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What pull behind Camper?


91stranger

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That is a ghetto looking hitch..... It almost looks factory like what the VW beetle trailers used. Definitely looks sketchy which is why no one wants to tow it. What size ball is that? Normal trailers are 2-5/16" but I could see this being a 2" ball with how odd it is.

A camper that age probably spent a few years neglected. I would go to an RV parts store and get some lap sealant and butyl tape because I'm sure the roof needs resealed and some windows are probably leaking. Butyl is pretty cheap, $5-10 for a 50' roll and the lap sealant is about $10-15 a tube. You can't just use regular silicone on these, lap sealant is the only stuff that will work for the roof. I take that back, you can use silicone for the roof but it won't hold more than a year before needing resealed. Lap sealant is the only way to go.

Biggest (most expensive) things on campers are the fridge, AC, furnace and water heater. Fridges and AC's get expensive really quick too. It sounds like you have well over $1000 in it with the tow bills and all.... Hope you have some skills in rebuilding this little gem.
 


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snoranger

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A camper that age probably spent a few years neglected. I would go to an RV parts store and get some lap sealant and butyl tape because I'm sure the roof needs resealed and some windows are probably leaking. Butyl is pretty cheap, $5-10 for a 50' roll and the lap sealant is about $10-15 a tube. You can't just use regular silicone on these, lap sealant is the only stuff that will work for the roof. I take that back, you can use silicone for the roof but it won't hold more than a year before needing resealed. Lap sealant is the only way to go.
43398
 

85_Ranger4x4

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The tape is wicked stuff.

I now stock it in clear for emergency combine/auger repairs during harvest. Major PITA to remove when you get time to actually repair but it will run the season.

Is the butyl stuff like a rope kind of thing? I got some for the back window on my F-150 a couple weeks ago at a normal parts store and it wasn't priced too bad, I think it was 3/8".
 

Volkshook

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...Hope you have some skills in rebuilding this little gem.
I have roughly zero such skills. The learning curve is going to be a bear. Keep the tips a-comin' (for example, I could stand to be directed as to how to access the roof to do all this sealing--do I just need a ladder and the patience to keep moving it from spot to spot?). I haven't actually checked the ball size, but the seller said it's a little less than 2".

Also, it seems I lied about the Dead Chevy (which seems to me a suitable name for the vehicle): it's a 2500, not a 1500.
 

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I got a chance to check out a few pop campers...They seem kind of design flawed, as in wasted space...Maybe for weight.

Maybe it was just the confgurations I saw, but it was as if the emphasis was on how many sleeping surfaces you could cram in, when really I dont see a big family, or 2 small ones, sharing a pop up...but this is based on my necessities of I can sleep anywhere, but a sink,stove,fridge shower, crapper etc are the real creatures comforts. Id shop for something that can most effieciently provide these things, as opposed to abundant sleeping and sitting area.

Have you considered a small toy hauler or camper trailer? it provides the above listed necessities (crapper, shower, faucet, fridge etc... plus the bonus of being able still pack toys.
They have gotten quite compact and light lately, probably not much heavier than a pop up, they seem overbuilt and complicated to me.

My buddy pulled a small one behind his toyota turd no problem...I cant recall the size but it was tiny and provided everything a huge rv would, just less extravagant. Layout was perf too, bed way in back, everything else up front within reach of everyone else not sleeping in it.

The pop up set up was terrible, huge beds that could sleep 12, but blocked everything else from use when implemented
 

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I agree with you about wasted space, but I also think it's a question of what a given owner prioritizes. For example, a dedicated bed in a space that could accommodate multifunction furniture seems like a waste to me, but I suppose it's harder to make a transformer-bed as comfortable as something that can only be a bed. Similarly, a galley and wet bath were kind of important to me for this trailer because I mean to spend more than just a night here and a night there in it. If I were only taking it up the canyon for the weekend once in a while, hygiene facilities wouldn't be nearly as high of a priority. While I was looking, I saw a whole lot of bed-in-a-box teardrops, and I kept thinking, "I don't mind cooking outside when the mood strikes me, but I don't want to have to cook outside."
 

