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What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)




97RangerXLT

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Location
Anderson, IN
Vehicle Year
1997
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
2"
Tire Size
31"
Left it in Indiana and went to KY for a few days
 

superj

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Location
corpus christi, texas
Vehicle Year
2004
Make / Model
ranger edge
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Engine Size
182 ci of tire shredding power
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Lift
-2
Total Drop
2, so far
Tire Size
235s
My credo
drives a stick shift ranger
for sure, no leaks with new gasket on third brake light. another day of rain and no water running down the back window or wall.
 

JoshT

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Location
Macon/Fort Valley, GA
Vehicle Year
1999
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Ford
Engine Type
V8
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
"fixed" one problem and found another.

IIRC last time I posted about the truck I had rough idle and stalling problems, was throwing codes for #8 missfire, and intermitten missfire, and CMP circuit malfunction.

I swapped the new IACV out for an old one last night and the surging and stalling seems to have gone away when I drove it into work today. Idle is still rough, but it's going to be until it gets tuned due to the camshaft. I also think idle is too low, it sounds low and I can see the electrical pulsing in the lights at idle (and I'm running LED headlights), but I'm going to wait until I've got the other issues squared and/or tuned to try monkeying with idle settings.

I think I can track the missfire back to a burned spark plug wire. Had a spot where #8 wire got a little too hot, I think it might have intermittenly been hitting the header and grounding. Repositioned the wire last night, reset the codes, and they did not return today.

I think the CMP circuit malfunction was a combination between those issues and a weak alternator/battery. My scanner has a battery test function and it said weak. Need a maintenance cycle on the battery and see what happens. I think my alternator is subpar because even driving down the road with nothing turned on the system is only running about 13.5V it should be over 14V. Time will tell.

The new problem is P0455 which is "EVAP System Leak Detected (Large Leak)" according to one device. I read about this problem on some explorers (my 5.0L swap donor) being a vacuum tube from the intake to the purge valve being cracked. I suspect that this may be the case because, with the hood popped, I can hear a sucking sound that changes pitch when I move that vacuum line. Sounds like a vacuum leak which will cause the purge valve to not work properly and make it think that there is an EVAP leak. If there is a vacuum leak it could also be having an effect on my idle.

Picked up vacuum hose to fix that potential leak, but between hot engine bay and weather, it isn't getting done today.
 

ben_2_go

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Joined
Aug 24, 2007
Messages
366
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Location
Third rock from sun
Vehicle Year
2001
Make / Model
Furd
Engine Type
2.5 (4 Cylinder)
Engine Size
2.5 Scrap
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Tire Size
235-75-R15
My credo
None at all.
"fixed" one problem and found another.

IIRC last time I posted about the truck I had rough idle and stalling problems, was throwing codes for #8 missfire, and intermitten missfire, and CMP circuit malfunction.

I swapped the new IACV out for an old one last night and the surging and stalling seems to have gone away when I drove it into work today. Idle is still rough, but it's going to be until it gets tuned due to the camshaft. I also think idle is too low, it sounds low and I can see the electrical pulsing in the lights at idle (and I'm running LED headlights), but I'm going to wait until I've got the other issues squared and/or tuned to try monkeying with idle settings.

I think I can track the missfire back to a burned spark plug wire. Had a spot where #8 wire got a little too hot, I think it might have intermittenly been hitting the header and grounding. Repositioned the wire last night, reset the codes, and they did not return today.

I think the CMP circuit malfunction was a combination between those issues and a weak alternator/battery. My scanner has a battery test function and it said weak. Need a maintenance cycle on the battery and see what happens. I think my alternator is subpar because even driving down the road with nothing turned on the system is only running about 13.5V it should be over 14V. Time will tell.

The new problem is P0455 which is "EVAP System Leak Detected (Large Leak)" according to one device. I read about this problem on some explorers (my 5.0L swap donor) being a vacuum tube from the intake to the purge valve being cracked. I suspect that this may be the case because, with the hood popped, I can hear a sucking sound that changes pitch when I move that vacuum line. Sounds like a vacuum leak which will cause the purge valve to not work properly and make it think that there is an EVAP leak. If there is a vacuum leak it could also be having an effect on my idle.

Picked up vacuum hose to fix that potential leak, but between hot engine bay and weather, it isn't getting done today.
Mine was the purge valve under the hood, on the drivers inner fender, but it could be anything in the system. A bad filler tube from the tank to the fill port could be bad. I had that one too.
 

