What would be the max tire size I can go on a stock 2011 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 without adding a lift and to keep tire from rubbing?

[Richard869]

I have a stock 2011 Ford Ranger XLT V6 4.0L, Front axel D028M, 3.73 gear ratio and 235/75R15's on it.

I've been doing research and I'm not having much luck on determining if I should stick with the 15in rims and go with a 30in tire or if I could/should go with a 16in rim. I'm not looking to lift it if I don't have too as of now. I'm just looking to get some better tires and looking rims since I'm on pavement and semi rough dirt roads 50/50. I don't do any hardcore off-roading so I don't necessarily need a huge amount of clearance but I definitely want something slightly bigger than what's on it now without my gears being extremely out of whack.

So my question is how much of a difference would it be from sticking with the same size rim in 15inches but going up in tire diameter from 29" to 30-31" but without the tire rubbing on anything or going with a 16in rim and possibly a 30-31inch tire?

Also is it better to go with a wider tire/rim or thinner?

The 3 types of tires I have in mind are:
1) Maxxis - Buckshot Mudder ll MT-764
2) Goodyear - Wrangler DuraTrac Radial
3) Falken - Wildpeak AT3 all season

I appreciate any help in advanced, Thank you!

 

[RonD]

Rim/wheel diameter doesn't really matter as long as they are at least 14", you can go 19", it just has less side wall but same tire diameter

Tire diameter matters, 2" diameter larger than stock is a safe bet as long as you stay with same width
2" diameter is only an inch difference as far as rubbing, and its just the front wheels that are the concern because they need to turn inside the wheel wheel fender openings
You can check your clearances by turning the wheels left and right and measure how much clearance you have now with current tire size when they are closest to the fenders

 

[scotts90ranger]

My preference is always smaller wheels over bigger wheels, but 15" or 16" would be fine, finding tires for 15" wheels is harder to do anymore...

I'm with Ron, 31" tires should be reasonable, I've heard the '11's are a little shorter than some of the older ones so that could factor in... my clapped out '00 Explorer has 31" tires on it and it doesn't rub too bad, it sits fairly low and I haven't cranked the torsion bars up much since the leaf springs and rear air shocks are SHOT

 

[sgtsandman]

Without any kind of lift, 30" will be the max and not have rubbing.

If you want to install 31" tires, you will want to do the pre-2008 "lift", it will require changing out the torsion bar keys and installing rear axle block from a 2007 or earlier Ford Ranger. That will raise the Ranger up about 1.5".

As far as the wheel diameter, I prefer the 15" rims. Some ranger models came with 16" rims that you could switch to if you wish. Like mentioned above, the rim size won't really have any bearing on tire diameter. If you intend to off road, the more side wall you have, the better and sticking with the 15" rim will give you the most side wall to flex and prevent rim damage.

 

[JohnnyO]

As sgtsandman mentioned, 2008-up Rangers sit a little lower. A 30x9.50-15 should fit okay, about the same height as your 235's but a little wider.
With a 16" rim probably a 255/70-16, I think that was a factory size.

 

[rubydist]

From my personal experience, 31" tires will physically fit fine on that truck with no lift block changes required. (You may need to adjust the torsion bar keys a little, depending on if they have settled over time.)

However, going from 29" tires to 31" tires will make your truck nearly 7% slower, which is a big deal. I would not recommend going past 30" with the axle ratio you have in the truck.

My tire recommendations would be along the lines of BFG K02 or Firestone Destination A/T2. Those will have better road manners and a lot less noise than the ones you have listed, and will also be significantly better in the snow and ice since M/T tires are not good in snow with their large tread blocks and lack of sipes.

 

[superj]

wide tires are for sand. thinner is for mud and snow (i guess snow, but i figure you want to get down to grab the road instead of ice)

if you want to float on top, that is the wider. we never want to sink into the sand here so everyone goes wider. i don't think that applies to trail rides or rock climbing though

 

[NICK2008FX4]

Hi, I have a 2008 FX4 super cab 4.0 with 5 speed auto. I have not lifted it. I added Cooper AT3 45's, the size is 165/75/16, no rub. 4.10 rear Torsen, 4.10 front Torsen. Extra front weight with AO steel bumper with Smittybilt 9.500 lb winch. Extra rear weight includes Leer fibreglass 6 ft topper. AO steel bumper. Only suspension change was to Bilstien 4600 shocks. Factory option 5280 GVWR. PS, the same size spare fits underneith.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Hi, I have a 2008 FX4 super cab 4.0 with 5 speed auto. I have not lifted it. I added Cooper AT3 45's, the size is 165/75/16, no rub. 4.10 rear Torsen, 4.10 front Torsen. Extra front weight with AO steel bumper with Smittybilt 9.500 lb winch. Extra rear weight includes Leer fibreglass 6 ft topper. AO steel bumper. Only suspension change was to Bilstien 4600 shocks. Factory option 5280 GVWR. PS, the same size spare fits underneith.

Do you mean 265/75/15?

 

[NICK2008FX4]

Sorry I ment 265/75/16! These are the original cast factory 16" wheels.

 

[Danno1985]

From my personal experience, 31" tires will physically fit fine on that truck with no lift block changes required. (You may need to adjust the torsion bar keys a little, depending on if they have settled over time.)

However, going from 29" tires to 31" tires will make your truck nearly 7% slower, which is a big deal. I would not recommend going past 30" with the axle ratio you have in the truck.

My tire recommendations would be along the lines of BFG K02 or Firestone Destination A/T2. Those will have better road manners and a lot less noise than the ones you have listed, and will also be significantly better in the snow and ice since M/T tires are not good in snow with their large tread blocks and lack of sipes.

Yup, 31s fit but look "stuffed", and with 3.73s the truck will feel doggy without a gear change. Stick with the 235/75r15s if you're keeping the rest of the truck stock. Honestly dude... I know this isn't what you want to hear, but the Michelins you already got are going to be tough to beat for what you're describing. They may not look tough but for a stock truck they're plenty capable on any kind of fire road situation.

If it's between the three you suggested, go with the Falkens. Mud tires suck on pavement and in rain and there's no reason IMO to drop $210/tire on a specialized off-road tire like the Duratracs for a truck that primarily lives on pavement.

 

[superj]

"there's no reason IMO to drop $210/tire on a specialized off-road tire for a truck that primarily lives on pavement."

i have been telling people this for many years. especially jeep people. their mall crawlers have to look cool though.

 

[sgtsandman]

I’ve found a good All Terrain tire to be perfectly adequate for most off road applications as long as you aren’t mud bogging or rock crawling. I was very pleasantly surprised with where I could get using AT tires.

For a “weekend warrior” that spends most of their time on the street, an AT will be perfect. A good AT will serve you well year round, even in the snow. Something an all season was ok at best.

 

[Danno1985]

"there's no reason IMO to drop $210/tire on a specialized off-road tire for a truck that primarily lives on pavement."

i have been telling people this for many years. especially jeep people. their mall crawlers have to look cool though.

My favorite is when I see tricked out mall crawler jeeps with four duratracs or km2s that are pretty much bald from street use but the spare tire has full tread.

 

[superj]

all over the place here. especially since we are a coastal town. no need for lift or big tires to drive on the beach but they all have huge lifts and expensive tires