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whats your actual engine operating temp?

ForOffRoadDriving

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ive got a 195* thermostat in my 1994 3.0l (26,000 miles on it so all cooling system components and fluids are still new) and occasionally the temp will get to 210* and hover there until i get onto an open road where i can get the air flowing good again. i recently added a 3rd Hella comet 500 to my brush guard and suspected that to be the cause of the higher temps, but after removing it i still have the smae issue. i do have a scan tool and was able to verify that my autometer guage matches the ECMs temps sender reading so its not a case of a rougue gauge or sensor. ive been driving the truck for 2-1/2 years now but it wasnt until this winter that i drilled and tapped the intake to move the autometer gauge sensor from a brass T that i also had the gauge temp sender screwed into (i made the new location on the flat spot behind the thermostat housing). prior to doing this the dash gauge and the ATM gauge both read cold, 160 at the highest on the ATM. when i moved the sensor i also changed the T stat and found that when i built the motor i put in a 180* stat instead of the factory 195*? i changed it out and all was good for the rest of the winter, it never got over 195* and i was happy, but with the warmer temps that spring is bringing im finding my self wondering how hot is too hot?
 


Big Jim M

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HA!

ive got a 195* thermostat in my 1994 3.0l (26,000 miles on it so all cooling system components and fluids are still new) and occasionally the temp will get to 210* and hover there until i get onto an open road where i can get the air flowing good again. i recently added a 3rd Hella comet 500 to my brush guard and suspected that to be the cause of the higher temps, but after removing it i still have the smae issue. i do have a scan tool and was able to verify that my autometer guage matches the ECMs temps sender reading so its not a case of a rougue gauge or sensor. ive been driving the truck for 2-1/2 years now but it wasnt until this winter that i drilled and tapped the intake to move the autometer gauge sensor from a brass T that i also had the gauge temp sender screwed into (i made the new location on the flat spot behind the thermostat housing). prior to doing this the dash gauge and the ATM gauge both read cold, 160 at the highest on the ATM. when i moved the sensor i also changed the T stat and found that when i built the motor i put in a 180* stat instead of the factory 195*? i changed it out and all was good for the rest of the winter, it never got over 195* and i was happy, but with the warmer temps that spring is bringing im finding my self wondering how hot is too hot?
In a recent NASCAR race the cars had very high pressure radiator caps installed and most ran the entire 500 mile race at 9,000 rpm and a coolant temperature of 260*! That should tell us a little about how hot, hot really is.
When the vehicle comes off the freeway and comes to a stop the hot engine suddenly has a much slower flow of coolant. It isn't unheard of for an accurate gauge to read near 230*

The actual temperature of the coolant passing a 195* thermostat should be 205/210* as it must be at least 195* in order to crack the thermostat just a little...
Big JIm:hottubfun::wub:
 

bilzy7

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Mine temp doesn't go above half ever so idk...
 

ForOffRoadDriving

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Thanks big jim, thats what i was hoping to hear as i havent experienced any issues with how it runs or idles (although i did find an air leak in my intake tube on the seam where the oil cap vent hose goes into the intake hose so i sealed it up). Ive been running an e fan since the begining but the temp switch broke last week so i switched back to my clutch fan but it got a huge crack in it! Now im running the e fan on the grille side of the radiator with a new temp switch and plan on putting the clutch fan back on as soon as i get it warrantied. Any one see a potential problem arising from running 2 fans like this?
 
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chrwilkins30

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mine is usually between 180-190. but will occasionally move to 200-210 when stoping after driving on the highway. Just as Jim was saying.
 

superds

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I have a 2.9l and an electric fan with an Autometer temp guage, it reads around 200 +-10 most of the time.

EDIT: Wow, I didn't even realize this was in the 3.0 forum until after I posted it.
 

ForOffRoadDriving

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thanks for the replies guys, i guess its normal then. the wheels in my head started turning this morning and ive decided to add a small LED light above my manual e fan switch so i can monitor when the fan motor actually turns on via the temp switch. it will stay off until the switch closes and turns on the fan, at which point it will light up and i can reference that to the temp on my gauge and see if it opens at 180* and closes at 175* like its advertised to. i realize there will be some difference in temp because the location of the switch will effect the temp reading, but i followed the directions privided and placed the switch 2" below the upper hose inlet.
 

ForOffRoadDriving

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i got the new fan installed and ill be going to lunch shortly so ill see how things go. heres the pic new and old fan and also one of the crack in the old fan




heres the new clutch fan installed and you can barely see the E fan in front of the radiator

 

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