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Welp Got a New Project Given to me.


Craig0320

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My mpvi3 from hptuners will be here tomorrow and I ordered a refurbed touch screen laptop to go with it. Should have the truck running on its on this weekend. Next week I am taking it to have the exhaust put on it.
 


Craig0320

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Break it right the first time. Fix it better the next time.
Welp got it idling and off to the exhaust shop yesterday. When it gets back ima heat cycle the motor and take it out the next day break in the rings and start tuning it.
 

Craig0320

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Finally got the truck tuned the way I want. Got it shifting at 5800. With the 4l80e I'm hitting 2nd at 58 mph. 2nd pulls so much harder now. Power enrichment is set for 12.5. This truck is really fun.
 

Josh B

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Why such a high RPM ?
 

Craig0320

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That's not high for this engine. I've seen high is 6800 rpm shifts on the gen iii engines like mine and 7400 on gen vi's. It puts the engine in a happier place for the torque curve and man you can tell the difference.
 
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Josh B

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Well, when those pistons come flying through the block I just like an idea how fast they're coming at me :D

I shift mostly at or under 2500 :)
 

scotts90ranger

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The LS engines don't care, I have a friend with a turbo 6.0L in a K5 blazer, it's stock with I think the Holley computer and ebay head studs, pretty sure he's pushing like 12psi? it's a lot and he manually shifts the turbo 400 trans, don't remember what his shift light is set at but it's not low...
 

Blmpkn

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If you wanna run BIG boost on a stock LS, the key is to not have the turbos not creating a meaningful amount of boost until after wherever the motor makes its peak tq. keeps cylinder pressures down, much easier on the rods and much less likely to lift a head. Easiest done on a strip vehicle with a big converter though, which is the direction I'm going with mine.
 

Craig0320

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If you wanna run BIG boost on a stock LS, the key is to not have the turbos not creating a meaningful amount of boost until after wherever the motor makes its peak tq. keeps cylinder pressures down, much easier on the rods and much less likely to lift a head. Easiest done on a strip vehicle with a big converter though, which is the direction I'm going with mine.
Correct. I have a truck norris cam in mine on a stock converter and it is a smooth pulling down low all the way to shift point. I'm naturally aspirated right now. I have a 6.0 that is going to be my boost motor. I torque all my bolts to a torque spec and don't bother with the tty crap. I did that once and they all spec-d out withing 2-6 ftlbs difference. I torque my head bolts at 65 ftlbs and used the old head bolts. I've beat the crap out of this thing tuning it and coolant temp and oil pressure is doing great.
 

Josh B

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Correct. I have a truck norris cam in mine on a stock converter and it is a smooth pulling down low all the way to shift point. I'm naturally aspirated right now. I have a 6.0 that is going to be my boost motor. I torque all my bolts to a torque spec and don't bother with the tty crap. I did that once and they all spec-d out withing 2-6 ftlbs difference. I torque my head bolts at 65 ftlbs and used the old head bolts. I've beat the crap out of this thing tuning it and coolant temp and oil pressure is doing great.
If you were just checking inside and putting new gaskets on 4.0 heads would you still use old bolts?
 

Craig0320

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My credo
Break it right the first time. Fix it better the next time.
If you were just checking inside and putting new gaskets on 4.0 heads would you still use old bolts?
I would use new bolts on the 4.0. I don't have any experience with using the old ones. I used them on my personal ls motors because I've watched Matt from sloppy mechanics do it running 20 pounds of boost and beating the hell out of them with good results. I installed a new head gasket and new head bolts for piece of mind on my uncles stock silverado 5.3 a couple months ago when #4 exhaust valve burnt Torqued them to 65 ftlbs. I don't mind reusing head bolts on my own stuff because I will gladly tear it down if there is a problem because of them. These motors have gone in my play toys and I have beat the crap outa them. with no issues. I can tell you this is the 4th ls motor I've freshened up for myself using the old head bolts and never had a problem. But again, these are my engines that I don't mind tearing back into.
 

sgtsandman

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If you were just checking inside and putting new gaskets on 4.0 heads would you still use old bolts?
It depends. If they are torque to yield bolts, most definitely replace them. These bolts stretch to get the proper seal on the head gasket. Using them again will either result in an improper seal or they will snap. If they aren't, you could get away with it as long as the bolts are in decent shape but replacement is still the better option.
 

Craig0320

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My credo
Break it right the first time. Fix it better the next time.
Yeah I think that's why he was questioning me on using my old head bolts which are torque to yield. I've had good luck the the ls head bolts. Couldn't tell you on ford so I would just buy new ones.
 

Craig0320

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My credo
Break it right the first time. Fix it better the next time.
Got ac working yesterday. Had to change a couple parameters for my fan settings for them to kick on with the a/c. Everything working good though.
 

Craig0320

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My credo
Break it right the first time. Fix it better the next time.
I am replacing my open 3.42 diff with a 3.73 l/s 14 bolt sf 6 lug out of a 91 z71. Wms to wms is same 68 inches. I bought some 68mm spacers to be able to bolt my disc breaks to the 14 bolt. Bought a ruffstuff simple swap kit with perches and shock mounts. Gonna be way more stout rear end when I go turbo. I'm also gonna put a 3200 stall in it. The converter is around 20 pounds lighter than factory. The factory stall is around 2200.
 

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