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superj

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drives a stick shift ranger
i cannot remember if i posted this but we got into the rusty bmw and started getting the engine and trans ready to come out. we had about 6 more bolts to go when the wind changed direction and the temps dropped a bit so we put all the tools away thinking we were getting ready to get some rain from that dang hurricane. well, turned out it was nothing and already put everything away so maybe this upcomign weekend we will pull it and drop it in the not rusty car
 


sgtsandman

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alwaysFlOoReD

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ericbphoto

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In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are different.
Are you laying plywood over it?
Heavy teak planks, tongue and groove joints would be better. Weather resistant and durable. And it looks nice.
 

Uncle Gump

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Lead follow or get out of my way
That looks like it will compact down nicely.
Yeah... its a really nice mix. Im wishing i would have got another yard of it. My calculations figured out to 3.5 yards and i got 4.

Are you laying plywood over it?
I had not even considered it. Is that a thing?

I'm probably going to end up with a new off road jack sooner then later.
 

Blmpkn

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Its probably better to be self deprecating than self defecating.
Bought some bolts to hold the pulley onto my water pump in the '96, sprung for stainless. Ditched the mechanical fan so the stock bolts were now too long.. problem solved for a cool $4.05.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Yeah... its a really nice mix. Im wishing i would have got another yard of it. My calculations figured out to 3.5 yards and i got 4.



I had not even considered it. Is that a thing?

I'm probably going to end up with a new off road jack sooner then later.
If your working on your vehicle its much easier to roll a jack and put stands under. Never mind the rocks and sand that won't crawl down your neck...
 

sgtsandman

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31X10.5R15/265/65R17
I put another coat of oil on the boxes and unloaded the boxes with the camping gear. It will be a couple days before I can start cutting the steel and drilling holes.

I still need to figure out which fasterners to use, where the screw holes need to go, and what length of fastener I need. Machine screws used with a threaded insert on the inside would be stronger but wood screws would be easier. Where the angle sits and how much wood is underneath will answer the question soon enough.
 

Rick W

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97 stock, 3” on 87
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Never put off ‘til tomorrow what you can put off indefinitely
🥰 Craigslist/marketplace

IMG_2363.jpeg


2” ball heavy duty tow bar, $35.

Now I can go pick up my other 87. I’ll get underneath mine and figure out how to mount a couple of cleats, so I can bolt them on quickly and drag it home. And then I can let it go with whomever wants the thing.
 

JoshT

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I'm getting way to old for this much shovel work...

View attachment 113421

View attachment 113422

But the end is near...
I should have done that with my 24x26 carport. I'd do it now, but if I can get my shit together to build a shop then I'm going to want to relocate the carport on the property.

...or I'm going to pour a pad that size, build about a 4' block wall around it and set the carport on top to close in for my shop. The carport only has 8 foot legs, I'm going to want/need at least 12' walls.
 

Rick W

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N/A
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My credo
Never put off ‘til tomorrow what you can put off indefinitely
I should have done that with my 24x26 carport. I'd do it now, but if I can get my shit together to build a shop then I'm going to want to relocate the carport on the property.

...or I'm going to pour a pad that size, build about a 4' block wall around it and set the carport on top to close in for my shop. The carport only has 8 foot legs, I'm going to want/need at least 12' walls.
Think twice about the block/Masonary, it’s hard on opening doors and such. You can go to Home Depot and get one of those cheap augers for a drill that you use to plant flowers. Drill down about 18 inches, and put in a pipe that will overlap your Posts that you can bolt or weld. Get some regular roll sand mix, not concrete mix, and mixing some fiberglass fibers for concrete, and poured around the posts and work it down with a piece of rebar, and pour it down the center and work it in with a piece of rebar. It’ll be cheaper, easier, and probably stronger

My two cents, hope it helps
 

Rick W

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Engine Size
4.0 & 2.9
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
97 stock, 3” on 87
Total Drop
N/A
Tire Size
235/75-15
My credo
Never put off ‘til tomorrow what you can put off indefinitely
Afterthought, if you do do this and stick metal poles into the ground, get a piece of aluminum that’s the equivalent of six or 7 inches long, and a half inch thick, and 1 inch wide, and bolt it to the bottom of the buried poles with brass or stainless bolts.

