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What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)


ericbphoto

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1993
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Ford Ranger
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3.0 V6
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3.0L
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6"
Tire Size
35"
My credo
In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are different.
Im not an alignment guy lol. Still shouldnt be trying to steer itself lol.
A little bit of Toe in puts slight pressure on all the joints and bushings, effectively making the steering "tighter". It will respond better without wandering or sloppiness. Having the caster set properly helps the steering try to center itself.
 


sgtsandman

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Ranger XLT/FX4
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2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
Pre-2008 lift/Stock
Tire Size
31X10.5R15/265/65R17
Changed the fuel filter, engine oil and filter, transfer case fluid, and rear differential gear oil. I'm going to be visiting with Petroleumjunkie412 tomorrow, so the front axle will have to wait until Monday for the drop and mod (installing a drain plug). Then the fluids will be done. The rest will be the semi-annual preventative maintenance that happens every Spring and Fall.
 

RustyShackleford94

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A little bit of Toe in puts slight pressure on all the joints and bushings, effectively making the steering "tighter". It will respond better without wandering or sloppiness. Having the caster set properly helps the steering try to center itself.
Is the camber nut on TTB trucks the only way to set caster? The steering feels tight, it just has a decent wonder when returning to center. Might try to play with the alignment some more before i start tugging on the frame.
 

G8orFord

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4.0 SOHC S/C
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4WD
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0
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0
Tire Size
Just the right size to touch the ground.
Is the camber nut on TTB trucks the only way to set caster? The steering feels tight, it just has a decent wonder when returning to center. Might try to play with the alignment some more before i start tugging on the frame.
Give it an 1/8" to 1/4" of toe-in. If it still wanders, you've got other problems.
 

Dirtman

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It's up there.
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It's down there.
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Round.
My credo
I poop in the furnace.
I used it to transport uranium. True story...

Did you kmow you can legally just buy uranium ore? :dunno:
 

racsan

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235/70/16
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the grey-t escape
started working on my floor pans, of course drivers side hole got bigger, passenger side now has a few pinholes.
D90BB1B8-C077-4068-86BB-3639AE56E011.jpeg
3AEC097C-DDB7-4E76-B7CF-E9F791BCD08B.jpeg
 

85_Ranger4x4

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Is the camber nut on TTB trucks the only way to set caster? The steering feels tight, it just has a decent wonder when returning to center. Might try to play with the alignment some more before i start tugging on the frame.
As long as it doesn't wander indecently. :icon_thumby:
 

Dirtman

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Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Lift
It's up there.
Total Drop
It's down there.
Tire Size
Round.
My credo
I poop in the furnace.
So I discovered you should NEVER use silicone hose for a PCV line...

After 5,000 miles it's sweating oil. Did not know that was a thing. So now I gotta pull it off and replace it with rubber line. I thought silicone was more oil resistant then rubber. :dunno:

On a side note my uranium ore is real and pretty cool. It registers on a Geiger counter. I expected it would be nothing but fake rocks. I got it from work but it's 100% legal and used to calibrate equipment because I've been welding on weird drilling stuff that gets exposed to nuclear radiation so it has to be tested before welding. Maybe @PetroleumJunkie412 would know about this stuff. I was just given a hazmat briefing and told to weld stuff but if it registers above a certain level to get it out of the building for disposal lol. I didn't know drilling operations got into nuclear stuff. These are all for offshore drilling and sampling from the Navy from the very little information I was given. Maybe they are doing test samples on stuff to find lost nukes? And yes there are still a bunch of lost nukes, and lost nukes subs... :dunno:
 
Last edited:

ThatOneGuy

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Explorer is 4.0 ranger is 2.3 soon to be 4.0
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Tire Size
235/75/15
My credo
Let the universe take you where it will !!!
I installed new rocker arms on the shafts for the 4.0 build, man were the old ones worn. It's started raining here again so the number of good days I'll have to get things done will be limited, boy do I wish I had a shop. But it's so nice after nearly 4 months of no rain. I sure wish the machine shop would hurry up and say to bring the block in, but im gonna run out of cash before I have everything. On that note would it be a terrible idea to reuse a high millage oil pump, I really want the melling high volume but ya it would be the smart move I know.
 

