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What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)


ThatOneGuy

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Yesterday I partially mounted the new battery tray so I could drive the truck. Than today i went and bought her some new shoes, kinda broke the budget and wont be able to afford much else for awhile but totally worth it. Lt 235-75-15 Bf Goodrich all terrain ta ko2. Dont hate on the overspray not keeping these panels, and doors for long I have much nicer ones over got to strip and paint.
20201024_143509.jpg
20201024_143512.jpg
 
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85_Ranger4x4

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Fixed the tach and put the dash back together and topped off the tank so I have a backup as my F-150 hasn’t been behaving.
 

Jim Oaks

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Took new pictures of it, which I haven't done in years. Been working on a hood project, which is nearing completion. Had an old hood scoop which used to be on my Mustang, didn't like it holding up the wall. SO I found a way to mount it on the Rangers hood and be somewhat functional with a bunch of 1.25 holes drilled in the hood under the scoop. Then, using the ranger as a guinea pig for a later Mustang project, I cut two large slots in the hood just inside ethe style line, and mounted Mustang hood vents. It's a steel hood and was starting to rust due to it's original black color fading, so I sanded it and repainted it. Didn't turn out as good as I hoped, but it's still better than it was previously. On another calm day, I'll attempt to make it look a little better.

In the near future, maybe this weekend, will be drilling four 1.25 holes in the hood over the cai filter, then installing two small scoops over those holes. They'll be in between the style line and the fender, about four inches back from the rear of the hood bra.
I like the hood vents. :icon_thumby:
 

sgtsandman

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Inspected and lubed the brakes and rotated the tires on the 2011.
 

cbxer55

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I like the hood vents. :icon_thumby:
They're actually 2013/14 Mustang parts. Got them from American Muscle. Took about five hours to cut the holes and install them. But it's a steel hood, would've been a bit less if it was aluminum. At the location I installed them, they match the hood contour perfectly.


As I said in another post, the sole reason for doing them on the Ranger was a practice run to see if I could do it before putting a set of carbon fiber vents on my Mustang. Click the Security Check for pics of the carbon fiber parts.

 
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Ramcharger90

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Ordered a Walbro 255lph fuel pump and some new Russell -8AN fuel line and a new sending unit/pump hanger. Since the Doucheworks fuel line went bad already. So since I have to drop the tank or pull the bed to do the lines on the tank I might as well put the higher flowing pump in so I can dyno tune it I was running out of fuel with the stock ranger pump, shocker right?

Now I need to decide if I want to keep my P heads and B cam or put the stage 2 Trickflow top end kit on the ranger or put that on the Notchback. I cant decide I want a 363 stoker or a 408 stroker for the notch but that top end kit is for F/I not N/A and a powerdyne blower isn't that great in the first place but maybe with a 14lb pulley and that top end kit will work great on the ranger....
 

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Swapped the 8.8 out of the expo, it squats now
 

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97RangerXLT

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I washed it and hopefully got the last of the dirt from Attica off of the exterior... may need to do a third wash...

Still need to go through the interior and remove the dust.

I also did some repair of a crack in the bedliner, using bondo/ fiberglass cloth on the underside of it. will use some JB Weld on the top side and then slap the bedliner back in the truck this week.

AJ
 

scotts90ranger

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I washed it and hopefully got the last of the dirt from Attica off of the exterior... may need to do a third wash...

Still need to go through the interior and remove the dust.

I also did some repair of a crack in the bedliner, using bondo/ fiberglass cloth on the underside of it. will use some JB Weld on the top side and then slap the bedliner back in the truck this week.

AJ
What you are describing doing to the bedliner has a high probability of not surviving the stress of reinstalling it... Most bedliners (drop in style) are HDPE which dang near nothing sticks to... You are much better off spending under $20 on a plastic welder from harbor freight HERE that would be a near permanent fix. If you do go that route do not force the iron, the tip is copper and bends/breaks off easy (it can be rethreaded to 6mm once or twice), let it heat up and let the heat do the work, it comes with plastic filler that should be compatible. I mean what you are talking about might work, but depending on the damage it could or couldn't work...
 

Ramcharger90

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Swapped the 8.8 out of the expo, it squats now
50661


Yeah.... it will do that... until you get lowering springs for the front.... I had to use lift shackles in the back also
 

97RangerXLT

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What you are describing doing to the bedliner has a high probability of not surviving the stress of reinstalling it... Most bedliners (drop in style) are HDPE which dang near nothing sticks to... You are much better off spending under $20 on a plastic welder from harbor freight HERE that would be a near permanent fix. If you do go that route do not force the iron, the tip is copper and bends/breaks off easy (it can be rethreaded to 6mm once or twice), let it heat up and let the heat do the work, it comes with plastic filler that should be compatible. I mean what you are talking about might work, but depending on the damage it could or couldn't work...
yeah, I was afraid of that... may go and do that this weekend. the JB weld was specific to plastic. my other concern is that since the bedliner is almost 24 years old, the cracks are going to be coming more and more often. another thought is to rhino line it down the road and ditch the liner all together. for the last few months I have been driving it without the liner and I do enjoy not hearing it creak and rattle.

AJ
 

scotts90ranger

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There's normal plastic (ABS, Nylon, etc) and then there's the slick stuff that is polyurethane. It's more resilient than others, more UV stable in many cases but nothing sticks to it (unless you don't want it to stick... dang Murphy...) and resists most chemicals, but it is a thermoplastic so it's easy to weld with some heat and filler material. That kit I linked to has some stainless mesh that you can cut with scissors and sink into the plastic as well, it helps add structure.

I don't remember if my liner in the '97 is a Pendaliner or something different, it came with the thing... it seems to be pretty sturdy for only being held in with 4 screws sandwiching plastic cams behind the bedrail, I don't hear anything from it.
 

97RangerXLT

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Mine is held in by two screws right at the tailgate opening, the rest of it fits under the bed rails. what cracked it was a rim sliding around hit the front wall of it and made a nice 6 inch crack at the bottom. trying to seal that up so not as much water gets underneath it. definitely going to look at the plastic welder, but the fiberglass cloth and bondo resin is sticking pretty well, so maybe that will hold at least long enough for me to put a few hundred aside for a proper spray in/ roll on bedliner.

AJ
 
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Raptor Liner, will try to spray my Samurai this coming spring. Both inside and out.

Kits available at Amazon at reasonable price.

Ray


Edit - in keeping with the spirit of this forum my truck bed will be the first project
 


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