bearing set.

(assuming you still have the Dana28 axle on your '89)

More Information for NATIONAL A35

 

[eightynine4x4]

I’m going to order new rotors, pads, and manual hubs.
Can anyone give me a rough idea of what parts I should also replace while I’m already removing the rotors?
I have not yet replaced any front seals or beairings. I did all the rears recently but no front stuff.

 

[SenorNoob]

Definitely wheel bearings and seals. All of that will be off with the rotor.

Looks like Timken Set2 for the D28. You'll need 4 of those. And 2 of the 8312 seals.

Would also be a good time to consider spindle bearings and seals.

Dana 35 / 28 Spindle Bearings

 

[eightynine4x4]

I’ve eventually gotta redo my U joints because they rattle a little bit during 4x4, which I only use on rare occasion to get myself unstuck from a ditch or snow. Having trouble finding my Haynes manual.… Does replacing the 4x4 U joints already involve replacing my wheel seals and bearings?

 

[SenorNoob]

Not necessarily replacing, but the rotors and spindles do have to come off to get the shafts out. It would be easier to do it all at the same time. Money permitting of course. While that far into it, how are your ball joints?

 

[eightynine4x4]

Not necessarily replacing, but the rotors and spindles do have to come off to get the shafts out. It would be easier to do it all at the same time. Money permitting of course. While that far into it, how are your ball joints?

The ball joints don’t appear to be that bad. They don’t have any slop / give to them when everything is lifted and free from ground.

I had thought about hiring a shop to do them when I was about to do my drop bracket replacement just so I didn’t have to, and since undoing the drop brackets was already necessary to get to ball joints. But I just did the drop brackets myself and didn’t bother with ball joints. I’m not sure how to evaluate their actual condition, I just know they’re not wiggly. And the shop didn’t say they looked bad when I gave the truck to them to quote the project ($1500 in late 2022). They didn’t convey much info to me. Didn’t say it was a needed project, that’s for sure.

 

[SenorNoob]

Probably not worth the trouble at this time then.

 

[eightynine4x4]

Definitely wheel bearings and seals. All of that will be off with the rotor.

Looks like Timken Set2 for the D28. You'll need 4 of those. And 2 of the 8312 seals.

Would also be a good time to consider spindle bearings and seals.

Dana 35 / 28 Spindle Bearings

Wont I need a pair of inner bearings and a pair of outer bearings? Instead of 4 identical bearings?
You’d mentioned getting four Timken SET2’s.
But shouldn’t it be two SET2’s and two SET6’s?

More Information for TIMKEN SET2

More Information for TIMKEN SET6

 

[SenorNoob]

That is for 2wd. 4wd uses the same part number for inner and outer.

I just double checked.

Ford 1983-1997 Model 28 /174 IFS Front Axles for Bronco II Ranger

 

[eightynine4x4]

Ok thanks. I checked specs of other parts at Rock Auto and they all seem to match each other, but unfortunately I can’t for the life of me find reliable specs of the SET2 just to make sure it is in fact the SET2 I should be ordering 4 of. The SET6 specs I found elsewhere and it doesn’t match the other bearings I mentioned, so I’ll assume it’s SET2.

Any pointers for picking out front u joints? I’m hoping it’s just the two side ones I need to replace, and not the “middle” one.

 

[bobbywalter]

those particular wheels and lugs can run off on that side in less then 30 miles. you retorque 30-100 miles to make sure trash or corrosion did not give you a false seat. if they are good the second time they should be good indefinitely.

with a 4x4 especially....whenever there is a hint of an issue, always stop jack and gawk at the damn thing to make sure the gremlins are not starting shenanigans.



if your u joints are loose and clanking at all, you better replace them asap. or you will have egged trash.


jeffs bronco graveyard usually has the hard to get stuff for the front axle reasonably priced.

 

[eightynine4x4]

those particular wheels and lugs can run off on that side in less then 30 miles. you retorque 30-100 miles to make sure trash or corrosion did not give you a false seat. if they are good the second time they should be good indefinitely.

with a 4x4 especially....whenever there is a hint of an issue, always stop jack and gawk at the damn thing to make sure the gremlins are not starting shenanigans.



if your u joints are loose and clanking at all, you better replace them asap. or you will have egged trash.


jeffs bronco graveyard usually has the hard to get stuff for the front axle reasonably priced.

Thank you.
Am placing a big order from Rock Auto but having trouble confirming the 3 front axle u-joints sizing/specs.
Are all 3 the same part?
I know I’ll have to drop the front diff to access the 3rd “middle” u joint but that’s fine. Might as well do this all complete and be done with the front axle.

 

[eightynine4x4]

Update: seems like the MOOG 436 is a good choice for all 3 up front?
It’s weird.. according to every list of parts i can find, the only locations mentioned are “Right Outer” and “Right Inner”, even on Moog’s actual website for the 436 below and on all listings in rock auto. Nobody mentions “Left Axle” at all.
But when looking at Moog’s and other manufacturer’s drawings… they all visually point to the three locations on front axle and give them the same part#. In Moog’s case it is #9.
So i guess MOOG 436 is fine for all 3.