mtnrgr

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6" Skyjacker, with 1.5" coil spacers, custom radius arms, custom traction bars
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31x10.50
My credo
Lord God is my guardian
Started it today since my surgery in August. Let it idle for 10 minutes as I checked under the hood while it was on.
 

sgtsandman

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2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
Pre-2008 lift/Stock
Tire Size
31X10.5R15/265/65R17
Dropped the front axle for the gear oil change. While it was opened, I drilled and tapped the bottom of the case for a 1/8-27 NPT plug. I think that equates to a 3/8" plug?.... I nestled it back in the depression on the bottom of the housing behind the flange for the cover and the stiffening rib for the pinion. Not impossible to hit on something but the something would have to work at it to hit it. Unfortunately, the hardware store didn't have any NPT internal wrenching plugs. So, next time I do the oil change, I'll have to remember to order a plug before hand. Any way, the axle is back up in place and filled. I just need to torque everything down and get the front suspension back together.
 

ThatOneGuy

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Vehicle Year
1983 1993
Make / Model
Ranger Explorer
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
Explorer is 4.0 ranger is 2.3 soon to be 4.0
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Tire Size
235/75/15
My credo
Let the universe take you where it will !!!
Before dinner I flat sanded the mounting flange on the gas tank, installed the pump mounting studs, drew up a better template to cut the mounting ring, and used it to cut a gasket. wire wheeled, and rust converted 1/4 of the tank. Might not be able to deal with big things right now but I got a list of small things. So I will work on those lol.
 

Roert42

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Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Dropped the front axle for the gear oil change. While it was opened, I drilled and tapped the bottom of the case for a 1/8-27 NPT plug. I think that equates to a 3/8" plug?.... I nestled it back in the depression on the bottom of the housing behind the flange for the cover and the stiffening rib for the pinion. Not impossible to hit on something but the something would have to work at it to hit it. Unfortunately, the hardware store didn't have any NPT internal wrenching plugs. So, next time I do the oil change, I'll have to remember to order a plug before hand. Any way, the axle is back up in place and filled. I just need to torque everything down and get the front suspension back together.

Pictures?
 

ericbphoto

Overlander in development
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Age
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Location
Wellford, SC
Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Engine Size
3.0L
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6"
Tire Size
35"
My credo
In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are different.

sgtsandman

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Vehicle Year
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Make / Model
Ranger XLT/FX4
Engine Size
4.0 SOHC/2.3 Ecoboost
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
Pre-2008 lift/Stock
Tire Size
31X10.5R15/265/65R17
Pictures?
I didn’t take any. I only have yesterday and today to make it road worthy again.

Much to it in the steps but step description and doing the actual work are two different things.

1. Break the half shaft nuts before you get the truck up in the air or have a big bar to wedge between the lugs to keep the hubs from spinning and have a big breaker bar. The nuts are 34mm, if I remember correctly.
2. Get the truck up on jack stands since the tires will need to come off.
3. Pull the tires.
4. Pull the brake calipers and caliper bracket.
5. Pull the rotors.
6. Use puller tool to grab the hub flange and push the half shaft stub in so as to break it free from the hub.
7. Pop the tie rod ends off.
8. Remove the retaining bolt for the upper ball joint and let the knuckle swing out of the way.
9. Pull the half shafts. You’ll need a pry bar to disengage the clips holding the shafts in the axle.
10. Place a jack or transmission jack under the axle. A transmission jack is better since it has a bigger platform to hold the axle in place.
11. Remove the drive shaft where it bolts onto the axle and swing it out of the way.
12. Remove the three bolts holding the axle in place.
13. Drop the axle enough to access the vent hose.
14. Drop the axle and roll it out from other the truck so you can work on it. The rest is like any other axle as far as changing the fluid. It takes 1 quart and 20 ounces of gear oil.
15. Installation. is the reverse.

As far as pictures for the plug. I can do that once I get the truck back together. Same with the tap and drill bit.
 

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