What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)

[Rick W]

Big news!!

The Road Ranger runs…





…and now it stops too!!

My intern came over and we did the whole step on the brakes thing. Took 15 minutes.

woo hoo

 

[97RangerXLT]

Big news!!

The Road Ranger runs…





…and now it stops too!!

My intern came over and we did the whole step on the brakes thing. Took 15 minutes.

woo hoo

send that Intern up to Indiana... got some brake issues to get through on my Ranger. looks like I am doing rear brakes as one of the wheel cylinders is leaking really bad after I replaced thge bleeder screw.

AJ

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

send that Intern up to Indiana... got some brake issues to get through on my Ranger. looks like I am doing rear brakes as one of the wheel cylinders is leaking really bad after I replaced thge bleeder screw.

AJ

That’s an afternoon project at best… get it done, lol. I swapped a whole axle in the Choptop in an afternoon/evening. That’s removing the old axle, welding the spring perches on the newly used axle, wheel bearings and seals replaced both sides, wheel cylinders, lines, brakes both sides, etc. The works. Even put a fill plug in the diff cover.

 

[Rick W]

send that Intern up to Indiana... got some brake issues to get through on my Ranger. looks like I am doing rear brakes as one of the wheel cylinders is leaking really bad after I replaced thge bleeder screw.

AJ

Hahaha,

he was my engineering and real estate intern. He’s American, but he speaks fluent Chinese. I don’t know how much help he would be for you, I love him, but he barely knew which pedal was the brake pedal.

 

[97RangerXLT]

That’s an afternoon project at best… get it done, lol. I swapped a whole axle in the Choptop in an afternoon/evening. That’s removing the old axle, welding the spring perches on the newly used axle, wheel bearings and seals replaced both sides, wheel cylinders, lines, brakes both sides, etc. The works. Even put a fill plug in the diff cover.

I think that you are correct in this. after I got the brake light switch issue squared away (just fiddled with it and moved it with my hand) I started the truck. brake pedal went straight to the floor and I have a nice huge puddle of fluid on the garage floor by the driver side rear wheel. this is the wheel that I had to replace the bleeder screw on. I think it is time to just redo the back brakes with all new hardware and wheel cylinders. Going to order a pair of 97 Aerostar 10" drums, that should get me all of the parts that I need as I have all new hardware and wheel cylinders ready.

My guess is my issue with bleeding the system will be solve with new wheel cylinders as well. @Rick W you can still send that intern up... need someone to press and hold the brake pedal!

AJ

 

[Rick W]

I think that you are correct in this. after I got the brake light switch issue squared away (just fiddled with it and moved it with my hand) I started the truck. brake pedal went straight to the floor and I have a nice huge puddle of fluid on the garage floor by the driver side rear wheel. this is the wheel that I had to replace the bleeder screw on. I think it is time to just redo the back brakes with all new hardware and wheel cylinders. Going to order a pair of 97 Aerostar 10" drums, that should get me all of the parts that I need as I have all new hardware and wheel cylinders ready.

My guess is my issue with bleeding the system will be solve with new wheel cylinders as well. @Rick W you can still send that intern up... need someone to press and hold the brake pedal!

AJ

Get a new spring set too. They’re very pretty!

Bottom one is red. Kind of Christmassy!

BTW, this was/is a temp. I also replaced the wheel cylinder, not shown in the picture, and I got some $20 brake shoes for the time being to hold me over. The good riveted ones were $80 locally. I ordered a set ($38), and I’ll put them on when I put on the electric trailer breaks on the third axle this winter.

 

[Rick W]

I got a new warning light/error code on the Road Ranger today. I’m never going to fix anything again. Every time I do, something else happens. As soon as I got the brakes bled, I got this warning light and my printer wouldn’t print upstairs. It’s an evil spirit that haunts my stuff. I haven’t checked yet, but I bet the toilet doesn’t flush in one of the guest rooms either.

The new code was for the charcoal canister solenoid valve thing. When I looked, from the canister to that solenoid is a piece of fuel hose, that’s OK. From that solenoid to the sensor, and the far side of the sensor up to the intake manifold, that’s a piece of clear vinyl tubing. It’s folded in half between the valve and the sensor, and it’s folded in half where it goes over the AC compressor. I probably did it when I fixed the AC. Before I order any parts, I’m going to replace all that vinyl tubing with real vacuum tubing and obviously eliminate the kinks.

I don’t know how I didn’t notice that vinyl tubing when I did the AC. I found a little of that in a couple other places, but I replaced it already.

What do you guys think the chances are that the thing will work after that?

 

[bobbywalter]

fiddy fiddy

 

[Rick W]

fiddy fiddy

???

 

[bobbywalter]

50/50

 

[JoshT]

I got a new warning light/error code on the Road Ranger today. I’m never going to fix anything again. Every time I do, something else happens. As soon as I got the brakes bled, I got this warning light and my printer wouldn’t print upstairs. It’s an evil spirit that haunts my stuff. I haven’t checked yet, but I bet the toilet doesn’t flush in one of the guest rooms either.

