• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)


CamTheHedgehog

TRS 25th Anniversary
Supporting Member
ASE Certified Tech
TRS Event Participant
GMRS Radio License
Joined
Jul 24, 2023
Messages
453
Reaction score
775
Location
From Charlotte, NC; Living in Lansing, IA
Vehicle Year
2003
Make / Model
Ranger Edge
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0 SOHC
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
Torsion Bar Max Crank (Pre-2008)
Tire Size
265/75/16
My credo
Professional Dingus At Work
I installed new pads and rotors. That completes the front suspension project. New upper and lower control arms, inner and outer tie rods. Both lower ball joints and one outer tie rod end was toast after 17 years and 206,000 miles. I think they may have lasted longer if the dust boots didn't disintegrate. Now it's nice and shiny!

View attachment 120059

I need to get it aligned and acquire a new set of those flexible splash shields so the alternator and the sides of the engine doesn't get drowned when it rains.
I got rid of my rubber splash shields over a year ago since they had torn, and I’ve had no issues. That said I had trouble finding a new set for a decent price which was a decent amount of my reasoning to leave them off.
 


Bill

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
1,158
Reaction score
1,065
Location
Sacramento, CA
Vehicle Year
2007
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
I got rid of my rubber splash shields over a year ago since they had torn, and I’ve had no issues. That said I had trouble finding a new set for a decent price which was a decent amount of my reasoning to leave them off.
I had one off a few years ago. I managed drown the alternator in heavy rain. I have a 2.3L, so it is probably the position of the alternator on my engine. It looks like an aftermarket set is $26.

 

Uncle Gump

Boomers gotta Boom
TRS Event Staff
TRS Forum Moderator
Supporting Member
VAGABOND
TRS Event Participant
TRS 25th Anniversary
Joined
Sep 17, 2018
Messages
14,995
Reaction score
15,348
Location
Ottawa IL
Vehicle Year
2006/1986
Make / Model
Ranger/BroncoII
Engine Size
4.0L SOHC/2.9L
2WD / 4WD
4WD
My credo
Lead follow or get out of my way
I got rid of my rubber splash shields over a year ago since they had torn, and I’ve had no issues. That said I had trouble finding a new set for a decent price which was a decent amount of my reasoning to leave them off.
I bought a set on Amazon.

Garage-Pro Engine Splash Shield Set of 2 Compatible with 1998-2006 Ford Ranger https://a.co/d/1WY3NYL

I got them right about the time I was moving and have not seen them since. Likely in storage. After getting them I've read a couple times from others that they had bought two passenger side shields and modified one of them to fit the driver side. The driver side from the factory is rather small as shown in my link.

In the rust belt... it really does keep the salt spary out of the engine compartment.
 

ben_2_go

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2007
Messages
374
Reaction score
448
Location
Third rock from sun
Vehicle Year
2001
Make / Model
Furd
Engine Type
2.5 (4 Cylinder)
Engine Size
2.5 Scrap
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Tire Size
235-75-R15
My credo
None at all.
I had one off a few years ago. I managed drown the alternator in heavy rain. I have a 2.3L, so it is probably the position of the alternator on my engine. It looks like an aftermarket set is $26.

Thanks for posting that. Mine fell off around 15-16 years ago on my 2001. I've never had any issues with my 2.5 with auto. Never experienced belt squeal while driving in the rain or the rare snows we have here. I have been in some vicious downpours and floods half way up the doors without those splash shields in place. I could see the guys up north wanting them to keep the salt goop out of the engine bay as much as possible.
 

MT_PLS

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Aug 4, 2024
Messages
102
Reaction score
121
Location
Helena, MT
Vehicle Year
1989
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
1.5" RC leveling springs
Tire Size
235/75R15
I picked up another 2.3L a couple of months back that they seller said they had professionally rebuilt, bored .030 over, balanced ARP hardware throughout, etc. and only had ~20k miles on it. He was advertising the engine and a low mileage M50-D with transfer case for $1000. I offered $800, and he took it. The only thing that made me wary was the timing belt was off the engine and the valve cover was loose when I went to pick up the parts. He also made a comment about the head being brand new, but had lapped the valves in himself, which was another red flag.
Well, I had yesterday off thanks to my company deciding that ONLY veteran's get Veteran's Day off, so I went to my buddies shop and proceeded to pull the head off the engine. The seller wasn't kidding about the ARP hardware or the .030 overbore or the home lapping job. The intake valve on cylinder number 4 was fairly black. No other issues could be visually seen. So I drove the head to a trusted machine shop 45 miles away. He scoped it real quick and said that the intake valve was off by about a .001 or so. He is going to disassemble and check everything over and should have me a healthy head back by the end of next week.
I will then reassemble the engine and swap it for my current engine, which is sucking a quart of oil every ~500 miles thanks to bad valve seals.
It will be nice to have a healthy powerplant to go in my truck. I plan on swapping the M50-D at the same time since the shift bushings are in fantastic shape and my current M50-D has more slop than the local pig farm.
 

