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What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)


ben_2_go

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Strangler AC rebuild was a success.

Big tint laws in SC but no one follows them. The 2015 Kia Soul, my ex now has, it came factory with windows tinted darker than our state allows.
 


Uncle Gump

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Pulled out the new Smittybilt Ranger console and started moddin it.

20240614_103947.jpg

20240614_104158.jpg
20240614_111224.jpg

20240614_104949.jpg


Yep... I also made myself a 20th anniversary hat just in time for the 25th anniversary. Better late then never I suppose.

The console is still in WIP...

Red LED lights to illuminate the foot wells and the inside... also two more power ports then wire it up.
 
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RangerSkellington

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On my 1999 Ford Ranger XLT, my uncle and I got the head cylinders, head gaskets, exhaust gaskets, and spark plugs bolted down.

I should have paid more attention to the head bolt years though, because I had to buy more (the longer bolts) since the ones I initially bought were the shorter bolts. Live and learn.

Going to finish the rest over the weekend.
(y)(y)
 

Rick W

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4.0 & 2.9
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Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
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97 stock, 3” on 87
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N/A
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My credo
Never put off ‘til tomorrow what you can put off indefinitely
The extra 3500# axle seals came in today, so I will be tackling the other side of the Road Ranger tomorrow morning. I don’t have any problems on the passenger side, so hopefully it’s just pull it apart, clean it, grease it, and put it back together.

Then I’m going to pull the crossmember and put the bushings in that I bought like a year ago.

My problem is the summer arrived this week, 95° today and supposed to be the same tomorrow, and it will only get worse between now and nationals. But at least the humidity is high along with the mosquitoes are hungry. It’s an acquired taste.

If you don’t hear for me tomorrow night, send somebody by to look for me under the truck and feed Lincoln….
 
Last edited:

ben_2_go

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Furd
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2.5 Scrap
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2WD
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235-75-R15
My credo
None at all.
Pulled out the new Smitty Built Ranger console and started moddin it.

View attachment 112167
View attachment 112168View attachment 112169
View attachment 112170

Yep... I also made myself a 20th anniversary hat just in time for the 25th anniversary. Better late then never I suppose.

The console is still in WIP...

Red LED lights to illuminate the foot wells and the inside... also two more power ports then wire it up.
Are those still available, and are they steel or aluminum? I could use a console when I swap out my 60/40 for the bucket van seats.
 

scotts90ranger

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4WD
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6
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35"
In my rush to order parts last week I ordered the wrong wheel bearings and somehow only ordered one shock? Now the bearings aren't showing up until Wednesday same with the shock...

That said I got the gusset added to the drivers side radius arm and got it painted and bolted back in tonight, also tightened the radius arm bolts on both sides and got the steering linkage out to prep for bending but didn't have that in me tonight...

Tomorrow I should be able to get the drivers side apart to change the outer U joint, work on the steering and hopefully get the alignment stuff done or at least close then get the springs in and the one shock in... getting close.
 

Uncle Gump

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4WD
My credo
Lead follow or get out of my way
Are those still available, and are they steel or aluminum? I could use a console when I swap out my 60/40 for the bucket van seats.
They're still available. Steel construction. Made for a Jeep Wrangler/CJ/XJ I believe.

I'm gonna throw in a disclaimer... well two of them.

First... I haven't actually fit this one into position. Because I haven't modified my 60/40 seat yet. Measurements say it gonna fit... but a pretty tight fit between the seats. The armrest pad on this console also sits about one inch lower then the factory fold down armrest. I may end up shimming it up a little with some one inch square tube. The 1st and 2nd Gen truck cab are a little narrower and I don't think this console will fit. 3rd Gen forward will fit but tight.

Second thing... I bought a Tuffy security console for my Bronco II. The quality and workmanship is far better on the Tuffy then the Smittybilt unit. However the Tuffy is about $300. I bought my Smittybilt on Amazon as a returned unit for just less then $100.
 
Last edited:

ben_2_go

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Furd
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2.5 Scrap
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Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Tire Size
235-75-R15
My credo
None at all.
They're still available. Steel construction. Made for a Jeep Wrangler/CJ/XJ I believe.

I'm gonna throw in a disclaimer... well two of them.

First... I haven't actually fit this one into position. Because I haven't modified my 60/40 seat yet. Measurements say it gonna fit... but a pretty tight fit between the seats. The armrest pad on this console also sits about one inch lower then the factory fold down armrest. I may end up shimming it up a little with some one inch square tube. The 1st and 2nd Gen truck cab are a little narrower and I don't think this console will fit. 3rd Gen forward will fit but tight.

Second thing... I bought a Tuffy security console for my Bronco II. The quality and workmanship is far better on the Tuffy then the Smittybilt unit. However the Tuffy is about $300. I bought my Smittybilt on Amazon as a returned unit for just less then $100.
Good info, thanks.
 

Uncle Gump

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My credo
Lead follow or get out of my way
So... I ended up adding two more 12v outlets... and a USB port.

20240615_101329.jpg


20240615_102638.jpg


I have four red LED lights somewhere. I sure can't find them though. I give up and ordered 4 more...

But yeah... that's a lot of outlets. With the factory three outlets that came on the truck... I now have 9. WTH do I need 9 outlets for... sheesh. To damn many gadgets these days.