The new code was for the charcoal canister solenoid valve thing. When I looked, from the canister to that solenoid is a piece of fuel hose, that’s OK. From that solenoid to the sensor, and the far side of the sensor up to the intake manifold, that’s a piece of clear vinyl tubing. It’s folded in half between the valve and the sensor, and it’s folded in half where it goes over the AC compressor. I probably did it when I fixed the AC. Before I order any parts, I’m going to replace all that vinyl tubing with real vacuum tubing and obviously eliminate the kinks.

I don’t know how I didn’t notice that vinyl tubing when I did the AC. I found a little of that in a couple other places, but I replaced it already.

What do you guys think the chances are that the thing will work after that?

Like Bobby said, 50/50. It either will or it won't. Changing that hose for the right stuff and removing the kinks certainly won't hurt.

I had a light on the 99 a few weeks back for a massive leak in the EVAP purge valve system. I'm 90% certain that is the samevalve you are referring to even if the code is different. On mine it wasn't actually a leak or problem in the system, it was the vacuum line that actuates the purge valve. The small vacuum line that goes from the intake manifold over to the valve was broken, so the valve wouldn't actuate. Repair that line, reset the code and it's stayed gone. I'd heard of that happening to someone else is the main reason I thought to check the vacuum line. That broken line is part of what prompted me to get a smoke tester and look for vacuum leaks.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Going camping/wheeling this weekend, most of my friends left today but I have to work part day tomorrow... The '90 is loaded on the trailer and behind the F350 with the camper on it and almost all loaded at this point. I'm very anxious to try out the new front suspension on the '90, I'm sure almost doubling the radius arm length should change the handling fairly significantly...

Yesterday I even fixed the boost gauge hose at the intake spider thing, some numbnuts drilled/tapped the thing where the fitting pointed right at the fuel filter bowl (wasn't me, I swear). It was kinked over and apparently melted away... I "borrowed" a fitting from work but it wouldn't have worked out since it wasn't orifficed so the gauge would have been flappy so I did the next best thing and just drilled/tapped a new hole in a MUCH better location and put a plug (conveniently had a 1/8NPT plug in stock) in the old hole...

The clutch in the '97 is not loving live, I'm going to limp it along until after hunting season while I gather up a slave cylinder, throwout bearing and pilot bearing, if I feel spicy I might grab a bearing kit for the M5OD...

 

[901wd#2]

Shoved the 92 2wd ext cab roller I dragged from North Carolina this spring in the garage, was quickly reminded that 2.9 and 2.3 mounts are too different. Try again Tuesday.

Wasn’t ready for full assembly anyway Still need to get a new under hood harness I just wanted to get the engine off the stand and into the truck along with the transmission and transfer case out of the corner.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I think that you are correct in this. after I got the brake light switch issue squared away (just fiddled with it and moved it with my hand) I started the truck. brake pedal went straight to the floor and I have a nice huge puddle of fluid on the garage floor by the driver side rear wheel. this is the wheel that I had to replace the bleeder screw on. I think it is time to just redo the back brakes with all new hardware and wheel cylinders. Going to order a pair of 97 Aerostar 10" drums, that should get me all of the parts that I need as I have all new hardware and wheel cylinders ready.

My guess is my issue with bleeding the system will be solve with new wheel cylinders as well. @Rick W you can still send that intern up... need someone to press and hold the brake pedal!

AJ

I usually gravity bleed brakes anymore unless there’s a problem. It’s hard finding decent help…

I put grease on bleeders on new wheel cylinders and calipers (actually pull the whole bleeder, grease the threads and run it back in). Replacing bleeders is usually not a thing around here, but I try to at least keep the bleeders free until the caliper/wheel cylinder leaks/seizes. I don’t really mess around anymore, just throw all new parts on when there’s a problem, I’m tired of tearing things apart a month after I put things together to replace what I tried to cheap out on. Just not worth the hassle.

 

[Rick W]

I usually gravity bleed brakes anymore unless there’s a problem. It’s hard finding decent help…

I put grease on bleeders on new wheel cylinders and calipers (actually pull the whole bleeder, grease the threads and run it back in). Replacing bleeders is usually not a thing around here, but I try to at least keep the bleeders free until the caliper/wheel cylinder leaks/seizes. I don’t really mess around anymore, just throw all new parts on when there’s a problem, I’m tired of tearing things apart a month after I put things together to replace what I tried to cheap out on. Just not worth the hassle.

That’s why I had that picture of the pretty springs. I already had the new wheel cylinder sitting there, but it was actually the front spring that had broken and let the piston come out too far. Fortunately, I didn’t have to redo too much to swap the cylinder.

shortcuts always take too long…