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What would be the most likely cause of the clutch pedal suddenly losing resistance?

juntjoo

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It was late earlier when it happened as I was about to go on my way home so I didn't check anything, just caught a ride from a friend so I don't know if there's anything obvious like a leak. Is this something that happens often enough with a common cause? I'm not too familiar with the clutch system, I just know it's hydraulic and after a couple youtube vids learned the slave cylinder is a b@#%! to get to compared to the external type. Hopefully it's not that. Lol I'm at the stage I'm first trying to pick a problem to hope for. Like hopefully just a line that's easy to swap out. Anyway, so what's the likely culprit if there is one? Is the whole system easy to inspect from underneath? I'd like to get the best idea possible of what's going before taking to mechanic. I'll check it out in the morning and can report back asap any needed info. Thanks!
 


PetroleumJunkie412

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Change fluid.
Bleed.
Clean everything
Pump clutch. Check for leaks.
If from bellowing, slave.
If from anywhere else, not slave leak.
Masters wear, so do slaves
Leaky line is an easy repair.
 

juntjoo

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Anyone know the size of the bleeder nut off hand? Others I'll grab a few small ones. I'm taking the bus to the plaza my truck is at so I need to make sure I don't forget anything. Bleeder. Wood (and saw) to hold pedal in place. Apparently these lines have special quick connect type ends that you need a special tool you can get at auto parts places? Or I heard a screw driver could be enough? Brake fluid. Anything else I'm forgetting?
 

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I think it's 5/16
First check your clutch fluid reservoir, likely on the firewall or somewhere near and above the master cylinder, a line will gravity feed it into the master(I'm not sure how different they are from the 93 I'm familiar with). If that's empty try filling it up (after doing the following checks)
Look for fluid leaks(it uses brake fluid so it's clear or cloudy) Start with the clutch master cylinder and the line going towards the transmission. Then get under it and look at the line coming down and into the tranny. Then look at the front bottom center of the tranny(if it's there you'll need to drop the tranny and replace the slave cylinder) A shop will start @ 400-500 just to remove and replace the tranny, plus parts(and they'll surely add a few).
If, by some lucky break, you find no fluid leaks, it's likely the master cylinder at the firewall and goes in to the clutch pedal, and if that's what it is, you can likely do it yourself in an afternoon with basic tools(might be a long afternoon if you're totally unfamiliar with it)
 
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juntjoo

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Thanks. So
I think it's 5/16
First check your clutch fluid reservoir, likely on the firewall or somewhere near and above the master cylinder, a line will gravity feed it into the master(I'm not sure how different they are from the 93 I'm familiar with). If that's empty try filling it up (after doing the following checks)
Look for fluid leaks(it uses brake fluid so it's clear or cloudy) Start with the clutch master cylinder and the line going towards the transmission. Then get under it and look at the line coming down and into the tranny. Then look at the front bottom center of the tranny(if it's there you'll need to drop the tranny and replace the slave cylinder) A shop will start @ 400-500 just to remove and replace the tranny, plus parts(and they'll surely add a few).
If, by some lucky break, you find no fluid leaks, it's likely the master cylinder at the firewall and goes in to the clutch pedal, and if that's what it is, you can likely do it yourself in an afternoon with basic tools(might be a long afternoon if you're totally unfamiliar with it)
Thanks. So hopefully it's the master. I'll look in the book for tools needed to replace it and bring em along tomorrow(today after I wake up)
 

juntjoo

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Alright, I'm about to bleed it but looking around down there I couldn't quite spot the master cylinder in case that's what needs to be replaced. See pic. Following the tube from the fluid reservoir is it attached to that elbow deep down there behind the brake master cylinder? If so how do I get in there. My book provides no pics and doesn't indicate any need to remove anything to access it. Says there are no bolts fortunately for my year truck tho. Anyone know?
 

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juntjoo

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This is it right? Bleeder valve and fluid line port? It's at the wide end of the bell housing, driver's side. There is no sign of leakage here so hopefully that means slave cylinder is good.
 

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alwaysFlOoReD

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This is it right? Bleeder valve and fluid line port? It's at the wide end of the bell housing, driver's side. There is no sign of leakage here so hopefully that means slave cylinder is good.
Look towards the front of the transmission where it attaches to the engine. If the slave is leaking the fluid flows to the lowest part of the bell housing.
This is it right? Bleeder valve and fluid line port? It's at the wide end of the bell housing, driver's side. There is no sign of leakage here so hopefully that means slave cylinder is good.
The white plastic with black cap is the master. Remove the black cap and there should be a rubber diaphragm stuck to the cap. If it isn't there then it may have been sucked down into the master. First time I looked at one of these systems I didn't know about the rubber piece and filled it up with fluid not realizing that it wasn't supposed to be part of the master. It took me a few days to figure out why there was no fluid getting to the slave....lol.
 

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Look towards the front of the transmission where it attaches to the engine. If the slave is leaking the fluid flows to the lowest part of the bell housing.


The white plastic with black cap is the master. Remove the black cap and there should be a rubber diaphragm stuck to the cap. If it isn't there then it may have been sucked down into the master. First time I looked at one of these systems I didn't know about the rubber piece and filled it up with fluid not realizing that it wasn't supposed to be part of the master. It took me a few days to figure out why there was no fluid getting to the slave....lol.
Okay, so the reservoir is the there at top and the cylinder is back there. Gonna look up parts to get a better idea. I'm trying to bleed it but not sure what's going on.

I hold pedal in with wood stick open valve close it pump hold pump pedal hold it in with stick, check reservoir, repeat and seems like fluid barely dropping and not really much pressure at bleeder valve BUT no apparent leaks.

Dead MC right? I can get it tonight before auto zone closes. Again, how do you get it out and back in? Book barely any help. Makes it look easy. Do you have to remove the brake booster? Is that what it's called?
 

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What about the clutch throw out bearing, don't those go bad and have similar symptoms - pedal to tbe floor
 

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The master cylinder is attached to you clutch pedal. The rod off the pedal arm goes through the firewall and into the master cylinder, just below the brake booster.
I've had to pull the brake booster a couple of times on mine while working on it but on mine that's just two brake line fittings and 4 booster bolts holds it onto the firewall.
The 93 can be a nightmare to get bled properly, I hope they've addressed that by 2003
 

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Sorry, I mislabeled things. The white plastic with black top is a remote reservoir for the clutch master. Joshb pointed out the master is attached to the clutch pedal rod on the front of the firewall.

First try gravity bleeding.
If that don't work then you can try vacuum bleeding the system.
 

juntjoo

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No I got it, just gotta remove the fuse box I bet.

But based on my bleeding procedure in post #9 above, am I doing anything wrong? I don't think so. I'll check out some vids if I can find em. Not getting any pressure from pumping the clutch, no movement of fluid down from reservoir out to my bleeder cup.

Before I proceed to replace the MC anything I'm missing or doing wrong? When an MC goes it produces this situation yeah? Again, no apparent leaks. Thanks guys
 

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Pump the pedal 3 or 4 times and hold down with foot or stick. Crawl under and release bleeder then tighten. Crawl back up and pump pedal...repeat as needed.
 

juntjoo

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Pump the pedal 3 or 4 times and hold down with foot or stick. Crawl under and release bleeder then tighten. Crawl back up and pump pedal...repeat as needed.
Yeah, that's what I did. No change in pressure, very little fluid movement down/out. Dead MC right? If it was the slave would it feel different? I imagine you wouldn't be able to tell.
 

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