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What else can i do to my 95 2.3 to restore power?

wynnespeed

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So ive done the normal tune up, plugs wires, pcv, air filter, oil oil fillter, . its an extended cab, it just seems like it doesnt have to power it should, idk maybe thats just the way these 2.3's are haha.

Also it seems to be faster went you first start it up (before it reaches operating temp) then seems to not have that little bit of pep. could the cat be starting to stop up or clog? maybe its all in my head ? after all its only a 4 banger truck.

any ideas? thanks
 


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LilGreen

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I've been doing a lot of this since I bought my 93 4.0.
Ya it's old but with a lot of potential like most older trucks have.
Just remember spark fuel air.
I replaced my plugs as did u, didn't do wires... Prob should...
-you can track the spark right back to ur battery and coil if u wanted, I would just check it with a volt meter rather than replacing everything.

U could replace ur fuel filter, I did when I noticed bogging on startup.
You can replace your injectors or go with a higher rate.

Clean maf, I did mine yesterday and I noticed a difference. I do allot of wheelin and dirt roadin.

There is a tone of other stuff u can do but it's prob not worth it...
I'm talking rings, piston cleaning and whatnot

Sounds like u may have a rad problem? Mine runs better on the colder side but I know I also have a rad leak. Mabey check the plumbing for leaks or your antifreeze with one of them meters.

Hopefully I could be some help, btw most of these things have excellent write ups in the tech library
 

wynnespeed

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Yeah i did a fuel filter change too, why do you think it could be a rad leak? and im not losing coolant, but thanks bud
 

explorer98

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Sounds like the cat to me
 

swynx

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These rigs will run rich for warm up giving you more gas. Plug the air is colder.

Each and everything I did to my 300k mile 4.0 helped. I didn't realize how slow it was.

Fuel pump, tune up, wires, distributor, 02 sensors, different exhaust, ect sensor, maf, iac, Tps, cleaned throttle body,fpr, seafoam. might be some other stuff. But I basicly just started replacing stuff every payday and literally every little thing helped.whether it was throttle responce. Power. Driveability it all made a difference.

I went from about a 28 inch tire on light rims to 31x10.5 6 ply tires on heavy rims. Each one is easily twice twice the weight of the previous tire (or so it feels). Before I could barely burn up coming around a corner. Now I can light em up at the push of a pedal. And the engine is way snappier.

Just because something's working doesn't mean its working at its full potential.

Now compared to before my 4.0 barely ran.
 

wynnespeed

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ahh that makes since, and do throttle body spacers do anything good ? heard they were a waist of money
 

swynx

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All I've ever heard is there a waist
 

frdtrknut

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I gather that there are no engine code lights on and that the engine fault light works. I also gather that it otherwise starts and runs good. You can throw a lot of parts at it but all you might get is an empty wallet. I would go over all the vacuum hoses, including PVC and power brake boaster to look for any leaks. Use a pair of pliers to pinch off hoses to see if the tone of the engine changes. Use spray carb cleaner around the intake to check for engine tone change. EGR valves can also be a vacuum leak but you may need to remove it in order to see if it seals. You can do these checks on the cheap. Good luck.
 

Mark_88

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check for play in the pedal...zip tie fix will work wonders if there is...

And, believe it or not...Engine Restore...I put a can of it in my dying 2.3 and I was surprised at how much better it ran...but that is short term fix on an oil burner/blower...once the stuff works its way out the engine is a dog again...a lazy dog...but I'm also finding that higher octane gas makes it run better...but mine is carbed and I think it's got pre-ignition...but mine doesn't actually ping...it pongs...I hit the gas pedal hard and PONG...so I have to let the pedal off a bit and then it picks up.
 

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killj0y

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I have a 2.3 and like swynx said every little thing helps but start with problem areas and the throttle cable mod. Mine had gotten plenty of parts but only when they bit the dust. Slowly but surely they have gotten changed, next up is the o2 sensors since they throw a code every now and then. And tracing down an evap code.

Little by little it has ran better, and is now quite peppy. If you want to know more about what I've had to do feel free to ask. I just redid my entire ac system since the compressor blew up a few weeks ago. Still plenty more to do.

Just start with the scheduled maintenance, resist throwing useless performance parts at it. You have a good start, think about checking the throttle cable, changing your tranny and diff fluid, clean your throttle body, clean your egr, flush your coolant and add fresh coolant, check your suspension, brakes, intake, vacuum lines, fuel hose, evap system, wheel bearings, u joints, etc....So many things that play a part in having a good running truck.

I cannot stress enough...STAY AWAY FROM USELESS PERFORMANCE PARTS. Sorry but they do jack shit for our engine. There are no real bolt on power adders besides the big ones (turbo/nitrous).
 

wynnespeed

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what is the throttle cable mod? and i know it probably needs a good coolant flush... i did take out the thing that kinda looks like an intake muffler and replaced it with a pipe, seemed to help i little.

i do have new frontshocks , brakes shoes and pads are new. wheel bearings are good. do you think that changing the tranny fluid would hlp it go into gear smoother or is that just a mazda tranny thing? also what atf fluid it is best for these 5 speeds?

thanks for your input killjoy
 

scotts90ranger

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It's not the cat...

what kind of fuel mileage are you getting? any check engine lights?

Like said above, check the basics first, get some MAF cleaner and clean the sensor, changes how the engine will run. Check for exhaust leaks before the oxygen sensor, that can screw things up, also look for intake leaks after the MAF (before or after the throttle, either can affect things).

The biggest difference is just to drive a gear down from normal, use the whole RPM range, horsepower peak is around 4600rpm so shift up there but cruise between 2500rpm and 3000rpm for best mileage (don't cruise over 3000rpm, it'll be in open loop fuel control and be running richer).

Throttle spacers are useless, waste of money, you aren't going to tune the intake with an inch long spacer... the 2.3L already has a much longer intake than most engines.

If you really want to get power increases, the cylinder head needs ported as it's a big restriction
 

Mark_88

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what is the throttle cable mod?
thanks for your input killjoy
The throttle cable, the cable that runs from the gas pedal in the cab to the engine, can stretch making the engine less responsive and not allowing wide open throttle.

To check this push and pull the gas pedal to see if there is any slack in it...meaning it will move about an inch or so before the pedal actually feels like it is pulling on something...if it moves, even a bit, you probably have slack in the cable and putting zip ties around the end helps to tighten it up.

There is a write up about this in the Tech Library...since it is a very common issue and most who do it find it improves response immediately...
 

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