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What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)


racsan

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the grey-t escape
If only it would be cold, been a wet muddy mess, rained all day christmas eve, no rain for 2 days now raining again. Sure there could be a ton of snow but Im prepared. Winter tires on everything, 3-point blade out back for the tractor in the garage & the ranger has 4 -40 pound bags of softner salt in the back. Wasnt intended for weight, just didnt have a place to put them so let them be & tossed a heavy rubber mat on top so I could still use the bed. If I were to back in to the yard it would surely sink though.
 


RustyShackleford94

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Nothin but a whole lotta rain here
187B1A66-F450-4A74-83BD-6249D02D1469.jpeg
 

James Morse

1997 XLT 4.0L 4x4 1999 Mazda B3000 2wd
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@racsan Guys here gave me great instructions about poor heat. I had no thermostat at all in mine when I got it. Put in 190-195 thermostat w/ new gasket per instructions, to start off, and did back flushing with hot vinegar, also, reverse the heater core hoses after. Mine was under 100F before I started and after the work it was topping 130F. Measurement depends on having the engine fully warm also depends on ambient temp, but absent any specific figure, it should feel quite warm and should warm up the cab pretty quickly. I think the spec is 130-135, but the main thing is you should feel it really warm as there's a big difference between 100 and 130.

Changing the thermostat in mine didn't help that much (got like 110) and that's when I did the flush, which really worked.

Can also be other things wrong but from what you said, you have to start with the right thermostat and get the system clean. Take off radiator hose at bottom and flush the engine and radiator too. Do enough flush that you see basically clean water coming out.

Test the coolant with bulb tester after, some water remains in the system so you might want to top off with non-diluted antifreeze.

Get 5/8" hoses from store or you can use scrap garden hose if i.d. is ok. I run a piece from the core down under the truck then I can see what is coming out. Get white vinegar at the grocery store and heat it up in the microwave. I flushed reverse and forwards a couple times and I could see all kind of crap coming out.

When engine is warm it should read, I believe, almost half in the bracketed range.

There are a bunch of posts on this you can find, but I think I covered most of it there. Oh, you probably want a rubber cork so you can stop up one side of the core so you can leave the hot vinegar in there like fifteen minutes to work, then put on the hose and flush. Drain hose to under truck not necessary but really nice so stuff doesn't go all over the place.

Other really good thing to have is a hose clamp pliers, that will speed things up, the ones that have the ratchet, it makes it super easy to manipulate the clamps on/off and they don't slip off the clamps like slip joint pliers do. Also have a funnel to pour the vinegar in a short hose connected to the core.

When it's working right you should feel a noticeable difference in temp between the in side and the out side of the core, otherwise, it's not pulling heat out. Core is non-directional so flushing reverse is what you want to do... I flushed both ways... then connect them up reversed.

I also had to replace heater fan resistors as I had only high speed but that's easy to do, though I did have to replace the pigtail as connectors were shot to h. Nothing to do with the heater core, but it's nice to not have fan always on high.

If your core is clean/working and your thermostat is good you should then have heat. If not, check heater mix door operation and that valve that allows hot water to core is working. Chances are all that stuff is good on yours (we hope) and if you get the thermostat in and the core clean, I bet you'll have nice heat.

With things off you can actually hear the mix door moving, also, when running, you should feel it make a difference hot/cold in it. But first, I'd do the thermostat and good flush before worrying about anything else.

Hope that helps, and like I said there's a bunch of posts on it from the guys that gave me the good instructions that worked great.

Also, some settings of the vents cause the a/c to dry the air first, but if you put it on dash vents only I think that does not go thru a/c first. Just mentioning that as it might affect the output temp somewhat.

Other guys here know more about it... but following what they told me to do, mine works great now.

Probably you want to take off air tube when you change thermostat, might not be necessary, but makes it easier. Clean off any old Permatex-type stuff someone may have put on it. New gasket should seal fine, of course, check it for leaks... I changed that out and tested for leaks prior to doing the flush so I wouldn't waste good coolant, though, you really don't lose a whole lot in the changing of it, I think.
 
