What do my front rotors look like?


computersoc

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2001 Ford Ranger XLT 2.5L RWD with manual transmission. Regular cab (smallest) and bed of truck is a standard (not stepside).

What does the front rotor look like? Is the the bottom one or second from the bottom? Different websites tell me different things.

Some descriptions say the 2nd from the bottom is for 4x4 only.

Should I get a kit with calipers too? Truck is 18 years old and driven in upstate NY, so the body is pretty rusted.
 

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The second from the bottom is for 4x4 only. You need the bottom rotors.

New calipers would not be out of line at that age, if you are willing to spend the money.
 

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Sounds good, thanks. Is there a standard kit that I can buy separately which has all the brake lines? Some are looking pretty rusted.

Edit: do I have two wheel or four wheel ABS?
 
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The second from the bottom is for 4x4 only. You need the bottom rotors.

New calipers would not be out of line at that age, if you are willing to spend the money.

the bottom ones are 261mm, that's 10.27"
his 2001 should have the 11.25" front rotors?????
 

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Yep, RWD Rangers have the hub built into the rotor. So, you'll want the bottom ones in the picture you posted. As far as the ABS question, I can't specifically remember what to look for. I would look for wires leading to sensors on the front brakes some where. Probably on the knuckle or the caliper mount. My 1998 was RABS only, so I've nothing to compare against.
 

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Sounds good, thanks. Is there a standard kit that I can buy separately which has all the brake lines? Some are looking pretty rusted.

Edit: do I have two wheel or four wheel ABS?
On the brake lines, there is no kit. I had to replace my brake lines and made my own as I went along. The only one that didn't get replaced was the one that runs the frame rail behind the fuel tank. It wasn't too terrible. I was able to get everything I needed except for the fitting where the line behind the tank hooks up to. I had to cut the end off the old line I was replacing and reuse it for the section. You'll need a could hand tubing benders and a double flair tool. Not too expensive. I would also get sections of straight line and cut and bent to fit and length. I wasn't overly fond of the stuff you can buy in a roll. It was tougher to work with in my opinion.
 

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Edit: do I have two wheel or four wheel ABS?
IDFK. You gotta figure that one out yourself. Kinda need the truck in front of me to tell you.
 

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IDFK. You gotta figure that one out yourself. Kinda need the truck in front of me to tell you.
What should I look for? AFAIK I have ABS in the front, so does that mean I would have it in the rear on the drums?
 

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What should I look for? AFAIK I have ABS in the front, so does that mean I would have it in the rear on the drums?
The rear ABS runs off the tone ring in the differential of the rear axle. The trucks with 2 wheel only ABS will have just rear ABS and will use that. The one with front ABS will have sensors and wires running from the front hubs or knuckles somewhere in order to take readings off the rotors.
 

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The rear ABS runs off the tone ring in the differential of the rear axle. The trucks with 2 wheel only ABS will have just rear ABS and will use that. The one with front ABS will have sensors and wires running from the front hubs or knuckles somewhere in order to take readings off the rotors.
No, that was true of pre-95 trucks, but later ones should have tone rings at the front wheels as well, 2 or 4 WABS.

You need to trace the brake lines from the master cylinder and see if it is a simple little device with one line in and one out, or if it looks like a huge messy block with lines all over.
 

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No, that was true of pre-95 trucks, but later ones should have tone rings at the front wheels as well, 2 or 4 WABS.

You need to trace the brake lines from the master cylinder and see if it is a simple little device with one line in and one out, or if it looks like a huge messy block with lines all over.
There are five lines coming out of my master cylinder I think. One to the reservoir that holds brake fluid and then four more that go to each wheel I assume.
 

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There are five lines coming out of my master cylinder I think. One to the reservoir that holds brake fluid and then four more that go to each wheel I assume.
Starting at firewall, there would be brake boost - black, ~12" diameter with rubber hose to intake manifold. Next is master cylinder, silver with brake fluid reservoir with filler cap on top, wiring for brake pressure differential, and 2 lines out.

If you have RABS (rear ABS), the front line will go to a block on frame to be split left and right. Rear line goes to back.

If you have 4WABS (which it sounds like you do), the 2 lines go to the ABS module on fender. 3 lines out (left front, right front & rear) in addition to the 2 in, and has electrical connectors.

Rotors historically came in 4 flavors for 2WD front: 10.28" (usually found in RC, goes with 9" rear brakes), 11.28" (usually found in SC, goes with 10" rear brakes)*, and with/without ABS tone rings (RABS doesn't use tone rings, it just uses the speed sensor on rear axle - if too rapid deceleration is detected, kicks in ABS.) It is worth your time to measure what you have so you get correct parts. Last time I bought rotor, with tone ring was cheaper, so while I didn't need it; I bought the lower cost one.

*We are talking Ford Rangers, so even if usually is 99 out of 100, still allows several thousand with different combo.

Replacing calipers/brake lines with 4WABS is bit of PIA as the ABS module doesn't like air. I fill caliper/lines with fluid ahead of the swap, so only limited about of air gets in. (Or at least I try to limit it).
 

rusty ol ranger

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Find a loose gravel road, whind it up to 40 and smash the brakes, see if the front tires lock
 
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Find a loose gravel road, whind it up to 40 and smash the brakes, see if the front tires lock
In the interest of keeping the truck shiny side up, I don't think I'd recommend this.

If memory serves me correctly, the VIN will tell you whether or not you have ABS on the rear wheels, all wheels, or no wheels.
 

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I like rusty's way. That's how I would test the brakes to see what and if something is bad or good. Plus it's fun when you get it up to about 60 on gravel and then slam the brakes.
 


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