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What is this part...

fastpakr

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And if things really get sideways on you, four years later you're trying to figure out why it's still not back together.
 


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rumblecloud

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I've been soaking the pinch bolts for a week now, but I know I'm gonna have to cut 'em loose.

I am going to start a different string though with more images on the process. There's lots of descriptions on what to do, but I haven't run across a lot of images - maybe I just haven't looked hard enough though.
 

ericbphoto

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In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are different.
Just a little info that you may find helpful.

There are two kinds of camber adjustment bushings. First, is the non-adjustable type. It is one piece and is used to adjust the camber. It also affects caster. But with this style, you get what you get. Notice the center hole is offset. By rotating the bushing, it moves the upper ball joint to change the camber. They come with different ranges of offset, for more or less adjustment range. The range is specified in degrees. This is what Ford installed and I believe this is what you see in the rust.
71uY1hbzirL._AC_SY450_.jpg



The second style is made of 2 pieces. Camber is set with the outer piece. Then some caster adjustment can be made with the inner, to certain point. It takes a bit more fiddling to get it right. But it is more versatile.
6190160HcRL._AC_SY355_.jpg
 

rumblecloud

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Thanks Eric.
I have been looking at the second type - Moog K80109 - as referenced in 4x4Junkie's post here.
Summit Racing has them for 72.99 apiece. The same part from Amazon for 35.20 apiece. Not a big Amazon fan, but...

Here's a close-up of my existing adjuster. You can see the adjustment spec - I think it's 2-1/2° and the "Made in USA" stamp.
camber caster adjuster.jpg
 

bobbywalter

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19Walt93

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Thanks Eric.
I have been looking at the second type - Moog K80109 - as referenced in 4x4Junkie's post here.
Summit Racing has them for 72.99 apiece. The same part from Amazon for 35.20 apiece. Not a big Amazon fan, but...

Here's a close-up of my existing adjuster. You can see the adjustment spec - I think it's 2-1/2° and the "Made in USA" stamp.
View attachment 70926
The current camber bushing is adjustable by turning it and less likely to move on it's own than a 2 piece one. I think some of these guys are rustophobic. Drill out the pinch bolt and retap it, you can bolt and nut it if you have to and it'll work, either way, use grade 8 hardware. Before pulling it out mark it and the spindle with a chisel, pull the shim out and polish it up with a wire wheel and clean up the inside bore, too. Coat it with copper based never seize and reassemble it. I'd also do the other side before getting it aligned, not just to make the tech happy, you want him to be able to set it to "preferred" and not just "in the green". In the green means within tolerance but for example: if the camber is max allowable negative and the toe is max allowable toe out. you'll quickly wipe the inside tread off your tires.
 

bobbywalter

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The current camber bushing is adjustable by turning it and less likely to move on it's own than a 2 piece one. I think some of these guys are rustophobic. Drill out the pinch bolt and retap it, you can bolt and nut it if you have to and it'll work, either way, use grade 8 hardware. Before pulling it out mark it and the spindle with a chisel, pull the shim out and polish it up with a wire wheel and clean up the inside bore, too. Coat it with copper based never seize and reassemble it. I'd also do the other side before getting it aligned, not just to make the tech happy, you want him to be able to set it to "preferred" and not just "in the green". In the green means within tolerance but for example: if the camber is max allowable negative and the toe is max allowable toe out. you'll quickly wipe the inside tread off your tires.

RUstophobic....no.


I just knew to go up there and snatch that shit out of there when I had the chance.
 

rumblecloud

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4WD
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1-1/2 inch front leveling
Total Drop
Stock
Tire Size
P235/75R15
My credo
What's the worst that could happen?
If I can get it out without damaging it I'll consider keeping it. I'm not phobic, but I'm not sure the current bushing will provide enough adjustment to compensate camber and cast for the existing 1-1/2 inch lift and larger tires I plan on using in the future.

Also just curious, you said: "I'd also do the other side before getting it aligned," Why would you only do one side? Not questioning your expertise, just didn't think anyone would do just one side.
 

19Walt93

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If you don't have time to do it right will you have time to do it over?
RUstophobic....no.