Last edited:

lil_Blue_Ford

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Got the Hayes repair manual for it.
It’s good for torque specs (if you care about that) and sopping up oil and grease and not much else :icon_rofl:
 

85_Ranger4x4

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View attachment 69807

Braved the first decent snow of the year. Truely impressed with these general grabber A/Ts i just put on. No weight in the bed in a decent little coating of slick wet snow and i never even spun a tire. Even up the hill by my house that was usually a sideways affair.
I really like mine and was happy to see our new Bronco comes with them too.
 

bobbywalter

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sawzall?
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it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
View attachment 69807

Braved the first decent snow of the year. Truely impressed with these general grabber A/Ts i just put on. No weight in the bed in a decent little coating of slick wet snow and i never even spun a tire. Even up the hill by my house that was usually a sideways affair.
Damn lucky you did not upgrade to a Briggs and Stratton under the hood....you would have wiped out for sure. 😃









I keed I kid....


The grabbers are turning out to be high value. Especially for 14 and 15 in wheels. I am looking at them for the bronco right now.
 

85_Ranger4x4

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Damn lucky you did not upgrade to a Briggs and Stratton under the hood....you would have wiped out for sure. 😃









I keed I kid....


The grabbers are turning out to be high value. Especially for 14 and 15 in wheels. I am looking at them for the bronco right now.
Happy hunting, our suppliers can't get them atm.
 

rusty ol ranger

Im a Jeep guy now.
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A legend to the old man, a hero to the child...
The grabbers are turning out to be high value. Especially for 14 and 15 in wheels. I am looking at them for the bronco right now.
There were only two decent meaty tires i found for 14's (except DOT rated side by side tires, wasnt gonna attempt that though it did cross my mind)....

kumho mud venture and the general grabbers. I thought hard about tryin the kumhos, they were about 20 cheaper a tire....but ive had bad luck running M/Ts in the snow. These generals seem to bite good in both mud and snow. If i woulda known they were as good as they are i would looked for a 16inch load E for the F250 instead of the BFG's A/Ts i put on it. Pry woulda saved a few bucks
 

bobbywalter

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sawzall?
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33-44
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it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
Muds suck on pavement.


All terrains all the way for general duty.
 

bobbywalter

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My credo
it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
Happy hunting, our suppliers can't get them atm.
Yeah ....for new in the size I need...those iron man's are all that's in stock under 800.

Junk
 

85_Ranger4x4

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Uncle Gump

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I'm fearing the 33x10.50x15's are quickly becoming a thing of the past. A couple places have removed BFG Mud terrains and Cepek Extreme Countries from their website.
 

bobbywalter

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My credo
it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
Watcha lookin for?
35s for the bronco. Coopers are real high. Might just keep 33 for now...but if I go to 513 gears gonna need 35 or 37.


The at coops 1100... Not bad. But too many projects that need the 400 bux.
 

85_Ranger4x4

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Not a Cooper fan, especially in the AT3 flavor.
 

Rowdy Fitzgerald

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There were only two decent meaty tires i found for 14's (except DOT rated side by side tires, wasnt gonna attempt that though it did cross my mind)....

kumho mud venture and the general grabbers. I thought hard about tryin the kumhos, they were about 20 cheaper a tire....but ive had bad luck running M/Ts in the snow. These generals seem to bite good in both mud and snow. If i woulda known they were as good as they are i would looked for a 16inch load E for the F250 instead of the BFG's A/Ts i put on it. Pry woulda saved a few bucks

Muds suck on pavement.


All terrains all the way for general duty.

So I have been running these on my F-350 for a year now. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Goodyear-Tires-Wrangler-Authority-A-T-All-Season-LT265-75R16-123Q-Tire/36276799

I have around 20k miles on them and they’re about half life now. I’m extremely happy with their performance, especially when aired down to 30 psi. I have drove in 3’ of snow, through ice, mud, rocks (driving up creek beds) and sand while lion hunting. The only thing that slowed them down was the ice. Even then, they did better than any other tire I have had. I just wish they made them in a 33/12.50/ r16. I highly recommend them for any truck running stock size tires.
 

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