What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)

[ben_2_go]

View attachment 114497
New -6AN PTFE braided line and fittings on. Don’t mind the sloppy paint marker, had I been thinking ahead I should have got different colored fittings to keep pressure and return lines right. I don’t really like the line with the extra braided like nylon. Looks nice and keeps the stainless braid from rubbing against stuff, but it’s a pain to work with. Nearly impossible to get fittings worked over because it makes the line a little overly thick, then you have to trim it back so it’s just the stainless braid over the brass sleeve thing (can’t think of the exact term) or you’ll never get the fitting tightened on right. Be easier to just go to a slip-on protector if needed and the regular stainless braid stuff when the rest of the coil of this stuff is gone.

I’m gonna make a protector over the fittings so the bed doesn’t accidentally get dropped on it. The pressure line coming straight out of the top of the tank is a problem. The factory uses a tight 90* fitting there, but the AN world doesn’t have anything exactly like that. I did buy a fitting that was an AN 90*, but it uses a fuel line release tool to get it off and there’s no room for that. not entirely sure the fitting will even fit. The Russell branded adapters I’ve been using actually wouldn’t fit, the threaded piece on those is a little too tall. Ended up using a Nitrous Express fitting. Speedflow 90* after that because it was about the tightest I could get. Then a Summit Racing branded 45* to the PTFE. Just used straight fittings and Russell fuel adapters at the filter. Pressure tested last night and seems to be good. Have to address a few other things before the bed goes back down though.

Use silicone spray lube to get the furrel and lines to slide together. Do not use sealant on AN or JIC fittings, it can cause leaks. They're designed to mesh in a way to not need sealing unless they're ORB style. They require an O-ring suitable for the fluid passing through the fitting. I leanred this the hard decades ago when I first started building and modifying vehicles.

 

[Jazzer]

I put ABC balancing beads in all the wheels, so next time I run it on the highway I'll find out if they really work. They're supposed to be tempered glass with a silicone coating to prevent clumping.

Since adding the ABC balancing beads, the steering wheel vibration seems smoother up to 50 mph, but is the same or worse at 65 mph.

Since my OP, I've emailed ABC Balancing Beads twice, describing the results and asking for advice. They haven't responded to either email, so I can't recommend their product based on nonexistent customer support.

-Jazzer

 

[Saddle Tramp]

Did the old oil change and tire rotation again.

 

[SenorNoob]

New radio.

 

[Bgunner]

Parts pile is thinned out. We got the Ranger into the shop about 10:30 this morning and we finally drove out about 9:15 tonight. We installed New oil pan because oil was leaking through the metal, New timing chain and gears because the timing cover was leaking anti freeze and has 162k on the clock, New water pump because the impeller on the old one was corroded and pitted, New thermostat because the cooling system wasn't getting up to temp and not pressurizing, New starter because it was not throwing out the gear properly and would grind once in a while, Added coolant flush to flush the motor and radiator/heater core because the coolant was rusty.

FYI to do an oil pan on a '94 3.0L engine you need to lift the motor or it wont come out. Had to remove the distro cap and the vacuum tree to get enough height to sneak it out.

The starter's issue, can you see it?

Yup that'll cause some grinding right there it will...

162K mile timing chain slop:

New chain slop:

A lot less slop in a new chain. Guess I need to check the timing on the engine because I timed it with a sloppy chain. I can't see it being that far off maybe a degree or two but better to know than cause issues down the line.

On the cooling system front: I only drove it from the shop to home but I was able to see it get up to operating temp and the thermostat open and cool off so at least that is working properly again. It hasn't gotten to operating temp in a long while. The thermostat didn't look stuck open so I'm thinking it was opening to soon. Maybe better fuel mileage?

I didn't hear any belt squeak this time but like I said I only ran it for a short time. I've been chasing this belt squeak since I got it seven years ago so I'm hoping it is finally gone for good now.

Beer Fetcher had an oil change somewhere around 600 miles ago but it got another one and a Wix filter. The bottom of the old oil pan was impressively clean for its milage. We did find 2 long pine needles, one in the oil pan and one in the pickup screen. Not sure how those got there but they are gone now.