lil_Blue_Ford

Cut & Weld
TRS Forum Moderator
Supporting Member
V8 Engine Swap
TRS 20th Anniversary
TRS Event Participant
TRS 25th Anniversary
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
9,164
Reaction score
7,653
Location
Butler, PA, USSA
Vehicle Year
00
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
V8
Engine Size
5.0l
Transmission
Automatic
Total Drop
4”
Yesterday the fenders got temporarily bolted on the 88 and more work was done to prep it for moving. I also found like 30 stainless and brass brake line flare nuts, so that was a win, I had no idea I had lost them in the truck. There’s so many parts and pieces stuffed in that thing…
 

Curious Hound

Formerly EricBphoto
TRS Event Staff
TRS Forum Moderator
Supporting Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
TRS 20th Anniversary
VAGABOND
TRS Event Participant
GMRS Radio License
TRS 25th Anniversary
Joined
Feb 7, 2016
Messages
16,708
Reaction score
19,279
Age
60
Location
Wellford, SC
Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Engine Size
3.0L
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6"
Tire Size
35"
My credo
In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are different.
Tried to rebuild my rear brakes. Sad outcome. Passenger side went well. Driver side, something is keeping the shoes from moving in to what should be the rest position. It seems like the spreader bar is holding them apart. Because if I squeeze the bottoms together, the top separates from the mani pivot boss. If I squeeze the top together, the bottom separates and they want to go off-center. I haven't checked operation of the parking brake cable yet. If that's stuck in a partially engaged position, I guess that could cause the issue. Everything came apart fine.

Also found my axle/spring u-bolts loose. Very loose in driver side. Just a tiny bit of play on passenger side. Hosed down the nuts with PB Blaster a few times. They won't budge. I'll try again tomorrow. But it looks like I need to source new u-bolts. I had these custom made at a big truck spring shop and they were expensive.

 

SenorNoob

Well-Known Member
TRS Event Participant
TRS 25th Anniversary
Joined
Oct 24, 2012
Messages
3,176
Reaction score
1,164
Location
Middle Tennessee
Vehicle Year
1988
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
1.5" Front + 4" Rear
Tire Size
245-70-R16

Curious Hound

Formerly EricBphoto
TRS Event Staff
TRS Forum Moderator
Supporting Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
TRS 20th Anniversary
VAGABOND
TRS Event Participant
GMRS Radio License
TRS 25th Anniversary
Joined
Feb 7, 2016
Messages
16,708
Reaction score
19,279
Age
60
Location
Wellford, SC
Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Engine Size
3.0L
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6"
Tire Size
35"
My credo
In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are different.

snoranger

Professional money waster
TRS Event Staff
TRS Forum Moderator
Supporting Member
Article Contributor
RBV's on Boost
ASE Certified Tech
VAGABOND
TRS Event Participant
GMRS Radio License
TRS 25th Anniversary
Joined
Nov 25, 2007
Messages
13,387
Reaction score
14,606
Location
Jackson, NJ. And Manahawkin too.
Vehicle Year
'79,'94,'02,'23
Make / Model
All Fords
Engine Type
2.3 EcoBoost
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
My credo
I didn't ask for your life story, just answer the question!
Tried to rebuild my rear brakes. Sad outcome. Passenger side went well. Driver side, something is keeping the shoes from moving in to what should be the rest position. It seems like the spreader bar is holding them apart. Because if I squeeze the bottoms together, the top separates from the mani pivot boss. If I squeeze the top together, the bottom separates and they want to go off-center. I haven't checked operation of the parking brake cable yet. If that's stuck in a partially engaged position, I guess that could cause the issue. Everything came apart fine.

Also found my axle/spring u-bolts loose. Very loose in driver side. Just a tiny bit of play on passenger side. Hosed down the nuts with PB Blaster a few times. They won't budge. I'll try again tomorrow. But it looks like I need to source new u-bolts. I had these custom made at a big truck spring shop and they were expensive.

Your brakes aren’t partially applied… it just feels like it because you have a 3.0L.
 

scotts90ranger

Well-Known Member
RBV's on Boost
Joined
Feb 28, 2001
Messages
8,829
Reaction score
5,570
Location
Dayton Oregon
Vehicle Year
1990, 1997
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Engine Size
2.3 Turbo
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6
Tire Size
35"
While cleaning the shop I took a break and tried the key maker to make a key for the '97 Ranger and wouldn't you know it it even works! Nifty, wasn't too bad, didn't have the key for the F350 in the shop so I didn't copy it yet, maybe tomorrow...
 