Sacrificial cathode, or anode or whatever you call it, and the polls won’t rust in your lifetime.

Oh, and still paint the buried part inside and out with rustoleum, a couple full strength coats (you can use the color of your choice).
 

JoshT

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I really have no idea what you are saying.

computerized equivalent of a napkin drawing:

shop sketch of sketchy shop.png


No metal will be burried building will sit fully ontop of poured pad. Red is existing structure , typical carport structure with open sides and metal studs. Gray is wall on top of pad to raise existing structure. Rear and sides will be framed in and siding installed to match house. Brown is barn style doors, but may frame in and do smaller rollup doors instead. If barn doors, probably a smaller walk-in door on one of them. If it happens this way, it would be more redneck engineering than professional engineering.

I'm assuming that when you said "hard on opening doors" that you were referring to creating openings for them? That won't be a problem for me, as I have no intention of doing it. All concrete and masonry work will be hired out. If there is a opening in the side for a door, professionals that know what they are doing will put ut there. Said professionals will also aid in determination of concrete block wall or poured concrete wall. After that is complete I'll do remainder of framing to enclose.

It's not what I want, I want bigger and nicer. That said, it might be what I need and best option to get a workshop space on my property to do stuff in. It wouldn't be quite as deep (about 5' difference), but almost twice as wide as the space I have available at parents house now. I would be able to insulate and cool it. Long term, it would probably also end up with lean-tos built on the side for storage, possibly with some of that enclosed. FWIW, when the carport was purchased it was purchased with the boxed eave style frame with the intent of closing it in over time, then I decided I didn't like the location on property for pouring a pad, wanted more space and taller. Realistically the space would be adequate if I had additional storage for things that didn't need to be in there.
 

Rick W

Lil Big Rig
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1997 1987
Make / Model
Ranger XLT x2
Engine Type
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Engine Size
4.0 & 2.9
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
97 stock, 3” on 87
Total Drop
N/A
Tire Size
235/75-15
My credo
Never put off ‘til tomorrow what you can put off indefinitely
I really have no idea what you are saying.

computerized equivalent of a napkin drawing:

View attachment 113499

No metal will be burried building will sit fully ontop of poured pad. Red is existing structure , typical carport structure with open sides and metal studs. Gray is wall on top of pad to raise existing structure. Rear and sides will be framed in and siding installed to match house. Brown is barn style doors, but may frame in and do smaller rollup doors instead. If barn doors, probably a smaller walk-in door on one of them. If it happens this way, it would be more redneck engineering than professional engineering.

I'm assuming that when you said "hard on opening doors" that you were referring to creating openings for them? That won't be a problem for me, as I have no intention of doing it. All concrete and masonry work will be hired out. If there is a opening in the side for a door, professionals that know what they are doing will put ut there. Said professionals will also aid in determination of concrete block wall or poured concrete wall. After that is complete I'll do remainder of framing to enclose.

It's not what I want, I want bigger and nicer. That said, it might be what I need and best option to get a workshop space on my property to do stuff in. It wouldn't be quite as deep (about 5' difference), but almost twice as wide as the space I have available at parents house now. I would be able to insulate and cool it. Long term, it would probably also end up with lean-tos built on the side for storage, possibly with some of that enclosed. FWIW, when the carport was purchased it was purchased with the boxed eave style frame with the intent of closing it in over time, then I decided I didn't like the location on property for pouring a pad, wanted more space and taller. Realistically the space would be adequate if I had additional storage for things that didn't need to be in there.
I just read this. I’ll respond, I’m just swamped right now.
 

JoshT

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I just read this. I’ll respond, I’m just swamped right now.
No need. Take care of your stuff. At this point it is meerly a thought bouncing around somewhere inthat empty space between my ears. Nothing is going to happen before property gets cleared, and at this point that's still a few years off.
 

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