I sure hate the "web" of tangled up gadget cords hanging from the dash outlets. Hoping this will help with that mess... but I have my doubts.
 

Uncle Gump

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2WD / 4WD
4WD
My credo
Lead follow or get out of my way

Rick W

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4.0 & 2.9
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4WD
Total Lift
97 stock, 3” on 87
Total Drop
N/A
Tire Size
235/75-15
My credo
Never put off ‘til tomorrow what you can put off indefinitely
So... I ended up adding two more 12v outlets... and a USB port.

View attachment 112194

View attachment 112199

I have four red LED lights somewhere. I sure can't find them though. I give up and ordered 4 more...

But yeah... that's a lot of outlets. With the factory three outlets that came on the truck... I now have 9. WTH do I need 9 outlets for... sheesh. To damn many gadgets these days.

I sure hate the "web" of tangled up gadget cords hanging from the dash outlets. Hoping this will help with that mess... but I have my doubts.
So do you have all those nine outlets on a plug that you can plug into one of the three on the dash?
 

Uncle Gump

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4.0L SOHC/2.9L
2WD / 4WD
4WD
My credo
Lead follow or get out of my way
So do you have all those nine outlets on a plug that you can plug into one of the three on the dash?
No sir...

One single fused 20amp circuit on a switch. With switch off... no power to the console.
 

Rick W

Lil Big Rig
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1997 1987
Make / Model
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4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0 & 2.9
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
97 stock, 3” on 87
Total Drop
N/A
Tire Size
235/75-15
My credo
Never put off ‘til tomorrow what you can put off indefinitely
Oh wise ones, how do you….

97 Ranger 4.0 2WD Radius arm bushing

A: I looked at the videos on line, and a guy in a professional mechanics uniform, in a very nice commercial looking shop, had great detail on how to change the bushing by completely removing the radius arm.

B: Then there was a shorter video, with a guy who looked like me in a greasy worn out T shirt, who let the pressure off the spring, removed the shock at the bottom, and then used a ratchet strap to pull the whole assembly forward so the radius arm would clear the hole.

I’m a pretty good turn wrench, but I’ve never done this before, but I’m not above cutting a corner or two (as long as I don’t scratch my Rustoleum).

Am I OK doing procedure B?

I’m good at turning wrenches, but please fill me in on the pros and cons on what to do and not to do so the spring doesn’t knock my feeble head off.

Please also let me know how this might affect my alignment…
 
Last edited:

Rick W

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1997 1987
Make / Model
Ranger XLT x2
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0 & 2.9
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
97 stock, 3” on 87
Total Drop
N/A
Tire Size
235/75-15
My credo
Never put off ‘til tomorrow what you can put off indefinitely
And just FYI, I took the wheel bearings apart on the passenger side of the Road Ranger floating axle. While there were no leaks, and everything looked pretty good, my suspicion was it was all at the last minute of its life.

When I inspected the spindle (remember this was a salvaged axle), it looked like there was surface rust where the seal would sit. No doubt that’s what killed the other side last year.

I used the oscillating sander and a drill drum sander to remove the rust, I did it until I could not feel anything catch on my fingernail if I lightly scraped it along where the seal would sit. Then I wire brushed it and used the emery paper and checked it again.

The new seal has a double lip, and is spring loaded on the inner lip (inner to the bearing housing), and both lips ride in a different place than the old seal.

I used a new bearing I found for the inside, and went in my junk pile and cleaned up three of the outside bearings and used the best one. Driver side, like 8 1/2 hours. Lessons learned and no damage, passenger side, 45 minutes.

I checked the right front wheel bearing, all was good there, driver side was new from last year

When I got this piece of junk, the transmission crossmember bushings were completely gone. No new crossmember was available. I had a 93 donors truck, rubber bushings were bad, but it wasn’t worn out and banged up like the one that came with the truck. I got some big rubber bushings and basically fabricated my own assembly a year ago, maybe two, and there was nothing wrong with that when I pulled it down today.

Here’s a question: the holes that the bolt goes through on each side were oblong, but it didn’t look like wear, it looked like they were made that way. On the passenger side, the oblong hole was a little bit hollowed out from wear. Are they supposed to be oblong holes or is that from 316,000 miles?

My options were to drill the holes bigger, but then I would’ve had to redo the entire bushing assembly and each end of the crossmember. I cut a piece of 1/8 inch flat stock in a rectangle that would cover the entire oblong whole after drilling a hole in it the exact size of the mounting bolt, so you actually had to thread the mounting bolt through that Aluminum shim. Then I used a 24 inch breaker bar to tighten the bolts, so the aluminum would extrude into the oblong hole.

BTW, this aluminum shim trick has been used before on other machinery, and while I was inspecting the crossmember is when I realized the knock I have is the radius arm bushing.

I’m going to drive it and see if that is the solution for the crossmember. After I do the radius arm bushings, if it starts rattling again, I’ll drill out the mounting flanges bigger, and use a bigger bolt, with different bushings, and a bushing sleeve.

As always, please tell me where I’m going nuts (on this item).

I also finally painted the inside of the double fenders over the rear axles.

Three things off the list, one added.
 
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