JoshT

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1999
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Ford
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Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Mine was the purge valve under the hood, on the drivers inner fender, but it could be anything in the system. A bad filler tube from the tank to the fill port could be bad. I had that one too.
I suspect that mine is actually the vacuum tube going from the intake to that valve. Read on an explorer forum where that line being bad will prevent the purge valve from doing its job and make the system think that there's a massive EVAP leak. When I wiggle that particular hose under the hood, I think that I can hear a leak changing pitch.

Refilled the tank and got a brush for the BBQ grill.
Yes. I used the Ranger to get propane and propane accessories.
That's fitting. Hank would be proud...

 

Maritime Drag Racing

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996
Location
Sydney, Nova Scotia, Canada
Vehicle Year
1987
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
V8
Engine Size
355 Chevrolet
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Lift
0
Total Drop
2" drop rear shackles
Tire Size
27 X 5 X 15 Hoosier front - 9X30 Goodyear rear(slicks)
My credo
Race it - Break it - Fix it - Repeat
One last testing session coming up this weekend and hopefully that will get all the bugs sorted out for next year. Just need to do a rear shock adjustment and change one header gasket before Friday.

20240809_155942.jpg
 

Bgunner

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Location
Western Mass.
Vehicle Year
1994
Make / Model
Ford/Ranger XLT
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Tire Size
225/70/R15
My credo
If it's not broken Don't Fix It!
Thought I had wheel bearings loose but found the upper ball joints to have play in them. Well here goes more work into The Beer Fetcher. Going to do all 4 since that is how I have always done them. A fresh start should keep that good for a while.
 

MT_PLS

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Location
Helena, MT
Vehicle Year
1989
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
1.5" RC leveling springs
Tire Size
235/75R15
Finally got my Rough Country 1.5" leveling springs installed in preparation for my alignment appointment on Friday the 13th. It's amazing how much better it rides compared to the 35 year old springs, plus it doesn't look like a stink bug now!
 

85_Ranger4x4

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Location
SW Iowa
Vehicle Year
1985
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
V8
Engine Size
5.0
Transmission
Manual
Missed the first week but had a request for the first day of preschool...

20240910_071545.jpg


20240910_072238.jpg
 

Bgunner

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Western Mass.
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1994
Make / Model
Ford/Ranger XLT
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Tire Size
225/70/R15
My credo
If it's not broken Don't Fix It!
Made an appointment for Beer Fetcher to get the ball joints replaced. It goes in Thursday morning. Yes I have the ball joint press and everything needed to do it myself but my body is just not up to it without a lift. The chances of getting into my friends shop this quick is very unlikely so I'll have a shop put them in. Here goes $400+ but having a few days not laying in bed with hip and back pain, to me, is priceless so...
 

superj

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Location
corpus christi, texas
Vehicle Year
2004
Make / Model
ranger edge
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Engine Size
182 ci of tire shredding power
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Lift
-2
Total Drop
2, so far
Tire Size
235s
My credo
drives a stick shift ranger
still like driving the ol ranger. the wife still wants me to get a gladiator but i just can't get myself to do it when the ranger is trouble free.

i have noticed lots of companies are getting mavericks to replace their larger bad gas mileage trucks. their fleets are downsizing to smaller trucks, like when the rangers were the go-to trucks for fleet use with autopart stores and other companies that don't need to pull a trailer loaded with machinery. to me, that is good news and maybe hte maverick will be as dependable as the ranger is, and since its small, like our older rangers, that will make a perfect truck to me, in the future.

i have already been looking at them for when its time to get a new truck. the 2.0 is a solid engine and its got a timing chain, not a stupid belt. the transmission has gears, not a cvt. i don't need a ladder to put stuff in the bed.
 

MaicoDoug

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462
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Location
Texas
Vehicle Year
2007
Make / Model
Ranger FX4 LVL2
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
2 inches in the back, not enough in the front
Tire Size
32x11.5x15
In a year or so those used Rangers will hit the market for sale. Just broken in.

Need to source some sway bar bushings. The current ones (4kmi / 2 years) are shot already. Cracked and split. Considering urethane. Maybe not & stick with the softer black OEM style neoprene. The 4.0 lower pan is leaking again. Can I R&R that lower oil pan gasket w/o propping the engine up does anyone know? The 10mm bolts are maxed out.
 
Last edited:

Bgunner

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1994
Make / Model
Ford/Ranger XLT
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Tire Size
225/70/R15
My credo
If it's not broken Don't Fix It!
The 4.0 pan is leaking again. Can I R&R that oil pan gasket w/o propping the engine up does anyone know? The 10mm bolts are maxed out.
No, the engine needs to lifted at a minimum. I don't know about just the gasket but many remove the front diff to to make getting the oil pan out easier. The oil pick up tube is the issue with getting the room needed.
 

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