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What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)


85_Ranger4x4

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How do you plan to limit it to 540rpm? :)

That is a neat PTO shaft though
Super neat, actually snagged a spare for my old #5 sickle mower (and the neat chaincase cover too)

And yeah, the yokes absolutely do not stay in phase... but because old play by own rules?
 


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holyford86

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repaired my power window and lock wiring, 34 years of flexing the wires and they were mostly broken, had been halfass repaired by me or had the insulation falling off of them. Spliced in about a foot of wire in each one where they pass out of the door with a wire that is supposed to be more flexible, hopefully that holds true.
 

ThatOneGuy

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I spent the last 2 days off and on cleaning the transfer case prepping it for paint. Got it painted plus the transfercase skid plate and the engine mounts
20211024_174551.jpg
20211024_174545.jpg
20211024_174541.jpg
 

1990RangerinSK

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So THAT'S what a transfer case looks like. I'm guessing the side that's visible is the front. One of these two shafts mounts to the transmission, the other to the front driveshaft. On the other side, there'd be another shaft that mounts to the rear driveshaft.

Right?
 

rubydist

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67505


This is what I have been up to the past couple weekends. Working on the tune now, then turn on the meth injection, then add the e-fan.
 

ericbphoto

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So THAT'S what a transfer case looks like. I'm guessing the side that's visible is the front. One of these two shafts mounts to the transmission, the other to the front driveshaft. On the other side, there'd be another shaft that mounts to the rear driveshaft.

Right?
KY.. that image is showing the bottom from a front angle. The shaft on the right slides onto the transmission output. The one on the left is where the splines of the front driveshaft slide in.
 

Roert42

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View attachment 67505

This is what I have been up to the past couple weekends. Working on the tune now, then turn on the meth injection, then add the e-fan.

Sweet. What did you do for the airbox?

Also, what are you using for the meth injection?

Head up, that flexible EGR tube will break if it's not strapped down to something, I used a cable clamp to tie it off so it wouldn't vibrate as much.

Do you plan on putting it on a Dino for a tune or doing it yourself while driving? What software are you using?
 

G8orFord

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Just the right size to touch the ground.
Sweet. What did you do for the airbox?

Also, what are you using for the meth injection?

Head up, that flexible EGR tube will break if it's not strapped down to something, I used a cable clamp to tie it off so it wouldn't vibrate as much.

Do you plan on putting it on a Dino for a tune or doing it yourself while driving? What software are you using?
^^^ He's right you know.
 

SCOTTY

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Dashboard Clock w/Sweep Second Hand - Fun Project !

Got tired of the phony vent in the center after 13 yrs & made the space useful by adding a clock. Came out pretty good.
The vents pop out pretty easy with a plastic spudging tool & a small screwdriver.
I bought a $3 travel alarm clock & took it apart to remove the snooze/light button & bulb. Also the alarm hand. Removed the white dial from the movement &
took it to a FedEx printing center to print the dial inverted (45¢ a copy). First I had to blacken the green dots on the dial with a fine point Sharpie & trace the edge
& center hole on an index card so they would come out white. I also had to paint the hands.
I didn't use the front trim of the clock. Instead, using a piece of scrap plastic I cut a plate using the fake vent as a template. Then I cut a hole in the plate for the clock window.
The movement mounted well with 3M mounting tape & some scrap plastic & epoxy to raise the movement so the dial would be centered up & down.
The front of the dial & movement butts up with the back of the clock window which I pressed through from the back of the plate. I went to my local hardware store &
picked up an O ring to use for trim around the clock window.

Right now its running on a AA battery & thats ok but I have a DC buck step down converter on the way & I'll give that a try so the truck can power the clock.
I also have some 12v 3mm blue LEDs on the way & I'll put 1 in & tie in to the dash light circuit. If it's too bright I'll figure something out, maybe a different resistor.
I'm not sure if the LEDs I'm getting are dimmable with the light circuit but I really never dim the gauge lights anyway.
I can't adjust the time from the front of course, but it's a quartz movement & as I mentioned the vent panel comes out fairly easy.
As for replacing the battery, let's hope the converter works out ok.
I have some improvements in mind but this will do for now. I wish I took more pics but I was too busy having fun with this !

Cheers !! View attachment 67205

View attachment 67202View attachment 67203
View attachment 67206View attachment 67208
View attachment 67210View attachment 67212View attachment 67213

Buck converter arrived over the weekend. Still waiting on the LEDs.

003 - Copy (2).JPG
004 - Copy.JPG
 

mtnrgr

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superj

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wow!! 616k is pretty dang badass.

i am trying to decide if i should keep my 99 jeep Cherokee. its got 345k and runs great but tis a spare to the spare, since we just got the ranger a few weeks back. i want to sell it so it doesn't rust away or have trouble from sitting so long but then i drive it and its such a solid old school dependable jeep.

and the ranger only has 200k so he has a long time to go
 

SCOTTY

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repaired my power window and lock wiring, 34 years of flexing the wires and they were mostly broken, had been halfass repaired by me or had the insulation falling off of them. Spliced in about a foot of wire in each one where they pass out of the door with a wire that is supposed to be more flexible, hopefully that holds true.
Strange about the wires. My '90 Ranger has FPWs as well & the wires are in great shape. As for the power locks the wiring is good also, but I had to replace the motor units & used more modern ones off an Expedition from the junk yard. The original ones were literally & funny-wise screwy. A spiral rod rode up & down little steel balls & the units were shot.
 

rubydist

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Yes, here is what it looks like now. I bought an egr valve from an 04 Mustang 3.8, which has the inlet port rotated 90 degrees so the flex tube didn't have to push on the coil pack and didn't have to have that sharp bend in it, and then I supported the flex tube as you can see. It looks like in the photo that there are wiring bundles right up against the egr line, but that is not the case. It also looks like the flex line touches the blower, but that is not the case either.

I have a Snow stage 1 meth kit - its installed but I have not turned down the activation switch enough yet that it actually comes on. Its running a max of 6psi boost right now, and I plan to have the meth come on at about 4psi. I am tuning with SCT ProRacer. I did a RPCaster kit on the 03 that I had years ago, so this is mostly copying the tune adjustments that I ended up with on that truck into this one. I had that one on the dyno, but do not plan to dyno this one. So far, I am enjoying having a little more get up and go, but am taking it pretty easy until I get the details completed.
 

holyford86

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Strange about the wires. My '90 Ranger has FPWs as well & the wires are in great shape. As for the power locks the wiring is good also, but I had to replace the motor units & used more modern ones off an Expedition from the junk yard. The original ones were literally & funny-wise screwy. A spiral rod rode up & down little steel balls & the units were shot.
The lock motors in mine still work just fine, its just the wiring, mine isn't the first one I've seen with issues in the door wiring either. What year expedition did you grab the actuators off of?
 


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