Now on to little things like a clip must have broke in the passenger door because I can not unlock it with the key anymore. Things like this for small stuff. I do need to start collecting exhaust parts and trans gaskets so we can pull the trans and stop that from leaking.

I've only been collecting these parts for 4 years now but finally got them installed.

 

[SenorNoob]

Hey. 4 years is nothing. I got my lift brackets Aug 28, 2014. They are still not on the truck. Thinking about starting the project next weekend. Depending on weather of course.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Parts pile is thinned out. We got the Ranger into the shop about 10:30 this morning and we finally drove out about 9:15 tonight. We installed New oil pan because oil was leaking through the metal, New timing chain and gears because the timing cover was leaking anti freeze and has 162k on the clock, New water pump because the impeller on the old one was corroded and pitted, New thermostat because the cooling system wasn't getting up to temp and not pressurizing, New starter because it was not throwing out the gear properly and would grind once in a while, Added coolant flush to flush the motor and radiator/heater core because the coolant was rusty.

FYI to do an oil pan on a '94 3.0L engine you need to lift the motor or it wont come out. Had to remove the distro cap and the vacuum tree to get enough height to sneak it out.

The starter's issue, can you see it?

Yup that'll cause some grinding right there it will...

162K mile timing chain slop:

New chain slop:

A lot less slop in a new chain. Guess I need to check the timing on the engine because I timed it with a sloppy chain. I can't see it being that far off maybe a degree or two but better to know than cause issues down the line.

On the cooling system front: I only drove it from the shop to home but I was able to see it get up to operating temp and the thermostat open and cool off so at least that is working properly again. It hasn't gotten to operating temp in a long while. The thermostat didn't look stuck open so I'm thinking it was opening to soon. Maybe better fuel mileage?

I didn't hear any belt squeak this time but like I said I only ran it for a short time. I've been chasing this belt squeak since I got it seven years ago so I'm hoping it is finally gone for good now.

Beer Fetcher had an oil change somewhere around 600 miles ago but it got another one and a Wix filter. The bottom of the old oil pan was impressively clean for its milage. We did find 2 long pine needles, one in the oil pan and one in the pickup screen. Not sure how those got there but they are gone now.

Now on to little things like a clip must have broke in the passenger door because I can not unlock it with the key anymore. Things like this for small stuff. I do need to start collecting exhaust parts and trans gaskets so we can pull the trans and stop that from leaking.

I've only been collecting these parts for 4 years now but finally got them installed.

On the passenger door not opening with the key, push back the flap on the key slot and spray in some brake clean then WD 40 or some other oil, I'm pretty sure one of the pins is just stuck too far in, it's a thing they can do...

 

[Bgunner]

On the passenger door not opening with the key, push back the flap on the key slot and spray in some brake clean then WD 40 or some other oil, I'm pretty sure one of the pins is just stuck too far in, it's a thing they can do...

I can turn the lock just fine but I no longer feel any resistance. This makes me think that the linkage isn't connected anymore. When I got it I had to replace the locks because the keys had been lost.

 

[mikkelstuff]

Well duh! Refilled the empty coolant reservoir.

I wondered why this '02 3.0L Ranger made all this gurgling sound after a long trip and shutting down. I was thinking the radiator cap must not be holding pressure and the cooling system was boiling after shut down on these 100 F days.

While replacing the radiator cap I noticed that the radiator wasn't quite full of antifreeze/water. Then checked the reservoir only to find it totally empty. I can't remember when I last checked.

Clearly the gurgling sound was the cooling system sucking air during cool down.

 

[scotts90ranger]

I can turn the lock just fine but I no longer feel any resistance. This makes me think that the linkage isn't connected anymore. When I got it I had to replace the locks because the keys had been lost.

Oh, then yeah it's a clip , conveniently those are easy to change from outside

 

[Jazzer]

Friday I drove my '87 (demolition hauling truck) home from the job. I stopped for gas about a mile away from the job and the truck wouldn't restart. My client graciously brought a jump pack and I continued on. I figured my battery had crapped out.

Two miles from home I lost all electric and had to get a tow. At home I was reading the battery at 10.51V and and no charging. I ordered an alternator, first one came in with a locked rotor, second one was fine. Getting the old one out was a bear, the pivot mount on the bottom was seized in the alternator casting and took about four hours to get out. It was one of Ford's great ideas to have the hex end of the pivot bolt buried underneath and to the rear, and the threaded bracket arm in the accessible front.