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I have roughly zero such skills. The learning curve is going to be a bear. Keep the tips a-comin' (for example, I could stand to be directed as to how to access the roof to do all this sealing--do I just need a ladder and the patience to keep moving it from spot to spot?). I haven't actually checked the ball size, but the seller said it's a little less than 2".

Also, it seems I lied about the Dead Chevy (which seems to me a suitable name for the vehicle): it's a 2500, not a 1500.
A little helpful info from a long time rv owner...
If there is no ladder mounted on the rear of the rig that usually means the roof is not ment to be walked on. Not always the case but as a rule if there is no ladder and no provision for mounting one via bracing on the rear wall, then manuf. is telling you not safe to walk on it or support heavy weight.
Also, because of it's age, most likely there is/has been water leaks to the roof area which can/will rot the wood roof stringers...another reason to try not to get on roof.
However, if you must, use a ladder to get up there, but use a piece of plywood, like a 2 foot x 2 foot piece to distribute your weight..
You have what was back in the day, a "light weight" rig which means the thickness of wood stringers and plywood was thinner than a standard rig.
Do not use any type of silicone to seal/reseal any gaps. Use products made for the rv market, like Dicor sealants and lap sealants. Have used them for years, probably the best stuff on the market.
Eternabond is the best sealing tape on the market. Will last 10 or more years if appied right, and the best stuff to re-seal the roof edges where it meats the side wall.
I have personally not used any to the Flextape stuff, but many on several rv web sites I'm on, have, and have stated it a waste of money. Good for emergencies, but for a permanant fix, use what has been used and proven for many years.
Check what type of roof material you have, as that will dictate how you clean it and which products to use to repair it. Dicor and Etrnabond make different product for different applications.
Repairing rv's is not rocket science, and if your capable of around the house repairs you can repair the rig.
Only repair problems you may run into art the systems and appliances.
 

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I have roughly zero such skills. The learning curve is going to be a bear. Keep the tips a-comin' (for example, I could stand to be directed as to how to access the roof to do all this sealing--do I just need a ladder and the patience to keep moving it from spot to spot?). I haven't actually checked the ball size, but the seller said it's a little less than 2".

Also, it seems I lied about the Dead Chevy (which seems to me a suitable name for the vehicle): it's a 2500, not a 1500.
Probably 1-7/8".

Chevy has 6 lug wheels though?

Have you considered a small toy hauler or camper trailer? it provides the above listed necessities (crapper, shower, faucet, fridge etc... plus the bonus of being able still pack toys.
They have gotten quite compact and light lately, probably not much heavier than a pop up, they seem overbuilt and complicated to me.
Until you cram your 1000lb four wheel in the back, that should make pulling with a Ranger pretty exciting.

Pop ups vary a lot like everything else.

I have personally not used any to the Flextape stuff, but many on several rv web sites I'm on, have, and have stated it a waste of money. Good for emergencies, but for a permanant fix.
+1
 

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85_Ranger4x4

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Probably 1-7/8".

Chevy has 6 lug wheels though?



Until you cram your 1000lb four wheel in the back, that should make pulling with a Ranger pretty exciting.

Pop ups vary a lot like everything else.



+1
Good point, my bad...I forget nobody rides dirt bikes and atvs anymore, now that we have utv's....

Although its still nice to have that space....even for stuff like bicycles, gear or whatever...and they also make a great open lounge with the back hatch down. I guess you could toss that stuff on top of the pop up when its closed flat, or pack it otherwise....One of em I saw actually had decent storage outside of it for the propane tanks, generator etc...I

I'm just a big fan of toy haulers, planning on getting a lil 14 footer or something someday...2500lbs dry, 3500 gvwr, 350lb tongue weight...No problemo! I would pull it w/ my F150 though.