I just knew to go up there and snatch that shit out of there when I had the chance.
No offence intended, rust is a fact of life in New England, just like sub zero winters. I don't like either but I also don't fear them, I just deal with it. When my nephew and his family moved here from Arizona, his wife told me she learned how to pick up a scorpion before she started school. I'll stick with road salt and frost heaves, thanks.
 

19Walt93

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My credo
If you don't have time to do it right will you have time to do it over?
If I can get it out without damaging it I'll consider keeping it. I'm not phobic, but I'm not sure the current bushing will provide enough adjustment to compensate camber and cast for the existing 1-1/2 inch lift and larger tires I plan on using in the future.

Also just curious, you said: "I'd also do the other side before getting it aligned," Why would you only do one side? Not questioning your expertise, just didn't think anyone would do just one side.
You have way more common sense than many who have asked me for advice over the years. Once you get it cleaned up a never seized the tech can easily replace it if he needs to.
 

bobbywalter

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sawzall?
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My credo
it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
No...

You rip all that shit apart and dope it up


That is a fixed position and may or may not allow what you need.
 

19Walt93

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If you don't have time to do it right will you have time to do it over?
No...

You rip all that shit apart and dope it up


That is a fixed position and may or may not allow what you need.
That kind of shim can be rotated to change caster and camber, I don't remember a case where we had to resort to the split bushing to get one right.
 

bobbywalter

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4WD
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sawzall?
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33-44
My credo
it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
That kind of shim can be rotated to change caster and camber, I don't remember a case where we had to resort to the split bushing to get one right.

Yeah. I can see that.


I have been aligning these critters since the 80s too.


Apparently You never aligned a lifted one 2 inches over center? Because 3 to 3 1/4 is what it takes to keep caster reasonable so it don't feel wobbly at speed.

That particular unit if needed to max for camber will lose all of the caster....

He stacked washers. And until it's rolling and on it's weight I couldn't know what it needs.

I don't know how many zero bushings I have pulled out of passenger sides...but it's sizeable...
 

19Walt93

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2WD
Total Drop
3"
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235/55R16
My credo
If you don't have time to do it right will you have time to do it over?
Yeah. I can see that.


I have been aligning these critters since the 80s too.


Apparently You never aligned a lifted one 2 inches over center? Because 3 to 3 1/4 is what it takes to keep caster reasonable so it don't feel wobbly at speed.

That particular unit if needed to max for camber will lose all of the caster....

He stacked washers. And until it's rolling and on it's weight I couldn't know what it needs.

I don't know how many zero bushings I have pulled out of passenger sides...but it's sizeable...
I don't lift vehicles. You can lower any car an inch and make an improvement in handling that the most oblivious driver in the world will notice, raising the center of gravity only makes sense for heavy duty off roading. I also did enough driveline vibration diag in the Fairmont days, I don't need to create new ones in my vehicles.
 

bobbywalter

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Vehicle Year
1988
Make / Model
FORD mostly
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V8
Engine Size
BIGGER
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
sawzall?
Tire Size
33-44
My credo
it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
I don't lift vehicles. You can lower any car an inch and make an improvement in handling that the most oblivious driver in the world will notice, raising the center of gravity only makes sense for heavy duty off roading. I also did enough driveline vibration diag in the Fairmont days, I don't need to create new ones in my vehicles.
I had a 351 swapped Fairmont for a bit.

Hard to keep it straight. Fun though.

My personal truck with E rated 305s out performs a stock 88 version on the same skid pad with the 300 plus hp gas engine....that was in 2007. The load cell placement was a bit different....because it was 20 years later ..but close enough.

I was getting data for the pending diesel swap...and staff position changes never allowed access to do a post diesel swap comparison. Which was a bummer ..

The difference between the modified ttb system I ran and the straight axle was not predicted....





Stops better, goes better...takes skid g,s better.

With the diesel....I don't know, but stop didn't change to longer with the 400 pounds...but....got shorter to what I assume was due to the hydro boost swap. But it was much much much better mpg.

And weighs almost 2k more then a stock truck

I would have lost money betting on those results


Off road at speed.... The straight axle....No way...this leaf on solid axle setup sucks... The ttb blows it away...even a stock truck will run away off road.

For slow speed stuff...it's good.


Especially on shit Detroit roads...but all around interstate travel....I like my truck much better at speed on the freeway like it is now...then any bone stock ttb anything I have driven....even with the track bar removed ...which scares most people that drive it.
 

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