Meanwhile, I had the battery on a slow charge and got it up to 12.54V, and reinstalled the alternator and battery. The battery now read 12.64V and the charging rate was 14.08V. We're good, right?

I started it up a couple of times that evening and again in the morning and everything looked good. Saturday morning I drove the truck with its load of about 1000lb of porcelain tile 25 miles to the landfill. Once on the scales I put it in park and the motor revved up to around 2200rpm. I shut it down and paid and it wouldn't restart. I pushed it off the scales and over to the side out of the way.

The battery read 12.54V but while cranking only read 3.56V at the starter side of the solenoid.

The folks at the landfill lent me a jump pack and it started, but revved high again. I hustled to unload but the radiator boiled over. I shut it down, refilled the radiator with water, and borrowed the jump pack again and drove home without issue.

I ordered a Ancel battery tester and Halo Air Bolt jump pack and they arrived within hours from AMZ. The battery tested bad at 30% of CA. I had another good battery charged up and that solved the start problem, but the high rev continued.

I had a spare IAC that had tested good when I put it in the parts bin, but swapping it out only brought the idle down to about 1500rpm. I soaked both IAC valve bodies in MAF cleaner even though they were squeaky clean and the plungers worked well.

I tested the red wire on the IAC connector for 12V Key ON and had it, and the black wire for ground and it was good.

I bench tested both IAC solenoids and they were both good. I assembled a valve body to a solenoid and installed it, resulting in the same 1500rpm idle.
I switched out the IAC valve body with the other one and that brought the idle down to normal.

This morning I drained and refilled the coolant so I should be done.

I just don't understand why people keep asking me "Why don't you just get a new hauling truck, Jazzer??

This coming Saturday I'm going to run a dozen donuts up to the landfill folks in my '07, they were a big help.

-Jazzer

 

[Bgunner]

My friend that helped with the truck yesterday stopped by to put eye on the truck and while we were under the hood I noticed the power steering line was in the belt and rubbing on it. Got that taken care of and now my belt squeak is back. Oh well I can live with it as long as it isn't a squeal. There isn't much left to change to get rid of the squeak. In time maybe I hit on the right thing.

 

[19Walt93]

I installed the new- not reman- a/c compressor on my Ranger. I've driven the truck 8700 miles since I built it and this makes the 3rd compressor. The first one leaked at the front seal and at the seam in the center of the case, the 2nd one leaked at the front seal and the pulley broke in two pieces and was grinding and smoking before I got home. I was disappointed to see "made in China" on the box after installing the compressor, though. My fingers are crossed.

 

[CamTheHedgehog]

This. I did this to it today.

She was riding about 1” off the bump stops, that is the back completely full of just water weight.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Use silicone spray lube to get the furrel and lines to slide together. Do not use sealant on AN or JIC fittings, it can cause leaks. They're designed to mesh in a way to not need sealing unless they're ORB style. They require an O-ring suitable for the fluid passing through the fitting. I leanred this the hard decades ago when I first started building and modifying vehicles.

Yeah, I know that. When I first got this line and couldn’t get fittings to work I went looking for answers. That’s when I was told that the extra braided lines you have to trim so it’s just the stainless braid that engages. Pain in the neck all around. Once this stuff is gone I’ll just buy the plain stainless braided, it’s easier to work with.

Since adding the ABC balancing beads, the steering wheel vibration seems smoother up to 50 mph, but is the same or worse at 65 mph.

Since my OP, I've emailed ABC Balancing Beads twice, describing the results and asking for advice. They haven't responded to either email, so I can't recommend their product based on nonexistent customer support.

-Jazzer

Never used that brand yet. I have Innovative Balancing ceramic beads in my F-150 and Choptop. F-150 set is currently in tire set #3, Choptop is on its second set of tires. Only vibration issues has been due to suspension issues and both have been up to 75. Green Ranger has glass beads currently, forget the brand, but they suck. I get vibration over 50 and it gets worse from there. About 65 is as fast as I really want to go with the vibration. These beads weren’t round though, which I think is part of the problem. My buddy got some round glass beads but we haven’t tried them yet. That may change this week tho