You're probably right, I think the pop ups I saw were just not the best configuration, probably cheaper versions too.
 

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Good point, my bad...I forget nobody rides dirt bikes and atvs anymore, now that we have utv's....

Although its still nice to have that space....even for stuff like bicycles, gear or whatever...and they also make a great open lounge with the back hatch down. I guess you could toss that stuff on top of the pop up when its closed flat, or pack it otherwise....One of em I saw actually had decent storage outside of it for the propane tanks, generator etc...I

I'm just a big fan of toy haulers, planning on getting a lil 14 footer or something someday...2500lbs dry, 3500 gvwr, 350lb tongue weight...No problemo! I would pull it w/ my F150 though.
Pet peeve of mine - dry camper weight is a mythical number as it doesn't include standard items like propane, battery, jacks, etc and/or any options. Its right up there with the "brochure" rating of cargo capacity of Ranger (deduct a/c, auto, 4.0, hitch, etc).

The issue would be finding a 3,500 lb GVWR toy hauler. The "average" customer wants to add some options (a/c, awning, generator, etc) and you need to add propane, battery, jacks, freshwater, etc to get "wet" weight. As has been stated earlier in the thread, it usually adds up to 5-600 lbs, >150 lbs of which is on the tongue. So, your example toy hauler would only have 3-400 lbs capacity - not bloody useful if one wants to bring their utv. Which is why most toy haulers have at least 2 - 3,500 lb axles for 7k lb GVWR. And then an F-150 is better choice of tow vehicle.

Interesting hitch.

It has some issues with the chains - both the actual chain and the securing method (both ends). And suspect that the nut on the hitch ball is doing nasty things to the floor of the truck bed, as will the tongue of the trailer, should you drive anywhere less flat than Saskatchewan.
 

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As it happens, yes.
It seems to be becoming a common thing on smaller trucks now. Chevy/GMC has it. The new Ranger is 6 lug. I can’t remember if the Tacoma or the Frontier are.
 

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Pet peeve of mine - dry camper weight is a mythical number as it doesn't include standard items like propane, battery, jacks, etc and/or any options. Its right up there with the "brochure" rating of cargo capacity of Ranger (deduct a/c, auto, 4.0, hitch, etc).

The issue would be finding a 3,500 lb GVWR toy hauler. The "average" customer wants to add some options (a/c, awning, generator, etc) and you need to add propane, battery, jacks, freshwater, etc to get "wet" weight. As has been stated earlier in the thread, it usually adds up to 5-600 lbs, >150 lbs of which is on the tongue. So, your example toy hauler would only have 3-400 lbs capacity - not bloody useful if one wants to bring their utv. Which is why most toy haulers have at least 2 - 3,500 lb axles for 7k lb GVWR. And then an F-150 is better choice of tow vehicle.



Interesting hitch.

It has some issues with the chains - both the actual chain and the securing method (both ends). And suspect that the nut on the hitch ball is doing nasty things to the floor of the truck bed, as will the tongue of the trailer, should you drive anywhere less flat than Saskatchewan.
Hmm I thought it sounded light...I'm not so trailer savvy, good to know. Seems the standard adage applies, less weight=more money, how light u wanna go?

I once borrowed my buddys dads all aluminum trailer to haul a car...I think was a triple axle and about 23' long. I didnt even notice it back there while empty. And loaded w/ a car, felt like I was towing a bike. I asked what it cost, he said "a lot".

And that hitch does look interesting, and quite sketchy lol...Looks like like a regular hitch that made an ugly baby with a 5th wheel lol.
 

Volkshook

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Nothing personal. I'd rather be driving my Bug.
Yeah, the hitch is pretty creative. I'm fairly certain, though, that it's not just attached on the bed. I didn't get a good look, but I believe it's attached to the frame as well. It's the same truck the previous owner was using to pull it up canyons when they were actually using the trailer.
 


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