Rick W

Lil Big Rig
Supporting Member
Truck of Month
TRS Event Participant
TRS 25th Anniversary
Joined
May 15, 2020
Messages
3,276
Reaction score
5,802
Age
69
Location
Atlanta
Vehicle Year
1997 1987
Make / Model
Ranger XLT x2
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0 & 2.9
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
97 stock, 3” on 87
Total Drop
N/A
Tire Size
235/75-15
My credo
Never put off ‘til tomorrow what you can put off indefinitely
Tried to rebuild my rear brakes. Sad outcome. Passenger side went well. Driver side, something is keeping the shoes from moving in to what should be the rest position. It seems like the spreader bar is holding them apart. Because if I squeeze the bottoms together, the top separates from the mani pivot boss. If I squeeze the top together, the bottom separates and they want to go off-center. I haven't checked operation of the parking brake cable yet. If that's stuck in a partially engaged position, I guess that could cause the issue. Everything came apart fine.

Also found my axle/spring u-bolts loose. Very loose in driver side. Just a tiny bit of play on passenger side. Hosed down the nuts with PB Blaster a few times. They won't budge. I'll try again tomorrow. But it looks like I need to source new u-bolts. I had these custom made at a big truck spring shop and they were expensive.

Can you slice the nuts at 1/3 and 1/3, without damaging the threads, and break them off? Then run a die over the bolts to clean up the threads, and then just use new nuts?

My first thought was to heat everything up with a torch, but for that application, I would be afraid that if you heat up the U-bolt to much, might change the strength of the U-bolt, which could have a bad result. Maybe also doublenut them.

My two cents, hope it helps. Nuts are cheap, so am I.
 
Last edited:

scotts90ranger

Well-Known Member
RBV's on Boost
Joined
Feb 28, 2001
Messages
8,829
Reaction score
5,570
Location
Dayton Oregon
Vehicle Year
1990, 1997
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Engine Size
2.3 Turbo
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6
Tire Size
35"
A little heat and PB blaster wouldn't hurt, as long as you don't go til it's bright red you shouldn't hurt the temper... On my F350 when I lowered it with F250 blocks that are like an inch or so shorter I broke one U bolt off at the edge of the nut but that was fine in my case so I just went to the store and bought one new nut :)
 

lil_Blue_Ford

Cut & Weld
TRS Forum Moderator
Supporting Member
V8 Engine Swap
TRS 20th Anniversary
TRS Event Participant
TRS 25th Anniversary
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
9,164
Reaction score
7,653
Location
Butler, PA, USSA
Vehicle Year
00
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
V8
Engine Size
5.0l
Transmission
Automatic
Total Drop
4”
Tried to rebuild my rear brakes. Sad outcome. Passenger side went well. Driver side, something is keeping the shoes from moving in to what should be the rest position. It seems like the spreader bar is holding them apart. Because if I squeeze the bottoms together, the top separates from the mani pivot boss. If I squeeze the top together, the bottom separates and they want to go off-center. I haven't checked operation of the parking brake cable yet. If that's stuck in a partially engaged position, I guess that could cause the issue. Everything came apart fine.

Also found my axle/spring u-bolts loose. Very loose in driver side. Just a tiny bit of play on passenger side. Hosed down the nuts with PB Blaster a few times. They won't budge. I'll try again tomorrow. But it looks like I need to source new u-bolts. I had these custom made at a big truck spring shop and they were expensive.

Yeah, definitely check for a sticking brake cable.

That seems a little concerning that the au bolts are loose but the nuts don’t want to move. Considering that you off-road the truck, new bolts probably aren’t a bad idea.

So far I’ve bought U-bolts from a parts store (it was a situation where I needed it yesterday), I’ve had them made at two different local spring shops, plus I’ve ordered them from ATS and Bronco Graveyard. All but the parts store ones looked like they were bent on the same machine with the same stock. Guessing there aren’t too many different U-bolt bending machines out there, lol
 

Curious Hound

Formerly EricBphoto
TRS Event Staff
TRS Forum Moderator
Supporting Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
TRS 20th Anniversary
VAGABOND
TRS Event Participant
GMRS Radio License
TRS 25th Anniversary
Joined
Feb 7, 2016
Messages
16,708
Reaction score
19,279
Age
60
Location
Wellford, SC
Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Engine Size
3.0L
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6"
Tire Size
35"
My credo
In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are different.
The parking brake cables are sliding fine. However, I believe they are the issue and it's a self-induced problem. Disconnected driver side cable and everything assembled fine.

When I built and installed my rock sliders, one of the brackets interfered slightly with parking brake cable position., kicking it out of line with the original natural path. Because of where it is and how all of it mounts to the bracket at the spring perch, that is requiring extra length on the driver side cable and not allowing it to release fully at the wheel.

So, a new project to build a new cable bracket to relocate the brake cables so they allow full movement.

I'll definitely order new u-bolts. Either the bolts have stretched or the threads are beginning to give way. And in either case, new bolts are the only proper solution.

20241116_103911.jpg


This view shows how much the cables are kicked out of alignment.
20241116_103927.jpg
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Staff online

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Latest posts

Truck of The Month


Rick W
October Truck of The Month

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

25th Anniversary Merch

Follow TRS On Instagram

25th Anniversary Sponsors

TRS-3 Ford Ranger Sponsors

Check Out The TRS Store


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Top